After 4.5 years, I'm getting another F-body.
#1
After 4.5 years, I'm getting another F-body.
I owned a 1995 Z28 for 8 years, sold it 4.5 years ago, and I've been plotting my return ever since. I've been out of touch with the LSx modding community, so I've got a lot to learn about what is the new hotness.
The plan is to buy a 93-95 Z28 for one reason. In my area cars that are 95 or older are exempt from emission laws and only need to pass safety. Regardless of what combo I run, its going to be fueled by E85 and I figure emissions is one hassle I don't need. My first question is: What areas are most prone to rust on an F-body. These cars are coming up on 20 years old and the winters aren't exactly mild in my area. The last thing I want to do is buy a project car and find out it has cancer. I figure the front and rear foot wells and trunk/hatch area are the #1 suspects.
Question 2: I'm going to be swapping out the LT1 and in with either an LS1 or BBC. What are my options for an EFI system that would work with either an LS1 or BBC. I figure Big Stuff 3 would work, but I don't really want to drop mega bucks on an EFI since I'm going to be staying all motor.
Which brings me to another interesting point, I have almost no idea how to tune a car. The first motor I'd drop in the car would be a freshened up 5.3 with a cam and maybe new pistons to take advantage of E85 and run that before I dropped in either a 427-440LSx or a 582BBC. I rather screw that up than something considerably more expensive.
That is pretty much the plan for the car. Get it all the gear to pass safety for going 8.50's or slower and lighten it up. I'm still torn between the LSx and BBC, but the BBC might just be over kill for my goals. I'll have plenty of time to think about it while I learn how to tune.
The plan is to buy a 93-95 Z28 for one reason. In my area cars that are 95 or older are exempt from emission laws and only need to pass safety. Regardless of what combo I run, its going to be fueled by E85 and I figure emissions is one hassle I don't need. My first question is: What areas are most prone to rust on an F-body. These cars are coming up on 20 years old and the winters aren't exactly mild in my area. The last thing I want to do is buy a project car and find out it has cancer. I figure the front and rear foot wells and trunk/hatch area are the #1 suspects.
Question 2: I'm going to be swapping out the LT1 and in with either an LS1 or BBC. What are my options for an EFI system that would work with either an LS1 or BBC. I figure Big Stuff 3 would work, but I don't really want to drop mega bucks on an EFI since I'm going to be staying all motor.
Which brings me to another interesting point, I have almost no idea how to tune a car. The first motor I'd drop in the car would be a freshened up 5.3 with a cam and maybe new pistons to take advantage of E85 and run that before I dropped in either a 427-440LSx or a 582BBC. I rather screw that up than something considerably more expensive.
That is pretty much the plan for the car. Get it all the gear to pass safety for going 8.50's or slower and lighten it up. I'm still torn between the LSx and BBC, but the BBC might just be over kill for my goals. I'll have plenty of time to think about it while I learn how to tune.
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A weak spot for rust seems to be the wheel well lips on the rear quarters. Mine started to rust there a bit, after lots of winter road exposure. I just got done repairing that rust last summer.
Also the inside of the rear wheels wells, the floor pans and most of the underbody, and much of the engine bay all seem to be common areas of rust for winter cars. But often it's just surface rust, and can either be dealt with or ignored unless you plan to keep driving it in the winter and don't want it to get worse.
Also the inside of the rear wheels wells, the floor pans and most of the underbody, and much of the engine bay all seem to be common areas of rust for winter cars. But often it's just surface rust, and can either be dealt with or ignored unless you plan to keep driving it in the winter and don't want it to get worse.
#9
Although I do appreciate all your help in this post in regards to the questions I asked, I can see you contribute greatly to this community with your wealth of wisdom.
A weak spot for rust seems to be the wheel well lips on the rear quarters. Mine started to rust there a bit, after lots of winter road exposure. I just got done repairing that rust last summer.
Also the inside of the rear wheels wells, the floor pans and most of the underbody, and much of the engine bay all seem to be common areas of rust for winter cars. But often it's just surface rust, and can either be dealt with or ignored unless you plan to keep driving it in the winter and don't want it to get worse.
Also the inside of the rear wheels wells, the floor pans and most of the underbody, and much of the engine bay all seem to be common areas of rust for winter cars. But often it's just surface rust, and can either be dealt with or ignored unless you plan to keep driving it in the winter and don't want it to get worse.
Surface rust doesn't bother me, I can sand that all off. I was planning on sanding, and shooting the bottom and engine bay when everything was off anyway. Replacing and patching metal is the area that I don't want to get into.
After I get done with the car, it won't see snow again but it will be out and about in the winter time when it's nice because I'll want to drive it.