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#3
Captain Double Post
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i never did them and i did them on my car, take your time, get all the parts and tools you need follow a good write up and you will be fine, helps to have a buddy and some beer to help , there are alot o good write ups on tech just search ,if you have any issues just ask on tech
#4
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What the others have said and one word of caution: depending on the age of your car and the mileage, you really should do motor mounts at the same time, makes it a lot easier BUT motor mounts are a royal pain and not really something I would wish on my worst enemy, if you have an f-body friend that can help you go for it, but I promise you its a miserable experience, I would have to say the worst f-body job of all, IMHO.
#7
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you can do it on jack stands... follow this thread below, it has alot of pictures so you can follow easily.. especially if its your first time.. and yes I would do Poly motor mounts while your down there ($50) extra..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...otsa-pics.html
Its a great way to get to know your camaro lol and maybe beat on it a little lmao...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...otsa-pics.html
Its a great way to get to know your camaro lol and maybe beat on it a little lmao...
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#10
Launching!
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Bro a paiin your very first time took me ******* forever. Its easy time consumer. Make sure you got all types of swivels and lots of extenstions. removal of the stock Ypipe coat the **** out of the bolt some type of lub before you start wrenhing you'll probably break half of them in the process. The driver side is the easyiest it goes in just fine. The passenger however takes a few cuss words broken knuckles to get in. Passenger side remove all spark plug wires and remove the coil bracket bolts. Take coils and bracket off as one. I remember the last bolt in the bACK on the bracket is a son of a bitch to get, remove egr tube and put aside towards the driver side. I remember I had to remove a coolent tube that goes through the fire wall in order to remove that last bracket bolt. Some plyers and alittle tugging will get that tube removed. After that stock manifold comes off. The passenger side header is pain in the *** to go in up just alittle tetris and some leverage will get it up there. After that some patience threading the bolts and getting them tighting down will do it, I had to tighting the last header bolt in the far back from the bottom using nice set of craftsmans swivels and few extentions. Before the job order OEM Gaskets!!!! I didnt do that so I just used stock orginal gaskets which worked just fine no leaks, and the orginal bolts. If I was you, I just use orginal bolts, and dont cross thread them be patient.
#11
If you dont have any basic mechanical knowledge i wouldent do it but if you do have some knowledge its not hard at all. And like stated above the passanger side is a bitch, i ended up using a pole to put on the back plug wire from the bottom haha
#12
TECH Enthusiast
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Bro a paiin your very first time took me ******* forever. Its easy time consumer. Make sure you got all types of swivels and lots of extenstions. removal of the stock Ypipe coat the **** out of the bolt some type of lub before you start wrenhing you'll probably break half of them in the process. The driver side is the easyiest it goes in just fine. The passenger however takes a few cuss words broken knuckles to get in. Passenger side remove all spark plug wires and remove the coil bracket bolts. Take coils and bracket off as one. I remember the last bolt in the bACK on the bracket is a son of a bitch to get, remove egr tube and put aside towards the driver side. I remember I had to remove a coolent tube that goes through the fire wall in order to remove that last bracket bolt. Some plyers and alittle tugging will get that tube removed. After that stock manifold comes off. The passenger side header is pain in the *** to go in up just alittle tetris and some leverage will get it up there. After that some patience threading the bolts and getting them tighting down will do it, I had to tighting the last header bolt in the far back from the bottom using nice set of craftsmans swivels and few extentions. Before the job order OEM Gaskets!!!! I didnt do that so I just used stock orginal gaskets which worked just fine no leaks, and the orginal bolts. If I was you, I just use orginal bolts, and dont cross thread them be patient.
#13
TECH Addict
iTrader: (57)
Funny you mentioned that, I am installing my TSP long tubes now and am about done up top all but the last plug wire on pass side is waitng to be hooked up. If memory serves, I hook the wire to the plug then to the coil while the coil pack is loose off the valve cover.That way I have more clearance back there to get my big *** mitt in there once both ends are hooked up I bolt the coil pack down. That is one of the worse parts of the job, not including motor mounts.
#14
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I just installed my Pacesetters today by myself and it wasn't that bad, I used Jackstands but the worse part was the driver side header did'nt wanna go in but I hammered the bottom of the car a little bit and it went through, I 100% recommend that you have somebody else to help you cause It will take you all day, specially needing tools and when you need to hold the header and the gasket to slide the bolt in that was frustrating!!! but I got it done though!!!!
#15
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I just installed my Pacesetters today by myself and it wasn't that bad, I used Jackstands but the worse part was the driver side header did'nt wanna go in but I hammered the bottom of the car a little bit and it went through, I 100% recommend that you have somebody else to help you cause It will take you all day, specially needing tools and when you need to hold the header and the gasket to slide the bolt in that was frustrating!!! but I got it done though!!!!
#17
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I did that and I also took a little off of the top side of the motor mount pedestal to get mine in on the drivers side.
To get the passenger side in, I had to raise the back end of the car to get the right angle, but it went in smooth after.
My car is running pretty rich now. I need to get a Frost tune when I get more cash.
#19
I think it is around $150...http://www.tunedbyfrost.com/
Mine ran rich also, until I sent it to Frost. It was worth every penny to have the tune done. I have an automatic and Frost made that thing fun to drive!!
Oh, and I did mine on jack stand also. Just follow the instructions in the thread mentioned above. My car had around 29,000 miles on it when I did tham and I had a motor mount starting to tear a little. I am glad I listened to the advice here and did the mount too.
Again the motor mounts were a pain in the butt, however I was not in a hurry and took my time and got them.
I also had to shave a little off the tab on the block for the drivers side header to slide in...
Don
Mine ran rich also, until I sent it to Frost. It was worth every penny to have the tune done. I have an automatic and Frost made that thing fun to drive!!
Oh, and I did mine on jack stand also. Just follow the instructions in the thread mentioned above. My car had around 29,000 miles on it when I did tham and I had a motor mount starting to tear a little. I am glad I listened to the advice here and did the mount too.
Again the motor mounts were a pain in the butt, however I was not in a hurry and took my time and got them.
I also had to shave a little off the tab on the block for the drivers side header to slide in...
Don
#20
A little late...
I'm 17 and I just got done a week ago.. I even blocked the egr off. But I have done them before on my friends z28. I waited for a week or soo (waiting on parts) and i'm not really patient but i pulled through..
I'm 17 and I just got done a week ago.. I even blocked the egr off. But I have done them before on my friends z28. I waited for a week or soo (waiting on parts) and i'm not really patient but i pulled through..