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12-05-2014, 02:03 AM
#1
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Next Mods This is my first post. I've been learning a lot just from reading posts from people who are more experienced with the LS1 cars than I am. I recently bought a 1999 Z28. It's an A4 with stock rear gearing (3.23:1). The only mods are the free ram air, K&N air filter, performance lid and a cat-back. The car has 120,000 miles on it but it runs exceptionally well. It was well maintained. It starts right up, pulls real strong, doesn't leak oil, ect.
My question is: what performance mods should I do next? I plan on doing all of the free mods but I'm undecided on what mods should be done to a car that is a daily driver. From what I've gathered on this site, I'm leaning toward long tube headers with an off road pipe and a higher stall converter with a trans cooler. Again, the car is a daily driver. I may take it to the track to see what it will run and have some fun with it but street slicks are not an option for me. Be that as it may, is the torque converter still an option? Is the torque converter an improvement on the street running street tires? If so, what stall speed (the engine is stock).
I appreciate any and all advice. Thanks.
My question is: what performance mods should I do next? I plan on doing all of the free mods but I'm undecided on what mods should be done to a car that is a daily driver. From what I've gathered on this site, I'm leaning toward long tube headers with an off road pipe and a higher stall converter with a trans cooler. Again, the car is a daily driver. I may take it to the track to see what it will run and have some fun with it but street slicks are not an option for me. Be that as it may, is the torque converter still an option? Is the torque converter an improvement on the street running street tires? If so, what stall speed (the engine is stock).
I appreciate any and all advice. Thanks.
12-05-2014, 08:39 AM
#2
Welcome...
Your on the right track with headers and Y pipe, go 1-7/8" when the time comes. I would also recommend a ls6 intake manifold swap at the same time if money permits. Reason is you can get rid of the egr, and air pump all at the same time rather than blocking things off. The ls6 intake is also worth a few hp over the ls1 intake. As far as a stall I'm going to leave that to the auto trans guys, I have a 6 speed and haven't had any dealings with stall speeds, ect.
Your on the right track with headers and Y pipe, go 1-7/8" when the time comes. I would also recommend a ls6 intake manifold swap at the same time if money permits. Reason is you can get rid of the egr, and air pump all at the same time rather than blocking things off. The ls6 intake is also worth a few hp over the ls1 intake. As far as a stall I'm going to leave that to the auto trans guys, I have a 6 speed and haven't had any dealings with stall speeds, ect.
12-05-2014, 12:56 PM
#4
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Can you install the converter yourself and do you have another car. If the answer is yes to both I'd say go for a 4000 rpm stall converter from Yank or Circle D, if after driving it a while you decide it's too loose pull it out and have it restalled to 3400-3600 rpm. Both Yank and Circle D offer 1 free stall change in the first year, so if you can do the work and can have the car down while the converter is sent back for the re-stall I'd go big and see if you like it. I agree with 1 7/8's headers, ORY, and LS6 intake, add a mail order tune to that list and your set for bolt on's. For headers and ORY Speed Engineering are the best "bang for the buck", but if you want to throw some money around American Racing Headers or Kooks are the best of the best. Also if you don't jump on that LS6 intake right away you may want to watch this thread, https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ake-block.html, it's starting to look like it may be a better intake.
And one last thing this can save you some money when you install the headers.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...vette-o2s.html
And one last thing this can save you some money when you install the headers.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...vette-o2s.html
12-05-2014, 01:45 PM
#5
Do a stall and dont look back I regret waiting so long to do one. Makes the car so much more resposive and gets rid of those dead spots. Id try for a 3200 or 3600 either one of those will make a huge improvement, as for street tires from a dig or low roll be prepared to destroy them.
12-06-2014, 05:07 AM
#6
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The Z is my only car and, no, I won't be doing the work myself. I'll send it to an experienced mechanic.
That leaves my with a question about an aftermarket stall converter. The way the car sits now, I can floor it from a dead stop and smoke the tires. I've read about how the stall converter really wakes up the car. Is an aftermarket converter really worth it on a 100% street car? I don't plan on ever bolting up some slicks. Therefore traction, or lack of, could be a real problem. Would a higher stall converter make the car harder to launch on street tires?
That leaves my with a question about an aftermarket stall converter. The way the car sits now, I can floor it from a dead stop and smoke the tires. I've read about how the stall converter really wakes up the car. Is an aftermarket converter really worth it on a 100% street car? I don't plan on ever bolting up some slicks. Therefore traction, or lack of, could be a real problem. Would a higher stall converter make the car harder to launch on street tires?
12-06-2014, 06:04 AM
#7
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Do the stall and don't look back. A stall benefits a street car or drag car. This is the best mod you can do for automatic.Coming from someone who daily drives a stalled vehicle get the stall as soon as you can. Also get at least a 3200 stall.
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12-06-2014, 08:40 AM
#8
The Z is my only car and, no, I won't be doing the work myself. I'll send it to an experienced mechanic.
That leaves my with a question about an aftermarket stall converter. The way the car sits now, I can floor it from a dead stop and smoke the tires. I've read about how the stall converter really wakes up the car. Is an aftermarket converter really worth it on a 100% street car? I don't plan on ever bolting up some slicks. Therefore traction, or lack of, could be a real problem. Would a higher stall converter make the car harder to launch on street tires?
That leaves my with a question about an aftermarket stall converter. The way the car sits now, I can floor it from a dead stop and smoke the tires. I've read about how the stall converter really wakes up the car. Is an aftermarket converter really worth it on a 100% street car? I don't plan on ever bolting up some slicks. Therefore traction, or lack of, could be a real problem. Would a higher stall converter make the car harder to launch on street tires?
12-06-2014, 11:48 AM
#9
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I've got to agree that you need better tires. I know it's not the same sense my car is a m6 but my car puts the power down pretty good unless I'm trying to put up a cloud of smoke. The tires still spin from a dig but the car isn't just sitting there making smoke, it's moving forward at a healthy rate of speed.
Also since you'll only want to have the car down once I'd say go with a good 3600 rpm converter. But I would suggest you start doing your own work, you're probably going to be paying more for labor that parts having headers and a converter installed by a mechanic.
Also since you'll only want to have the car down once I'd say go with a good 3600 rpm converter. But I would suggest you start doing your own work, you're probably going to be paying more for labor that parts having headers and a converter installed by a mechanic.
Last edited by Fry_; 12-06-2014 at 12:01 PM.
12-08-2014, 03:15 AM
#15
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My 275/40-17 Cooper RS3-S do pretty good for a tire that should last 30-40k. It's not like they dead hook but you can roll into pretty aggressively without destroying them. Anything that hooks better is going to cost more and wear faster so it's going to be a cost vs performance compromise no matter what you choose.