rldevogt

Here lately my clutch pedal has become extremely sticky. Every time I press it to the floor it stays there. I have to lift the pedal back up with my foot even then it pressure doesn't come back to the pedal until it is almost on the floor. I have checked the fluid and it is fine.

I have read that this is a common problem with the Master Cylinder. I am wondering if I replace the stock MC with another stock MC if this would fix the problem or would the problem still occur.

I have read that I should just buy a Tick MC but I am not trying to spend 300+ on MC right now.

Any help would be appreciated.

kramsdell

Save for a tick unit and be done with it. I know that's not what you want to hear, but unless you want this to be a reoccurring problem, do it. You won't regret it.

If you really can't, bleed the clutch. Then after you bleed it, do it again.

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

You could try the drill mod if you're not yet ready to get the Tick MC. But yea, the Tick would fix it for sure.

calgary_z28

Look into the ranger method for the clutch master cylinder. For under
$10.00 in supplies, it's well worth a try. I wish I'd learned about it sooner.
I eventually had to replace my slave cylinder but I bet it bought me some
time. Expect 10-20 cycles before you get the fluid from black to clear on
your first go.

stoning_volcom

iTrader: (6)

people just try to sell you a tick instead of putting time into it, heres what you should do. Get clear fluid in there instead of the dark old stuff.

Clutch Bleed Procedure Using Remote Bleeder and a Helper

I have a remote bleeder on my car but don't use it. I find the reservoir method is easier for me. But for those who wish to bleed via a remote bleeder, here is the way. Be very precise in the sequencing. If you're not, you will introduce air into the hydraulics.


Start by placing a section of clear tubing over the remote bleed valve nipple and running the tube to a clear plastic bottle, so that the expelled fluid can be seen. Light the tubing and bottle appropriately. Then:

1. Replace fluid in the reservoir with fresh DOT4. Clean diaphragm and replace cap.

2. Helper pumps the clutch pedal five times slowly full-top to full-bottom to full-top. Helper then takes foot off pedal.

3. You open the remote bleed valve.

4. Helper slowly presses the clutch pedal to the floor and holds it there.

5. You re-tighten the bleed valve.

6. Helper releases the clutch pedal.

7. You refill the reservoir to the fill-line and replace the cap.

8. Repeat steps until the expelled clutch fluid remains clear and shows no air bubbles.

9. Final step is to correct the fluid level in the reservoir.

10. Go for an easy drive without launch or high-rpm shifts. Check clutch engagement point and shift smoothness.

11. Repeat at lease one more time as required to disgorge trapped air.


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...-and-cure.html

Fry_

A remote bleeder line is the best way to bleed everything but I don't think you can install one without removing the transmission. The factory bleeder screw is about impossible to use unless you want to pull back your carpet and take a hole saw to your drivers side transmission tunnel/floor pan. This is how I bleed my clutch before I replaced everything and installed a remote speed bleeder.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...under-car.html

This may not work for you, and if it doesn't it probably means either your master or slave cylinder is on it's way out. If so I'd stop screwing around and start saving for this.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...camaro-firebird/

stoning_volcom

iTrader: (6)

No simply make a tool, i did and it was amazing and worked great. 1/2 tubing about 1 foot long, hammer it flat but leave the one end round for the handle. Then a 7/16s socket you dont care about clean it and clean the metal tube weld it on and there you go. I can put up pics if that helps? I just bled mine, mine was doing the same thing. Brand new trans from rpm, new replacement slave, I post up above a thread. and the instructions. My clutch on wide open throttle every no and then would stick to the floor, or would not allow me to engage 2nd or 3rd. I followed those instructions and the shifts great, wide open throttle it acts like normal driving conditions. The black fluid could simply be like that from water but more then likely it has seen heat and boiling points. when your going wot, the fluid will wither get really hot or begin to boil, now when it begins to boil it realses a gas, that gas is trapped in the system therefore sticking or refusing a shift. hope this helps. let me no if you want me to send a pic of the tool, heck ill make a thread on it.

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

I would for sure bleed it really well. Everyone told me to get a tick master too. I'm sure they are a great product but keeping the clutch fluid clean can make a huge difference. I use a plunger to suck mine out of the reservoir and put in fresh fluid if I have been driving it hard. If I'm just cruising around normal I will change it once a week. Zero pedal sticking issues after I started doing that.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I attempted to keep fluid fresh in my factory master to alleviate this issue, but that -- along with the drill mod -- was to no avail. Aside from sticking to the floor, I was locked out of gear at high rpm as well. So, Tick master cylinder time it was. I'd suggest the Tick to anyone after becoming a believer myself

MikeWS6

None of this ever worked for me. So I just bought a new clutch kit to be done with it.

sowbelle

How is the clutch pedal return spring? These things break often and can cause sticky pedal.
A big pain to replace. Buy 2 if it is broken.

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

why go through all that bull **** when you can buy a Tick and be done with it FOREVER !

stoning_volcom

iTrader: (6)

k so here is where i get confused. People say to buy the tick master and be done with it, and you know what yes they are awesome, and work very well. But when i car is being driven and not normal driving all the time or even excessive by that i mean long tubes cause heat to the clutch line. Now yes the tick may fix your problem temporarly as in 5k to 10 but if the slave is not changed and it still has dirty fluid in it or just contaminates it will not fix it. many thing factor into the clutch sticking, dust from the clutch can get into and inbetween the seal on the slave therefor getting into the fluid. high heat will cause it to get to its boiling point. when that happens it forms a gas inside the line and cannot escape therefore cancling your shift. also try this, start your car dont let it warm up try to keep the fluid from boiling and see if you get on it right away if it mishifts. I made a tool to make it easier and forgot to post the vid so here it is hope this helped thanks


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