gardensofgrief

Hey guys, I figured I would post this topic about my car because it is getting hard for me to diagnose a normal issue due to what I have done with my 00 z28. First of all, I am embarrassed to post this because I know how dumb it is, but I am at a point where I cannot go back. Alright, On to what I botched: I really wanted to get headers, insanely much, so I went and bought a pair of LTs off craigslist. They are steelworks I believe. I could barely afford those, so I decide I will save a grand by installing it myself and hold off on tuning it. I start working on the drivers side because its the easier side and I wanted to at least build up some confidence because I have never done major automotive work. I am only used to routine maintenance and car audio/security. I change the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and the drivers side header. Currently it is running open. I'm not even sure if i changed my spark plugs correctly. I feel ashamed about this because I know better, but I did not remove the negative terminal on my battery. So...yes I am currently running an open header on my drivers side, but stock on the passenger side because I dont have the tools, or the means, or the funds to get the passenger side done. I know how stupid this sounds, but I am stuck and I cant move back or forward because I am living paycheck to paycheck. Anyways, the EGR valve is in a different spot on the new header, so the pipe connecting to my EGR valve does not reach, so I removed the valve. There is a plate over the header portion, and i shoved a wine stopper into the vacuum side to make it seem like the valve is permanently closed. The EGR valve is still connected on the passenger side. It seemed to be running fine. i took into consideration that the Air/fuel ratio might be a little weird due to the different sized headers. Recently, my car was having a really rough idle after coming to a stop, and then my engine stalled and would not start back up. So I came to the conclusion that my fuel pump went bad, which makes sense because it has been 14 years. I replaced the fuel pump with a Tre Performance 255lph pump. Runs perfect. Starts up right away, idle is smoother than ever, switching gears is smoother than ever (A4 Trans). A couple days later I end up driving it for more than 30 minutes, and thats when I start to notice that my idle is gradually becoming rougher and rougher. I start to hear a bit of sputter as I let go of the gas. It is not to the point where it will stall, but I notice that the longer it is being driven, the rougher it gets. So right now I have just been driving as short as I can so it doesnt get worse. Another thing I have noticed is that when the idle is gradually getting rough, my oil pressure gauge will tick back and forth between 35-45 psi. I know that I need to get a few tools to pinpoint what my problem exactly is, like a fuel and oil pressure gauge and so on. I was just wondering if anyone could point out some tips and advice on what to look for. I have been doing a lot of reading, but I want to make sure that the different sized headers could be throwing off the diagnostic process. Also, I forgot to mention, a couple sensors that attach to the exhaust are not attached because they dont reach. Unfortunately, I do not have a code reader at the moment. I know it would be super helpful, but I cannot afford one at the moment. Thank you guys for taking the time to read this and giving some input and advice I hope. Please dont make comments that are pointing out how lame my situation is, because I already know. Thank you again.

FIVEPOINT7

iTrader: (2)

Are you saying the drivers side O2 sensors are not hooked up? That will cause so issues for sure.

garygnu

you need both O2 sensors in front of the CAT hooked up .have it tuned ,and delete the rear O2s ,and delete the EGR .

02DroptopZ

iTrader: (3)

You say you got the drivers side done? If so, I don't know who told you that's the easy side. They lied. That's the hard side, passenger slips in crazy easy. You won't need any special tools for getting the pass side done, it's very easy. That would be my first priority.

As for the codes, go to any auto parts store and they can read them for you for free. What exactly do you have disconnected? If you aren't using any O2 sensors at all, that's a lot of your problem right there. That will cause your idle to jump, which is probably what's causing your oil pressure fluctuations. Having the EGR rigged like that certainly isn't helping either. Order some cheap blockoffs on eBay and that will sort that, you will need one to plug a hole on top of your intake manifold at least. This may also be causing a vacuum leak, which would could explain your idle issues. Also, what do you think you messed up with the spark plugs?

Are you driving it with one manifold still on, but open manifold, as in dumping exhaust into your engine bay? If so, I really hope you're driving with the windows down at all times and not running your heat or A/C. Carbon monoxide poisoning is no joke, and if you're running no front O2 sensors that's making it 100x worse.

Oh - and don't feel bad, lots of guys get in over their heads with cars at some point. Nobody starts out as an expert, and there is no shame in asking for help

CAMONLYLS2

You need to get the o2 sensors plugged in get the exhaust together asap! Plus that 255lph is going to raise fuel pressure which is going to make it run even more fat than it is without all the other crap working properly. If you have to half *** something because you are low on funds just leave it stock until you have the money to do everything in one shot or to pay someone to do it for you (which I never encourage anyone to do but to each his own) it will prevent future problems and headaches.

gardensofgrief

It had been a while. I can't remember if I was able to get one in or not, and if one of them is in, it would be the one closer to the manifold on the header. For sure the rear one is off because I could not get it to reach.

gardensofgrief

Yes, the drivers side was the one I was able to slip right in. The passenger side has the PCM harness and the water pump and various other components in my way. I can't even get to the two rear spark plugs for that matter.
what I have disconnected are the O2 sensors on the drivers side, the ones that are supposed to be hooked into the exhaust pipes. I also removed the EGR valve on the drivers side because the stress where the valve connects to the header is different on the LT header I put on.

the spark plugs on the drivers side which I replaced, my uncertainty arises from not disconnecting the battery and I also did not have the right size spark plug socket (with the rubber padding inside) so I ended up using a normal deep socket. I'm not sure if that messed up the plug upon installation. I can't tell if I'm misfiring or not either.

No, I do not have an open manifold. On the drivers side I was able to put on the LT. The LT is what I have open. I don't have it connected to a CAT & CAT-back. The passenger side still has the stock header, CAT (gutted), and then it is still connected to the stock y-pipe.

gardensofgrief

Yeah, I know that is what I should have done...my problem is my impatience with certain things, which leads me to do stupid things =/

gardensofgrief

Thank you guys for sharing your knowledge and tips. I definitely feel a bit relieved with knowing what the most likely cause is. Much appreciated.

02DroptopZ

iTrader: (3)

The PCM harness shouldn't be an issue, it's there and makes accessing 1 spark plug and bolt a real PITA, but other than that it shouldn't give you any real issues. The water pump shouldn't even be anywhere in the picture, it's at the front of the engine completely out of the way.. Are you sure you didn't mean to say the starter motor? That would be on the passenger side and in the way. Once the starter and the y-pipe are out (not bad), unbolting the rear bolts on the manifold and getting to the rear spark plugs is a piece of cake (from underneath the car, not up top).

This won't be an issue, as long as they're snug and not loose or overtightened to the point of stripping the threads, you're fine. And not having the battery disconnected won't hurt anything for a spark plug swap.