Fram mod on ws6 lower box???
#5
TECH Enthusiast
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Did some research before i posted. You can do the mod on the ws6 box. Didnt find alot of info on ws6 mostly stock box. Just would like to hear some more feedback? Thx
#6
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When I did my research I found that you should do one or the other as doing both causes turbulence, and any pressure you could build would go out the other hole instead of into the intake. So I would recommend a bottom breathing kit (SSRA or Chrs1313) or seal the hood to the air box with something like the JAAM kit.
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#8
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#9
Launching!
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I considered purchasing the JAAM kit, but after debaffling the hood, I couldn't see where it would provide much more benefit than just sealing the hood to the airbox. If you close the WS6 hood, and reach into the vent holes beneath the nostrils, you'll see that the WS6 hood prevents airflow directly to the airbox. My theory is that those holes were designed to let fresh air in with a conventional hood, but not the ram air hood. The "baffling area" within the WS6 hood essentially eliminates the effectiveness of holes between the hood and the bumper. I'm not saying a small amount of air could make its way there, but nothing significant IMO.
I used "Metro Moulded MW 78348" to seal the hood to the airbox and it provides an almost stock look at a cheap price along with some fiberglass screening behind the honeycomb holes as a splash guard of sorts.
I used "Metro Moulded MW 78348" to seal the hood to the airbox and it provides an almost stock look at a cheap price along with some fiberglass screening behind the honeycomb holes as a splash guard of sorts.
Last edited by Starion; 06-17-2014 at 02:25 PM.
#12
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...air-worth.html
I didn't take it to the track yet but defiantly feel a difference on the butt dyno, especially at 60+mph.
I didn't take it to the track yet but defiantly feel a difference on the butt dyno, especially at 60+mph.
#14
Launching!
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Here's what mine looks like. The screening is directly behind the nostrils as well as before the airbox. I can hit it with a hose directly and it won't get the filter wet. I'm sure it impairs airflow, but I'll take that tradeoff. I don't think there's much of a risk of ingesting water during heavy rain even without screening. The only risk I could see would be getting behind a big truck throwing up huge amounts of water directly into the nostrils. Any event that would have the nose of the car submerged would have me more concerned about my life than hydrolocking the motor.
http://s11.postimg.org/vq4hc5mqr/weatherstripping.jpg
http://s11.postimg.org/vq4hc5mqr/weatherstripping.jpg
Last edited by Starion; 06-18-2014 at 03:17 PM.
#17
Launching!
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It's called "Metro Moulded MW 78348" weather stripping. You can get it from amazon for about 13 bucks and you get enough to do about 2 cars. It's about an inch thick and is just enough to seal the gap. If you look closely in the pictures you can see the indentations from the air box clips. The thing I really like about it is that it's very durable and holds up well to the heat of the engine bay. Even after several years of use, there's no sign of degradation.
#19
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Nobody knocks off 0.5 seconds of ET from sealing up the air box with no other changes.