robin427

Hello everybody!! (wait for response...)

A cheeky Brit here who has bought one of your proper engines to run on the $6.50/gal gas that we get over here.

I've bought a 2002 Firebird (Ram Air Trans Am) LS1 w/T56 and have been told that to get it to run, I will need to disable VATS somehow. The guy I bought the engine off says

"The Vats is in the dash harness and not the engine, so you don't have to
worry about that."

But I'm not sure about that. I don't want to pay $250+ to get the loom modified when Baker Electronix sell a VATS module for $25.00 (you see the price of our gas, right?).

You are the experts, what is the real answer? I won't be using the key from the 'Bird (is it an F-body? I have no idea), so not sure if I can wire a resistor in somewhere to fool the VATS (what's the difference between the resistor method and the 50Hz gizmo method?)...

I look forward to your replies, gas is going up daily...

Robin
England

Danny2tek

iTrader: (1)

You might get a quicker answer in the Stereo & Electronics forum.

Did a quick search got this https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=vats

robin427

That seemed pretty quick to me!! OK, I'll try there...

Thanks,

Robin

unit213

I'm no expert, but I did have some difficulty with my VATS system in my old '00 LS1 Z28.

First, let me say that my wiring abilities are very suspect. So, I tried wiring up my nitrous kit and I accidentally disabled the VATS. The wiring that I snipped was located under the dash.

You'll find the answer you're lookin for here. Use the search button and post up.

Good luck!

slow

iTrader: (7)

you need either a BCM and a resistor.

Or if your just using the ECM/PCM you will need a vats bypass module, or programming to disable it.

there is lots of information on this in the "conversions and hybrids forum"

Ryan

14u2nv

Why not just have the VATS turned off via computer programming

locosteelersfan

Back up a second,
Why do you need to disable the VATS in the first place.
Why isn't is working. Don't you have a transmitter/fob.

locosteelersfan

By the way, yes that is an Fbody.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

I believe it goes like this...1)Resistor value within the ignition key is compared to resistor value in Body Control Module. 2)If they match, BCM (located in lower right passenger area) sends a 50 hertz signal (which enables injector pulse signals)to the PCM. 3)PCM sends injector pulses to injectors.

Your choices are 1)to have VATS function within the PCM disabled using LS1 Edit. This will eliminate the need for the resistor key and the BCM. 2) Use a VATS bypass module (50 hertz generator-always on) in place of the BCM. No BCM or resistor key required. 3)Leave VATS enabled. Resistor key and BCM required.

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

Welcome to the site, what are you putting that engine into?

Dal1as

Any decent alarm installer can get the workaround through G.M. and reprogram the system. The guy that installed my alarm completely disabled the G.M. alarm.

slow

iTrader: (7)

if he has the BCM harness, your right.

But it sounds like he does not, and cannot "fake" the BCM 50hz enable with a simple resistor. If you just have the motor harness.



Ryan.

half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

ok look at yoiur key, there is a black box with a little silver piece of metal in the middle right...

good
ok now buy a volometer and check the ohms of that silver piece of metal by putting the negative side of the voltometer to one side of the little silver piece and the positive post of the voltometer to the other side of the little silver piece. Chances are good that you will read something like 1.47K or others there are only like 6-7 possibilities i think. Once you have that reading get a single resistor with the same reading( at least within 5-10%) and go underneath your dash. there will be an orange tube loom dealy. inside this orange loom (it will be running form where your key goes in) there will be two small white wires, cut these and put connect the two wires that are not on the key side together with the resistor in place. No more VATS.

PM me if you need anything else. or a slightly better explanation.

Louie

horist

half-n-half ... that'd only work if he had the BCM though correct? w/out the the BCM there's no way to verify that the resistor value is what should be there... Best bet is probably just to have the PCM flashed w/the VATS disabled...

robin427

Thanks for the replies, guys. I've only just received the engine - I'm putting it into a Cobra.

Here's a picture of it on the chassis

Already started stripping it of all the useless emission crap - what's the point of burning fossil fuels if you can't pollute the environment at the same time?

68LSS1

robin427, go to the conversion and hybrids section. That's for the guys putting LS1's into vehicles not originally equipped with them. If you are going to use the stock pcm just have the VATS deleted via LS1edit. You can get the box but why fool with the added wiring and box? I would guess your going to need some tuning (computer) anyway to delete some of the other stuff you won't be using like air pump, fuel pressure, rear O2's etc.

robin427

I'll have a look in that section, thanks.
It's easy for you to say "just have the VATS deleted via LS1edit" but there are no dealers in the UK who have it and I can't afford to buy my own copy at the moment.

With regards to having another box - the module I bought from Baker Electronics is not much bigger than a Zippo and can be installed in such a way that I can take it with me when I leave the car somewhere so the original VATS will kick back in and give an extra layer of security.

68LSS1

Maybe not LS1edit but something similar. I originally thought about doing the same thing as far as keeping VATS. I've got some wiring diagrams to make the box if you want them.

robin427

I bought the VATS/O2 module from Baker Electronics - haven't got as far as wiring it in yet, though. I'm sure it would be cheaper to make one myself, but their modules are very well made whereas mine wouldn't be!!

BTA 123

What the hell is VATS? lol