1stPoncho

Well I have a bone stock 98 TA auto 74K miles. Last summer the oil pressure started to dip to 25lbs when hot and under 900 RPM. So I'm planning to replace the pump. Since I have a 98 LS1 I figured I'd also do the following;

Katech rod bolts, Knock Sensors and harness, Prothane mounts, MSD wires and NGK plugs. I'll get the Cam swap gasket kit from SDPC and an oil pan gasket. All together it's about $650.

So now for the advice. Have I thought of everything? I know there is a ton of other things I should also do while I'm doing this. Problem is I have a tight budget because I'm saving for Power Tour. If I do come up with some extra cash should I get a cam or exhaust? I'm leaning toward the exhaust only because the cam will be sort of a waste without and I can't do both. I'd also like to get LCAs, PBR and SFCs. So what you think? The above and cam, headers, or suspension?

Thanks in advance.

justin hover

You'll always want to complete a full exhaust setup. So you'll want a lid,
ls6 intake, headers, catback, and a stall converter before you cam it. Those are a few. You should most definetly wait for the poly mounts and plugs and wires for when headers go in. If you don't plan on headers for awhile do not even consider the M mounts.

zracer323

iTrader: (12)

I would do the cam now if you plan on doing the exhaust later since you are already working on the engine. I would also wait and do the motor mounts when you do your exhaust. It's not the ideal order to mod but it would work.

justin hover

Hmmm...I thought I read a cam before a stall AND exhaust is defeating the purpose of a cam.

1stPoncho

I'm planning on doing to mounts because I'll be pulling the motor. I know that may seam crazy to some of you guys. As for 98 specific upgrades, did I get everything but the ls6 intake? I'm more concerned with doing the most I can now to support later upgrades. Which would mean exhaust and intake before cam. Would one of the cheaper stalls be worth it, or should I wait on that? Not building a race car.

garygnu

the cam swap kit include a new timing chain ?check and compare the prices with TSP also.skip the msd plug wires if the old measure ok .

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

It makes the most sense to do the oil pump when you do the cam swap. I think people get too hung up on idle oil pressure, and also sometimes replace pumps when it's just a simple sending unit issue. Either way, I would do these two things at the same time to save some money/time on labor.

You'll really want to do the exhaust before the cam, for best results. And unless it's going to be a baby cam (like an LS6), you'll want to do the stall first as well. Even with the stock cam (or small cam) you'd see a huge performance increase with a 3500+ stall.

My recommendation would be to do headers/exhaust and stall now (or separately if your budget is limited), and then cam/oil pump/rod bolts/etc. later.

I would not worry about your oil pump unless you are seeing poor pressure at higher rpms. 25psi when the engine is hot, in hot weather, with the stock 550rpm in-gear idle of an A4 car is pretty normal for the '98-'00 pumps (especially under load - like having the A/C on).

pnykillerz28ls1

iTrader: (1)

i agree with RPM WS6 my oil psi does the same thing at idle never worried me cause it would always go to 40 when i hit the gas. hate to see you go through all that work to have the same thing happen

Camaro Z28

Im going to be straight up I would Cam it before doing exhaust or suspension. Specially if you want to build a strong engine. Thats what I did with my 2000 Camaro Z28

NY02ws6

Stall before cam? Isn't the stall supposed to be matched to the powerband of the cam?

USMC5811

iTrader: (2)

IMO its pointless to cam a car without the supporting mods....your going to need a tune after your cam swap, and then again after full exhaust, intake, etc to get the most out of your cam. Factory setup is going to choke your cam to death so im not sure what the point of camming first is.....

USMC5811

iTrader: (2)

Also i'd look into TSP's cam packages, recommended parts are LS2 timing chain, LS6 oil pump, new pushrods, springs. You'll also need new gaskets as well and head bolts if you plan on pulling the heads along with a valve spring compressor.

justin hover

kinda like using an air compressor with a pin size attachment at the end. All that power choked up...

S8ER95Z

iTrader: (3)

That's the order I went with... but then again my cam didn't require tuning.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Most people do a stall before the cam, because even the stock cam will work great with a 3500-4000rpm stall speed. Most aftermarket street cams will have a power band that will also work very well within this stall range.

If you are planning on a big donky dick cam with hero horsepower numbers at 7k rpm and nothing to offer in the mid range, then you might want to look at stalls in the 4000-4500 range for best track performance, but some people don't like the road feel of such a large converter in a street car. Some people may also not like the power band of a cam that would need a 4500+ stall, for their street car.

If you are building a race car, then the approch would be different.

smokeshow72

I would buy a replacement GM timing set, GM Iridium plugs, a set of good looking wires from the junkyard, and headers. If you are going to take the engine out of the car, put the headers on before you put the motor back in and save yourself a huge pain in the *****; go out the bottom with it and you'll be a happy man:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/chevrolet...28-i-hope.html