Holley pan 302-1 or302-2
04-24-2014, 06:48 PM
#1
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Holley pan 302-1 or302-2 I have a 70 Chevelle I'm swapping to a lq9 I will be running ridetech level 2 coil over set up and a 4l60e. I have a new Holley pan 302-1 that I was going to use in 56 210 but I sold the car. Should I use the older Holley pan that I have or bite the bullet for the new one? Done some research to see there are issues of the inner tie rods hitting pan or can I just raise the engine up without hurting my drive line angles. I plan on using Phil brewers mounts because I live 15 min from him but have not got them yet, so if there are diffrent ones tgat solve that issue that would be great. Thanks for a any suggestions.
Tom.
Tom.
05-04-2014, 06:54 PM
#6
Mine fits great, LS1 and 4L70e tranny. The pan is slightly above the bottom of the crossmember. No steering issues. Currently the best pan for the money. Modify your truck windage tray. One down side is the baffle is pricey but for a daily driver you don't need it. You can make one for about $15 from the hardware store.
I will say though, I modified my own motor mounts and drilled the crossmember for best placement forward/back and height. Keep the engine as low as possible to prevent excessive drive angle. You won't be able to raise the tranny much. Unless you move everything forward but that's not favorable for weight distribution. I keep mine as low and as far back as possible. To lower the engine I actually took 3/8" out of the frame mounts by cutting with a bandsaw then welding them back together.
Radius the bell housing bolt bosses, this will give you a little more clearance to tunnel. Used the shiftworks tail housing adapter for the mechanical speedo. I was then able to reuse my tranny crossmember by cutting off the mount pad and relocating it to the back of the member. The money I saved made up for the additional expense of the tailhousing rather than going with the electric speedo drive.
I'll be posting pictures on my build link this week, maybe it will be helpful. I have pictures of my motor mounts and accessory drive there. Good luck with the swap.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...y-drive-3.html
I will say though, I modified my own motor mounts and drilled the crossmember for best placement forward/back and height. Keep the engine as low as possible to prevent excessive drive angle. You won't be able to raise the tranny much. Unless you move everything forward but that's not favorable for weight distribution. I keep mine as low and as far back as possible. To lower the engine I actually took 3/8" out of the frame mounts by cutting with a bandsaw then welding them back together.
Radius the bell housing bolt bosses, this will give you a little more clearance to tunnel. Used the shiftworks tail housing adapter for the mechanical speedo. I was then able to reuse my tranny crossmember by cutting off the mount pad and relocating it to the back of the member. The money I saved made up for the additional expense of the tailhousing rather than going with the electric speedo drive.
I'll be posting pictures on my build link this week, maybe it will be helpful. I have pictures of my motor mounts and accessory drive there. Good luck with the swap.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...y-drive-3.html
05-04-2014, 07:53 PM
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Mine fits great, LS1 and 4L70e tranny. The pan is slightly above the bottom of the crossmember. No steering issues. Currently the best pan for the money. Modify your truck windage tray. One down side is the baffle is pricey but for a daily driver you don't need it. You can make one for about $15 from the hardware store.
I will say though, I modified my own motor mounts and drilled the crossmember for best placement forward/back and height. Keep the engine as low as possible to prevent excessive drive angle. You won't be able to raise the tranny much. Unless you move everything forward but that's not favorable for weight distribution. I keep mine as low and as far back as possible. To lower the engine I actually took 3/8" out of the frame mounts by cutting with a bandsaw then welding them back together.
Radius the bell housing bolt bosses, this will give you a little more clearance to tunnel. Used the shiftworks tail housing adapter for the mechanical speedo. I was then able to reuse my tranny crossmember by cutting off the mount pad and relocating it to the back of the member. The money I saved made up for the additional expense of the tailhousing rather than going with the electric speedo drive.
I'll be posting pictures on my build link this week, maybe it will be helpful. I have pictures of my motor mounts and accessory drive there. Good luck with the swap.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...y-drive-3.html
I will say though, I modified my own motor mounts and drilled the crossmember for best placement forward/back and height. Keep the engine as low as possible to prevent excessive drive angle. You won't be able to raise the tranny much. Unless you move everything forward but that's not favorable for weight distribution. I keep mine as low and as far back as possible. To lower the engine I actually took 3/8" out of the frame mounts by cutting with a bandsaw then welding them back together.
Radius the bell housing bolt bosses, this will give you a little more clearance to tunnel. Used the shiftworks tail housing adapter for the mechanical speedo. I was then able to reuse my tranny crossmember by cutting off the mount pad and relocating it to the back of the member. The money I saved made up for the additional expense of the tailhousing rather than going with the electric speedo drive.
I'll be posting pictures on my build link this week, maybe it will be helpful. I have pictures of my motor mounts and accessory drive there. Good luck with the swap.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...y-drive-3.html
