How would this setup do at the track?
03-22-2004, 10:59 PM
#1
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How would this setup do at the track? My car is quite a freak..i think...the previous owner that dyno'd it pulled off 354rwhp/361rwtq...
only mods are the SLP Flow Pac, SLP Y-Pipe, and SLP LM
what i watn to d...or was considering was to get
3500 Stall TC-
Torque Thrust II's-polished....17x9.5 up front (275/40) and 17x11 out back (315/35) wrapped in drags-
Eibach Pro-Kit-
BMR SFC-
and all that other good junk ill need for a lowering and transmission...
i was wondering...if i did get the 3500 stall and lowered it...would it be as good....not as good....or BETTER then the stock...i kno the center of gravity affects the 60' foot times...and lowering it centers the weight more so theres less weight transfer...but i thought wiht the TC it would make up for it and possibly knock it down...if that makes sense....would it just be better to leave it stock height...get the 3500....or drop it...get what i stated....and try to fgure a way to mod the engine more...(LEGALLY) lol like P&P TB...and ssmall stuff liek that?
what do you all think this is a pretty big concern to me
only mods are the SLP Flow Pac, SLP Y-Pipe, and SLP LM
what i watn to d...or was considering was to get
3500 Stall TC-
Torque Thrust II's-polished....17x9.5 up front (275/40) and 17x11 out back (315/35) wrapped in drags-
Eibach Pro-Kit-
BMR SFC-
and all that other good junk ill need for a lowering and transmission...
i was wondering...if i did get the 3500 stall and lowered it...would it be as good....not as good....or BETTER then the stock...i kno the center of gravity affects the 60' foot times...and lowering it centers the weight more so theres less weight transfer...but i thought wiht the TC it would make up for it and possibly knock it down...if that makes sense....would it just be better to leave it stock height...get the 3500....or drop it...get what i stated....and try to fgure a way to mod the engine more...(LEGALLY) lol like P&P TB...and ssmall stuff liek that?
what do you all think this is a pretty big concern to me
03-23-2004, 07:05 AM
#3
If you lower your car you will need the relocation brackets to reset the pinion angle . It seems alot of 02 cars are freaks. with 354 rwhp and that converter you should be able to go high 11`s on a drag radial.
Originally Posted by 02WS6Bird
My car is quite a freak..i think...the previous owner that dyno'd it pulled off 354rwhp/361rwtq...
only mods are the SLP Flow Pac, SLP Y-Pipe, and SLP LM
what i watn to d...or was considering was to get
3500 Stall TC-
Torque Thrust II's-polished....17x9.5 up front (275/40) and 17x11 out back (315/35) wrapped in drags-
Eibach Pro-Kit-
BMR SFC-
and all that other good junk ill need for a lowering and transmission...
i was wondering...if i did get the 3500 stall and lowered it...would it be as good....not as good....or BETTER then the stock...i kno the center of gravity affects the 60' foot times...and lowering it centers the weight more so theres less weight transfer...but i thought wiht the TC it would make up for it and possibly knock it down...if that makes sense....would it just be better to leave it stock height...get the 3500....or drop it...get what i stated....and try to fgure a way to mod the engine more...(LEGALLY) lol like P&P TB...and ssmall stuff liek that?
what do you all think this is a pretty big concern to me
only mods are the SLP Flow Pac, SLP Y-Pipe, and SLP LM
what i watn to d...or was considering was to get
3500 Stall TC-
Torque Thrust II's-polished....17x9.5 up front (275/40) and 17x11 out back (315/35) wrapped in drags-
Eibach Pro-Kit-
BMR SFC-
and all that other good junk ill need for a lowering and transmission...
i was wondering...if i did get the 3500 stall and lowered it...would it be as good....not as good....or BETTER then the stock...i kno the center of gravity affects the 60' foot times...and lowering it centers the weight more so theres less weight transfer...but i thought wiht the TC it would make up for it and possibly knock it down...if that makes sense....would it just be better to leave it stock height...get the 3500....or drop it...get what i stated....and try to fgure a way to mod the engine more...(LEGALLY) lol like P&P TB...and ssmall stuff liek that?
what do you all think this is a pretty big concern to me
03-23-2004, 09:33 AM
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i'm guessing your racweight would be at least 3500# if not more. So IF you get it to hook with the new converter, and if you add headers to your list I would say on a decent day you could see a mid 12.
Lynda
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03-23-2004, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by CamaroCain
i'm guessing your racweight would be at least 3500# if not more. So IF you get it to hook with the new converter, and if you add headers to your list I would say on a decent day you could see a mid 12.
Lynda
Lynda
03-23-2004, 11:40 AM
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i was looking at....BfGoodrich G-Force T/A Drag radials i believe they were....or Nitto 555R's to rap around them Torque Thrusts...so you guys think priolly low 12's if im lucky high 11's?
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03-23-2004, 01:19 PM
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On a lowered car with stock weight and no engine mods? I seriously doubt a high 11.
Most of the 11 sec stock motor guys have all the bolt ons, a good suspension setup, tires, a high stall, and weight reduction too.
Solid 12's though.
Most of the 11 sec stock motor guys have all the bolt ons, a good suspension setup, tires, a high stall, and weight reduction too.
Solid 12's though.
03-23-2004, 06:24 PM
#11
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if you want good et's take lowering out of your vocab... it hurts you...
tc anything in 3200-3500 range will help alot.. shave .4-.5 off your et.
tq thrust wheels are heavy.. they look good but will hurt you at the track...
if et's are your consern you want more flex in your side wall then you can get with a 17" rim...
most of us have a street set up and a drag set up...
my street set up is 17's see sig with 275 kumos in front and 315 nittos in back...
but at the track 15x4 skinneys up front and and 15x10 slicks in back....
i would say that dyno was actual and not corrected #'s if i had to guess either way take it to a dyno yourself never trust anyone when they are trying to sell a car
with full bolt ons you can go 11's... as you sit with tc i would give ya 12.6ish
tc anything in 3200-3500 range will help alot.. shave .4-.5 off your et.
tq thrust wheels are heavy.. they look good but will hurt you at the track...
if et's are your consern you want more flex in your side wall then you can get with a 17" rim...
most of us have a street set up and a drag set up...
my street set up is 17's see sig with 275 kumos in front and 315 nittos in back...
but at the track 15x4 skinneys up front and and 15x10 slicks in back....
i would say that dyno was actual and not corrected #'s if i had to guess either way take it to a dyno yourself never trust anyone when they are trying to sell a car
with full bolt ons you can go 11's... as you sit with tc i would give ya 12.6ish
03-23-2004, 06:36 PM
#14
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huh?
lowering helps with cornering.... thats it....
it hurts at the track....
if he wants a road race car ok...lower it..
if he want it to hook at the track .... lowering is the devil
lowering helps with cornering.... thats it....
it hurts at the track....
if he wants a road race car ok...lower it..
if he want it to hook at the track .... lowering is the devil
03-23-2004, 06:59 PM
#16
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believe me... dont believe me....
ask around... how many mid to low 11 sec cars are lowered....
chances are you will find MANY more that put in v6 springs... which raise your back end up a little
lower means worse weight transfer = bad traction=bad et's.....
some rules never change brother.... been that way since guys started this game
ask around... how many mid to low 11 sec cars are lowered....
chances are you will find MANY more that put in v6 springs... which raise your back end up a little
lower means worse weight transfer = bad traction=bad et's.....
some rules never change brother.... been that way since guys started this game
03-23-2004, 07:30 PM
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Well if your car really put those #'s down and you add a stall and some sticky tires you could prolly see 12.3ish. My car might have a little over 300rwhp and that got me into the high high 12's so IF you have that kind of power you could pull 12.8-12.7 with a good trap speed of 109ish hp usually will show up in the trap speed, hence me only getting 106 with 310ish hp and if I were to add a stall I may see 12.5 @ 105 with only 290rwhp due to a little loss of hp from the stall..........In short screw the dyno#'s and just hit the track that will tell you the cars true potential....Good luck
