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EPS 230/238 cam; what do I need?

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Old 03-11-2012, 11:19 PM
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Default EPS 230/238 cam; what do I need?

Hello all, I just purchased an EPS 230/238 cam with dual springs, my question is do I have to do anything else internally or is this cam alright for my motor to handle with ease? My mods are as follows:


EPS 230/238 cam with dual springs
SLP Double Roller Chain with SLP oil pump
SLP lid
LS6 intake
Ported/Polished TB
Pacesetter LT
Exhaust? (unsure at this point)
4.10 Motive Gears
Granatellie SFC's
MGW short shifter

Thanks everyone!
Old 03-11-2012, 11:21 PM
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The exact specs are .230/.238 lift is .353 and separation is 113.
Old 03-12-2012, 12:02 AM
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I did not see pushrods on the list those would def be needed

Last edited by AMS13; 03-12-2012 at 12:12 AM.
Old 03-12-2012, 12:20 AM
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- 1 Piece Chromemoly Pushrods (Specify Length)

Sorry I just pasted that from the EPS web site, they come with my package. But what about injectors? I've read quite a bit about this cam, and it seems like a lot of people run it in a DD without many problems.
Old 03-12-2012, 01:30 AM
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i would get some 36lb injectors my cam only setup ran out of fuel with the stock injectors i would also do a 255 fuel pump too!
Old 03-12-2012, 01:38 AM
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What injectors, like brand wise? Something not too pricey, but nothing crappy. Would you have any idea on how much power I'd be making?
Old 03-12-2012, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 94zGreen
Hello all, I just purchased an EPS 230/238 cam with dual springs, my question is do I have to do anything else internally or is this cam alright for my motor to handle with ease? My mods are as follows:


EPS 230/238 cam with dual springs
SLP Double Roller Chain with SLP oil pump
SLP lid
LS6 intake
Ported/Polished TB
Pacesetter LT
Exhaust? (unsure at this point)
4.10 Motive Gears
Granatellie SFC's
MGW short shifter

Thanks everyone!
Buy a degree wheel and degree/verify the cam once installed. You "should" always check Piston to Valve Clearance but your not having the heads milled or anything but its "good form".

If your doing your own work, you will need some aluminum dowel rods and a extraction/intall tool for the crank pulley. DO NOT reuse or even buy a longer bolt to put it back on. Search in GEN III motor section about the tool, you can make an install tool with a threaded rod and some nuts, bolts, and washers.

Technically you wont know if you "need" injectors until you dynotune it and at that time you may find out that there is still more left in it. If the car makes high 300's you should be fine but the rating on '98 injectors are lower then 2002's. So in the end if you do injectors, throw in there a 255 LPH fuel pump (w/ hotwire kit). Some go to green top 40's and "tune" them down. So if you do it, the car immediately goes to the dyno.

Misc- Blue Loctite for the timing chain/cam bolts to make sure they dont fall out. Most people break their oil pressure sensor removing the intake (for the record, I have not, removed it 4-5 times) but having an extra would not hurt.

Reuse the stocker or buy a GM header gasket.

New plugs and wires.

New clutch and a Tick Performance Master. 2002+ newer slave.

Cam swaps are not cheap but this should get you in the right direction!
Old 03-12-2012, 10:25 AM
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I have the extraction tool, loctite and things of that nature. But thank you that definitely clears up a lot of the questions that I was having!
Old 03-12-2012, 11:39 AM
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Looks similar to my cam.

Granted I did some mildly touched heads too, but I was out of injector by under 4500rpm as far as "safe zone".

I got used GM injectors from the supercharged Buicks. They are 41.5# at our pressure.
Old 03-12-2012, 12:05 PM
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Interesting.. So definitely some 40 # injectors? Also, how much power did you make?
Old 03-12-2012, 01:09 PM
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You would be ok with some 34-36#, I just got these because they were affordable.

Didn't dyno the car, but online calculators using weight and track information give it a range of 395-415rwhp. Not bad for a stalled auto with an extremely heavy driveshaft and a 12 bolt.
Old 03-12-2012, 01:44 PM
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No that doesn't sound too bad at all! I'm having trouble finding dyno numbers for this cam, that's why I asked. I just looked at the ws6 store for injectors, does it matter what type of fuel pump? Or are they all pretty good?
Old 03-12-2012, 01:49 PM
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Just make sure you plan for the tune as well. Will definitely need a tune to optimize the setup.
Old 03-12-2012, 02:36 PM
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Yeah, I have a few months to collect paychecks, I really don't have any bills. Just buying car parts, but it looks like a have a few things to add to the list..
Old 03-12-2012, 02:59 PM
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$450 is the running price for Dyno tune, maybe less if the guy cuts a deal but your in that range.
Old 03-12-2012, 03:07 PM
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lift is a 353?!
Old 03-12-2012, 09:21 PM
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it says gross valve lift .600 (intake) .603 (exhaust) and the lobe lift is .353 and lobe separation is 113.

How big of a bitch is it to do a cam? I mean, I know it'll be a pain, but is it extremely difficult?
Old 03-12-2012, 09:34 PM
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you can go to ls1howto.com for instructions and pics.you check the injection connection for good prices on injectors.going with some bigger injectors, 36+ would be a good idea if you ever decide to add some ported heads .
Old 03-12-2012, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 94zGreen
it says gross valve lift .600 (intake) .603 (exhaust) and the lobe lift is .353 and lobe separation is 113.

How big of a bitch is it to do a cam? I mean, I know it'll be a pain, but is it extremely difficult?
Its not that hard, a lil tricky to get to the oil pickup tube bolt loosen all the oil pan bolts & its easier. I predict your back will be sore after changing all the valvesprings.
Old 03-12-2012, 09:57 PM
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I have the link to the ls1howto saved, and the valve springs seem like they are a bigger pain in the *** lol. Do you guys have any thoughts of how much power I might put out?


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