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Old 03-18-2004, 06:38 PM
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Talking Torque Converter question

Hey whats a great torque converter for a 98' trans am a4 daily driver? i have a few basic mods but nothing more. I cant figure out what converter to buy for my car thats going to give me quicker times but still can be a daily driver. also when u buy a torque converter what else do you need to buy for the trans?
Old 03-18-2004, 06:54 PM
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i am going with the tci ssf 3500...just my two cents
Old 03-18-2004, 06:54 PM
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Many will tell you anything below 3000 stall is a waste. I personally had a Yank ST3500 and drove it every day. No problems at all. It will take you a little bit to get used to but nothing extreme. You will need a external cooler, I used a B&M 24,000.

Good converters: Vig 3300, Yank SS3500, TCI 3500
Old 03-18-2004, 11:12 PM
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Is a Midwest 3700 2.5 STR converter a good converter for a daily driver who races on weekends on the street?
Old 03-18-2004, 11:21 PM
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I am in the same boat as you in this and I have read about a trillion posts on the subject. The general consesus seemes to be don't go too small, it depends on how much you race and how that affects your decision. It seems that not too many poeple here have tried too many different ones on the same car but that have, always go bigger. I finally gave up on beating my head in about it and just decide to go for the TCI SSF3500. It gets great reviews and it is one of the more reasonably priced ones. If I don't like it, I won't mind too munch cause I didn't sell the farm on it.

Just thought I'd save you some time. Look into it yourself though, just for peace of mind.
Old 03-18-2004, 11:29 PM
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3200 2.2 STR edge performance converters $500. he'll (Andre) restall it for you twice for free if you dont like the stall.
Old 03-19-2004, 12:18 PM
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ok but will a Midwest 3700 2.5 STR converter be a good converter for street driving and weekend street racing? also i can get it re-stalled so if 3700 is to high then what would be a better stall for it?
Old 03-19-2004, 12:50 PM
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so i have some mods, but i have the tci ssf3500, the bitch hits so hard (compared to lid/catback/nitto's) it took me 4 tries to get a crappy 1.80 60 spinning the nitto's @ 16psi with a good 10 second "2" gear burnout.

2.5STR = nitto's on street
and with cam/boltons = slicks at track.

i would be very scared of the tci ssf3500 on street tires no matter how good they are.

TRANSGO SHIFT KIT and for SURE a big trans cooler & possibly a deep pan. When the verter is slipping, thats alot of heat to dissapate. Key to good trans life is keeping the coolant clean and COOL.
Old 03-19-2004, 01:44 PM
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I am not a fan of the midwest converters.
I had a 3700 with a 2.5 STR, nitrous sprag etc etc etc. It costs me 670 dollars.
I pulled out my VIG 2800 and had this converter installed.
Same exact 60ft times and same exact 1/4 mile times by switching to a bigger converter. The MPH was dwn just a tad. I then put a Yank 3500 extreem in and cut my 60 ft by 2 tenths, and 1/4 mile time by 4 tenths. WAY BETTER CONVERTER.
You get what you pay for, and I believe you are looking into the midwest online somewhere.
I remember seeing it, just dont remember where. It was used for like 350 I believe.
For this price you will be impressed with the converter and 3700 will be fine for the street. Take a day or so to get used to but after that you will hardly even notice the difference. I would spend a little more and find a PI or Yank for 500-600 used and be happier.
Old 03-19-2004, 01:52 PM
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i love my ssf3500 as do most others but if i could do it again i wouldve gone at least with their 3800 2.7 model
Old 03-19-2004, 03:30 PM
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put some 3.42's in foff667, you'll realize the tci 3500 destroys nitto's on your setup. I'm guessing you run linelock/slicks at the track with your mad setup?

I would go heads but i dont like cages, and i've already got a 11 second capable car without heads any further tuning (look at my dyno, my car shifts at 6100 in 1,2), extension is like 4600.

With some tweaking (6400-6500 shifts) i think i could run that 12.0. Also i goto to 0 degrees timing on every shift. I'm not so sure i want to defeat that cause im too broke to rebuild tranny at the moment.

11's are cool, but if the dudes at the tracks are penile then they will boot your azz until you come back with a cage. I'm still working on getting a DS loop. I don't want a cage i like my car's interior as it is (got family to haul around).

2.7STR would be definite slicks time, and the apt complex guys told me to stop laying drag on their pretty driveways

maybe if my tci ssf 3500 wears out and i need to replace it will i upgrade to the 3800/2.7 but i dont really see why you need them. tci ssf 3500 is definitely more than i figured i'd get for the $500. Thats for damn sure. badass is all i can say. if it holds up to my insane city driving i'll be impressed.

anyone know how much tci charges to rebuild/upgrade a 'verter? I asked yank but as usual they never returned my call. Strange company. Hello i have $1200 to spend on a verter and crossmember, no return call.
Must be nice (yank) to have so much business you can turn away cash.
Old 03-20-2004, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by samz28
put some 3.42's in foff667, you'll realize the tci 3500 destroys nitto's on your setup. I'm guessing you run linelock/slicks at the track with your mad setup?

I would go heads but i dont like cages, and i've already got a 11 second capable car without heads any further tuning (look at my dyno, my car shifts at 6100 in 1,2), extension is like 4600.

11's are cool, but if the dudes at the tracks are penile then they will boot your azz until you come back with a cage. I'm still working on getting a DS loop. I don't want a cage i like my car's interior as it is (got family to haul around).

2.7STR would be definite slicks time, and the apt complex guys told me to stop laying drag on their pretty driveways
yah ive got a linelock for my burnouts & hoosiers out back but I still spun them a tad @ 18psi but it was the first time at the track w/ them since the LT's and converter so we were just playing with pressures a tad...I'll probably go to 3.73's or 4.10's after the heads/cam go in...I know I'll get kicked out once i start consistantly running 11's but they'll only be high 11's anyway so i can get out of it at the 1000 and still be fine...and yet be able to guesstimate what i wouldve run...besides you can get in 1 real run before you get kicked out lol...I've got the loop already and I'll be adding some other suspension soon to get it to hook up better...also the car is a pig leather, PDS, full interior, and my only weight mod is taking out the spare & jack. I just like knowing my car could kill pretty much anything I can come up to on the street
Old 03-20-2004, 08:03 AM
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yeh yeh you should hook and run 11's as is dude. I had about 30 extra lbs (mind myself being 200+lbs) no weight reduction and hit the 12.1 on 555R's. With some slicks and a 1.60 60' i'd have gotten my 11's that night but alas didn't happen.

Still gotta check my shiftpoints, 6100 is too low on each gear with 4600 SE needs to be 400-500 rpm higher imo.
Old 03-20-2004, 09:33 AM
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"Super Chevy" magazine did some "do's and don'ts" for the LS1. They recommended any 3200 stall converter and up. And anything below is a waste of money. I can't remember the name of the speed shops they polled though.




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