How to tell what's in a Moser 12bolt? Looking to change fluid
09-27-2014, 02:27 AM
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How to tell what's in a Moser 12bolt? Looking to change fluid I purchased the car with 12bolt Moser already installed.
I didn't know then that people have put different lsd or posi in there. I just though Moser 12 bolt =Moser inside.
Anyways I want to change the fluid since I don't know it's age or condition.
From what I gather I'f it's Eaton =non synthetic required.
1 GM additive
2 quarts gear oil 80w90
So my questions are:
How do I check what I have exactly? What are the common posi that people put in Moser 12bolt?
Lastly is there any posi that requires synthetic specific?
If Dino regular 80w90 with additive is compatible with all I'd rather not open things up and use that oil.
Btw I read that for each quart of oil I need 3oz of additive?
I didn't know then that people have put different lsd or posi in there. I just though Moser 12 bolt =Moser inside.
Anyways I want to change the fluid since I don't know it's age or condition.
From what I gather I'f it's Eaton =non synthetic required.
1 GM additive
2 quarts gear oil 80w90
So my questions are:
How do I check what I have exactly? What are the common posi that people put in Moser 12bolt?
Lastly is there any posi that requires synthetic specific?
If Dino regular 80w90 with additive is compatible with all I'd rather not open things up and use that oil.
Btw I read that for each quart of oil I need 3oz of additive?
10-02-2014, 07:22 AM
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It's amazing to watch people obsess over gear oil. The stuff is good for 100k miles at least in normal driving. If fact, the average car will never have it changed during its lifetime. I'll grant that these cars see thing that the average car won't...maybe, so it's probably a good idea to change it....once it has 60 or 70k on it.
10-02-2014, 05:36 PM
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There are 100+ page threads on a bunch of different car forums about whether or not one can use a synthetic gear oil in; Eaton Posi/Truetrac/Auburn diffs, and NOTHING is EVER solved by them or shown to be conclusive at all.
YES, IF you want to play it COMPLETELY safe and conservative, you cannot go wrong with the dino 80W-90 (or 80W/85W-140 if it is either noisy, or you live in south Tejas), with ONE bottle (4 oz.) of the limited slip friction modifier (I prefer the Motorcraft XL-3 stinky stuff over the GM/Red Line/Amsoil/CRC/etc.).
I know that Truetrac says NOT to add the friction modifier to it's Torsen type diffs, BUT, the factory Torsen T2s in '99-'02 f bodies is the SAME type of diff as this, and GM sent out a TSB to add the FM to these diffs if they were making the 'rocks in a box' coast down noise, so I cannot see how it would hurt.
YES, IF you want to play it COMPLETELY safe and conservative, you cannot go wrong with the dino 80W-90 (or 80W/85W-140 if it is either noisy, or you live in south Tejas), with ONE bottle (4 oz.) of the limited slip friction modifier (I prefer the Motorcraft XL-3 stinky stuff over the GM/Red Line/Amsoil/CRC/etc.).
I know that Truetrac says NOT to add the friction modifier to it's Torsen type diffs, BUT, the factory Torsen T2s in '99-'02 f bodies is the SAME type of diff as this, and GM sent out a TSB to add the FM to these diffs if they were making the 'rocks in a box' coast down noise, so I cannot see how it would hurt.
10-02-2014, 08:41 PM
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It's amazing to watch people obsess over gear oil. The stuff is good for 100k miles at least in normal driving. If fact, the average car will never have it changed during its lifetime. I'll grant that these cars see thing that the average car won't...maybe, so it's probably a good idea to change it....once it has 60 or 70k on it.
Ive also read post about running synthetic and people trashing their diff.
Im not in it for best fluid all i want is to ensure that the wrong fluid isnt in there. cheap enough and i would only do it once in a lifetime of this car(in my ownership). and i dont have to worry about it. why not.
There are 100+ page threads on a bunch of different car forums about whether or not one can use a synthetic gear oil in; Eaton Posi/Truetrac/Auburn diffs, and NOTHING is EVER solved by them or shown to be conclusive at all.
YES, IF you want to play it COMPLETELY safe and conservative, you cannot go wrong with the dino 80W-90 (or 80W/85W-140 if it is either noisy, or you live in south Tejas), with ONE bottle (4 oz.) of the limited slip friction modifier (I prefer the Motorcraft XL-3 stinky stuff over the GM/Red Line/Amsoil/CRC/etc.).
I know that Truetrac says NOT to add the friction modifier to it's Torsen type diffs, BUT, the factory Torsen T2s in '99-'02 f bodies is the SAME type of diff as this, and GM sent out a TSB to add the FM to these diffs if they were making the 'rocks in a box' coast down noise, so I cannot see how it would hurt.
YES, IF you want to play it COMPLETELY safe and conservative, you cannot go wrong with the dino 80W-90 (or 80W/85W-140 if it is either noisy, or you live in south Tejas), with ONE bottle (4 oz.) of the limited slip friction modifier (I prefer the Motorcraft XL-3 stinky stuff over the GM/Red Line/Amsoil/CRC/etc.).
I know that Truetrac says NOT to add the friction modifier to it's Torsen type diffs, BUT, the factory Torsen T2s in '99-'02 f bodies is the SAME type of diff as this, and GM sent out a TSB to add the FM to these diffs if they were making the 'rocks in a box' coast down noise, so I cannot see how it would hurt.
this is what im looking for. dino oil it is with modifyer.