Hydraulic Clutch Bleeding How-to for new owners.
#1
Hydraulic Clutch Bleeding How-to for new owners.
Just do this. 100% works... all you need is a help who is good as listening, thats bout it.
1) 2 person job, helper and person under car to crack the bleeder.
2) Disconnect line, fill resivor, put line in a tin can, allow for gravity bleed. Keep filling from top, should get 99% of all air out.
3) Connect line to slave, top off resivor.
4) DO NOT PUMP the clutch pedal EVER.
5) Have helper push down and hold, thats it. Crack bleeder, then re tighten.
6) Have helper pull up the pedal, then push down/hold
7) Crack bleeder, re tighten
8) after the 3rd time, refill the res with fluid.
9) By the 4th or 5th time you crack the bleeder, re tighten, add fluid and see if the pedal has gotten firm. It should at this point. Done this on quiet a few cars. Stock Clutch Master, Ram (like stock), and Tick units and all work fine.
**When you check for firmness make sure the res is filled, with the rubber bladder thing, and cap is on, as this is needed.
1) 2 person job, helper and person under car to crack the bleeder.
2) Disconnect line, fill resivor, put line in a tin can, allow for gravity bleed. Keep filling from top, should get 99% of all air out.
3) Connect line to slave, top off resivor.
4) DO NOT PUMP the clutch pedal EVER.
5) Have helper push down and hold, thats it. Crack bleeder, then re tighten.
6) Have helper pull up the pedal, then push down/hold
7) Crack bleeder, re tighten
8) after the 3rd time, refill the res with fluid.
9) By the 4th or 5th time you crack the bleeder, re tighten, add fluid and see if the pedal has gotten firm. It should at this point. Done this on quiet a few cars. Stock Clutch Master, Ram (like stock), and Tick units and all work fine.
**When you check for firmness make sure the res is filled, with the rubber bladder thing, and cap is on, as this is needed.