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After 4.5 years, I'm getting another F-body.

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Old 12-21-2011, 04:33 AM
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Default After 4.5 years, I'm getting another F-body.

I owned a 1995 Z28 for 8 years, sold it 4.5 years ago, and I've been plotting my return ever since. I've been out of touch with the LSx modding community, so I've got a lot to learn about what is the new hotness.

The plan is to buy a 93-95 Z28 for one reason. In my area cars that are 95 or older are exempt from emission laws and only need to pass safety. Regardless of what combo I run, its going to be fueled by E85 and I figure emissions is one hassle I don't need. My first question is: What areas are most prone to rust on an F-body. These cars are coming up on 20 years old and the winters aren't exactly mild in my area. The last thing I want to do is buy a project car and find out it has cancer. I figure the front and rear foot wells and trunk/hatch area are the #1 suspects.

Question 2: I'm going to be swapping out the LT1 and in with either an LS1 or BBC. What are my options for an EFI system that would work with either an LS1 or BBC. I figure Big Stuff 3 would work, but I don't really want to drop mega bucks on an EFI since I'm going to be staying all motor.

Which brings me to another interesting point, I have almost no idea how to tune a car. The first motor I'd drop in the car would be a freshened up 5.3 with a cam and maybe new pistons to take advantage of E85 and run that before I dropped in either a 427-440LSx or a 582BBC. I rather screw that up than something considerably more expensive.

That is pretty much the plan for the car. Get it all the gear to pass safety for going 8.50's or slower and lighten it up. I'm still torn between the LSx and BBC, but the BBC might just be over kill for my goals. I'll have plenty of time to think about it while I learn how to tune.
Old 12-21-2011, 07:50 AM
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You need to figure out how much money you are going to spend first. You're talking about dropping in a BBC or big ci lsx motor but don't want to shell out for a different wiring harness. You can't count on spending 10k on an engine and then just driving around.
Old 12-21-2011, 08:15 AM
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buy a 98-02 and swap vin tags off it
Old 12-21-2011, 08:16 AM
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Ram Jet 502...not sure if it will fit but it comes with wiring harness for 10k on sale. I know it can fit in third gens, not sure about 4ths.
Old 12-21-2011, 08:29 AM
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If your going with something so fast/big why are you worried about emissions?
Old 12-21-2011, 08:44 AM
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sounds to me the op is dreaming ,i think he needs to check out how much his ideas are going to cost before he writes a full of bs post
Old 12-21-2011, 08:51 AM
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Is this for a daily driver or just for the strip? I imagine you don't need to pass emissions if your car only sees a quarter mile at a time...
Old 12-21-2011, 02:40 PM
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A weak spot for rust seems to be the wheel well lips on the rear quarters. Mine started to rust there a bit, after lots of winter road exposure. I just got done repairing that rust last summer.

Also the inside of the rear wheels wells, the floor pans and most of the underbody, and much of the engine bay all seem to be common areas of rust for winter cars. But often it's just surface rust, and can either be dealt with or ignored unless you plan to keep driving it in the winter and don't want it to get worse.
Old 12-21-2011, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by CamaroSS27
If your going with something so fast/big why are you worried about emissions?
Because I intend to drive it on the street.

Originally Posted by versz
Is this for a daily driver or just for the strip? I imagine you don't need to pass emissions if your car only sees a quarter mile at a time...
Not a daily driver, but it will see a fair amount of street time. Personally I don't see a reason to build a car like this if I can't drive it around. I've dealt with bad street manners before in my old car, they don't really bother me.

Originally Posted by BOBS99SS
sounds to me the op is dreaming ,i think he needs to check out how much his ideas are going to cost before he writes a full of bs post
I've got $19,500 in the bank and I'm expecting two checks more checks after the first of the year for an additional $26,000 creating a budget of $45,500 for the entire car. That is what I will have on hand at the start of the project, if I need to go over I'll use disposable income to finish off the project. I've waited 4 years to begin this project, I'm not in a rush to get it done. I've priced out a iron low deck block, 24* headed 582BBC at around $15,000, not including EFI or ignition.

Although I do appreciate all your help in this post in regards to the questions I asked, I can see you contribute greatly to this community with your wealth of wisdom.

Originally Posted by 777
You need to figure out how much money you are going to spend first. You're talking about dropping in a BBC or big ci lsx motor but don't want to shell out for a different wiring harness. You can't count on spending 10k on an engine and then just driving around.
See above, although I should have stated the budget in the first post. Don't get me wrong, I have no problem spending the money where it is needed. Except I don't want to throw money at the car where it isn't needed. If I can find a reasonably priced EFI that will accomplish my goals of an all motor build that can work with the LSx and BBC platforms, great. If not I'll pick a platform, build a cheap motor to learn the ropes of EFI tuning and sell it come time to build the motor I desire.

Originally Posted by RPM WS6
A weak spot for rust seems to be the wheel well lips on the rear quarters. Mine started to rust there a bit, after lots of winter road exposure. I just got done repairing that rust last summer.

Also the inside of the rear wheels wells, the floor pans and most of the underbody, and much of the engine bay all seem to be common areas of rust for winter cars. But often it's just surface rust, and can either be dealt with or ignored unless you plan to keep driving it in the winter and don't want it to get worse.
That lip; I presume you mean the little metal ledge that is created where the rear fender meets the inner lining of the rear wheel well? Its on the inside of the rear wheel, along the top radius of the wheel opening well where junk always accumulates? I actually ground those off on the last car, I ran 15x8 Telstars with 28x11.5 ET Streets and they had to go so that they wouldn't rub. I think while the cage is getting installed, I'll have the guys install the Wolfe mini tub kit and that should take care of any rear wheel well rust.

Surface rust doesn't bother me, I can sand that all off. I was planning on sanding, and shooting the bottom and engine bay when everything was off anyway. Replacing and patching metal is the area that I don't want to get into.

After I get done with the car, it won't see snow again but it will be out and about in the winter time when it's nice because I'll want to drive it.



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