HorsePOWA

Ho k! so!..........every always talks about their cars shifting like butter i dont get it...........

i have a 2000 formula ls1, stage 2 spec clutch, new tic adj and new slave cylinder with a b&m shifter, and a new flywheel(not lightweight) anbout 2000 to 3000 miles on these parts

and my car isnt the smoothest shifting car, its not terrible, but its sometimes hard as f to downshift into 2nd if i want to, and when i go in reverse it will often pop out of reverse which is annoying.

but as far as shifting how smooth does your cars shift and do u get any of the same issues i do....cause its kind of annoying and idk how to fix the problem......cause before with all the stock stuff it still shifted the same not the smoothest and not the worst but definitely not as good as i think it should be

opinions?

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Sounds like wear on the tranny synchros....

MrBluGruv

I haven't had any real problems yet, but occasionally at a stop, 1st gear or reverse just won't sink in and I'll have to roll from 2nd then shift back to 1st to go smoothly. Also sometimes it's like reverse hits a notch right in front of the gear where it FEELS like it's in gear, but then if you roll it'll grind for a second then pop out, so I have to continue pushing the shifter into reverse as I ease out the clutch and roll out THEN it'll sink fully into gear.

Other than that every gear requires a bit of force to synchronize and slide in gear, but it's reliable every time. It does feel notchy when I sink into gear at a near-rev-matched speed though: the most notable occasions are coming to a stop and trying to go into 2nd or 1st gear, even with the clutch depressed it slides in a lot faster than normal when synchronizing but it feels like a sort of half-grinding sensation for a split second as it sinks in.


Consequently, I've been working hard and getting much better at rev-matching all my shifts...

need2speed94

I'd say it's your synchros like SOMbitch said. Because with a short shifter and any aftermarket master/slave cylinder, shifting Should theoretically be much much easier. I'm still using the OEM GM master/slave and shifter and its a bitch shifting above 5k. And as for your reverse I'm not sure... I've heard reverse isnt synchronzied so I couldn't tell you the problem. Look into a tranny rebuild or new tranny :/ $$$

KILLER-LS1

iTrader: (18)

yep, you have trans issues. mine did the same thing. you need to rebuild the tranny to fix the reverse popping out and the hard downshifts

SM105K

iTrader: (3)

I agree. I still have the stock master, and shifter, and it is a pain in the *** to shift it about 5500 rpm. So, I am going to remedy that whole issue with a Tick MC, Mcleod RST Twin Disc, and a Hurst short throw. Should make me happy.

Fry_

this will fix your problems

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...camaro-firebird/

blackls1ta00

iTrader: (27)

and if i were you, id get the level 2 which is good up too 600ft lbs,just a precaution if you want bigger mods!

Fry_

Thats not a bad suggestion if you ever have H/C, FI, or NO2 plans. It's only another $350.

usafws6

iTrader: (10)

Twin disk clutches have no place in a street car, theres plenty of great single disks out there that will hold all the power you can throw at them and be stop and go friendly.

SM105K

iTrader: (3)

Why? I don't want a hard peddle. However, I need it to hold the power I am going to throw at it. Sounds like a win-win for me.

HorsePOWA

FRY- whered you find a stage 2 for only 350 at? link me!

only ones ive saw were around 600 to 700

Fry_

stage 1 is $999.99 stage 2 is $1349.99

I'd be happy with a stock rebuild for $350 LOL.

HorsePOWA

yea well the stock rebuild kit is only 221 if u do it yourself.

for the basic kit