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Next Step? H/C/ intake, rear, nitrous, or other?

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Old 08-01-2012, 07:06 PM
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Default Next Step? H/C/ intake, rear, nitrous, or other?

So copied my pdf from texas speed, I also have SLP lid, SLP headers into custom true duals, MGW Shifter, , and swapped my ls1 intake for an ls6 intake TB.
Buddy of mine is supporting the rear , he also wants the rear for gears. I want to spend around 1k. With an LS6 intake and TB would nitrous not be as effective? Maybe a 150 shot is wht I am aiming for. Its going to b a DD so keep that in mind as well. Maybe suspension? Tires?

383c.i. SHORT-BLOCK - 24X RELUCTOR
GM LS1/LS6 Engine Block, Bare
Callies CompStar 4.000 Inch Stroke LS1 Crankshaft, 24X Reluctor Callies Compstar 6.125' H-beam Connecting Rod Set - Rated to 900HP
Wiseco Forged Piston Set: 3.903' Bore, 3.622' Stroke, 6.125' Rod Length, 1.304' CH, -3.2cc Flat-Top, Includes Steel Top/Napier 2nd Ring Set
King LS1 Main Bearing Set, HP Bi-Metal Series, Standard, Set of 8 King LS1 Main Bearing Set, HP Bi-Metal Series, Standard, Set of 8 Camshaft Bearing Set for LS2 and 2nd Gen LS1 Engine Block
Full Block Work and Preparation: Vat Block, Line Bore, Install New Cam Bearings, Bore/Hone with Torque Plate, Balance Rotating Assy., Square Deck & Set Deck Height
ARP Main Stud Kit for LS1/LS6-Based Engines
GM LS1 Oil Restrictor
GM LS1 Oil Galley Core Plug
GM LS1 Large Coolant Plug
GM Engine Block Small Coolant Plug, LSx-Based Engines Assemble Short-block
Joe Gibbs Break-In Oil - 1 Quart
Short-block Discount!
CYLINDER HEADS
Precision Race Components CNC Stage 2.5 LS6 Cylinder Heads, Bare
2.02-Inch Stainless Steel Intake Valve, Per Valve
1.57-Inch Stainless Steel Exhaust Valve, Per Valve
PRC .675' Dual Valve Spring Kit complete with seats, seals, and retainers
LONG-BLOCK
Texas Speed & Performance Tsunami Camshaft: 235/240, .653'/.609', 111 LSA
Texas Speed & Performance 7.40 Chromemoly Pushrod, Per Pushrod
GM LS7 Lifter Kit
GM LS1 Metal Cylinder Head Gaskets, Up to 3.910' Bore Size, PAIR
GM Cylinder Head Bolts for LS2 and 2004+ New-Style LS1 Engine Blocks, Per Cylinder Head
In Motion LS1 Double Roller Timing Set w/ Torrington Bearing Texas Speed & Performance Ported & Shimmed LS6 Oil Pump ARP LS1/LS2/LS6 Camshaft Bolt Kit
GM LS2 Lifter Tray
GM Camshaft Retainer Plate
GM Cam Retainer Plate Bolt
GM LS1/LS2 Timing Cover Gasket
GM LS1/LS2 Rear Main Seal Housing Gasket
GM LS1 Valley Cover Gasket
GM Oil Pump O-Ring for LS1/LS6
GM LS1 Exhaust Manifold Gasket
GM LS1/2/3/6/7/92 Water Pump Gasket, Each
GM LSx Oil Pan Gasket
GM LSX Rear Main Seal
GM LS1 Front Crankshaft Seal
GM LS1/LS6 Balancer Pulley Bolt
GM LS1 Crankshaft Keyway
GM Engine Block Dowel Pin for Cylinder Heads
Assemble Long-block
Old 08-03-2012, 08:40 AM
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I would seriously consider a rear-end before adding ANY more power to your car.

If it were an automatic you could get away with it a while longer, but being a 6 speed your 10 bolt's time on earth is short.
Old 08-03-2012, 09:42 AM
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Thanks for reply, so I'm assuming ford 9 inch?
Old 08-03-2012, 11:20 AM
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I agree, if you plan on taking the car to the track a rear end would be a good call. 9" tend to be a little stronger bu the 12-bolts can also take a lot of abuse. For this kind of power level you could go with either.
Old 08-03-2012, 11:25 AM
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I am not a track guy, I just enjoy a nice drive down the highway with a few hurts of speed when the time calls for it. Its my DD so not really looking for a super rear. Wanted something in the 1k price range but I feel like a rear that could handle what I want is no where near that price range especially with labor.
Old 08-03-2012, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Drew-Bot
I am not a track guy, I just enjoy a nice drive down the highway with a few hurts of speed when the time calls for it. Its my DD so not really looking for a super rear. Wanted something in the 1k price range but I feel like a rear that could handle what I want is no where near that price range especially with labor.
No offense but unless you just find someone willing to loose a grand or more on selling you a rear I doubt you'll find anything for a grand. I have seen a couple 12-bolts on here for 1200-1500 but they are gone quick and unless you just luck out on finding one with the right diff and gear you'll end up paying to set it up to fit your needs. A S60 or 9inch is going to cost at a minimum of 2k.
Old 08-03-2012, 11:39 AM
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Yea thats what I found with more research. Also with my rear only having 37k miles what is a reasonable price for one. I wanna make it a decent deal for someone, I won't be using it anyways why not help out someone.
Old 08-03-2012, 11:49 AM
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bob@brutespeed says 200-500 would be a good start and to post it on here. Obviously I cannot count on that money for upgrades since its not a sure thing. But we will see wht happens with the cash flows in the next month. I may be able to double it project fund. But I will take your advice and not add more power until I can back it up.
Old 08-03-2012, 12:13 PM
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I have similar power goals so I'm hoping my factory rear goods thru. I can say tho my rear is a bit cheaper then urs.
Old 08-03-2012, 12:19 PM
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I'd have to agree, continue putting money aside for either a S60 or 9 inch. If you were to add more power or better traction now, you'll be back to saving up for a new rear in short order.
Old 08-12-2012, 09:03 PM
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Very helpful info I had no idea how much rear ends were.
Old 08-13-2012, 09:30 PM
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you could look into doing a ford 8.8,seen them done for under $1000 if you know what you are doing.some one on this forum mite build 1 for you for $1500 + shipping.you can find used 9" and 12 bolts for $2000 used.
Old 08-14-2012, 11:11 AM
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I'd say 12 bolt and be done with it.




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