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Do not buy RPT parts.

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Old 01-30-2015, 01:39 PM
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Default Do not buy RPT parts.

Maybe I'm supposed to post this somewhere else but anyway. I bought a Richard porter technologies maf sensor. After some time has past and a vacuum leak was fixed I took my 2000 Trans am on a wot run. It hit a wall at 4000 rpm. I couldn't figure it out cause I had the maf on there for over a month. Everytime 4000 rpm literal wall. It felt like back pressure , like a cat was plugged. I couldn't figure it out. After some research on here I figured out that the maf was in total control of the fueling at 4000 rpms so I threw my old stock one in which I kinda felt had gotten a little lazy. Bam! Just fine , bounced off the rev limiter. So I took it back and got a new one threw it in an holy crap same exact thing. Kinda a boom noise and loss of power at 4000 rpm. So I will be staying with my stock maf and getting my money back. But really? I have a feeling they are all this way. So if you have to buy one oem is the only way to go. Just for everyone's future reference .
Old 01-31-2015, 11:16 AM
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MAFs on these cars tend to be hit or miss. i didnt upgrade mine until i went H/C.
Old 02-10-2015, 07:37 AM
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I don't know these particular MAFs, but i know MAF systems.

Either the new MAF has a different mass flow range, and the ECU needs a retune (as in NEED, not optional, the VE/VQ map needs a change), which the OP did not do, or did not tell us he did;

or it has the same mass flow range and it was useless to change it, unless the OEM MAF was dead, which clearly was not.


So if i understand correctly, the OP installed a new MAF, without a remap, and then blamed the manufacturer when "his maf did not work" ?

It looks more like a user problem than a maf problem to me.
Old 02-10-2015, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Crousti
I don't know these particular MAFs, but i know MAF systems.

Either the new MAF has a different mass flow range, and the ECU needs a retune (as in NEED, not optional, the VE/VQ map needs a change), which the OP did not do, or did not tell us he did;

or it has the same mass flow range and it was useless to change it, unless the OEM MAF was dead, which clearly was not.


So if i understand correctly, the OP installed a new MAF, without a remap, and then blamed the manufacturer when "his maf did not work" ?

It looks more like a user problem than a maf problem to me.
I didn't know I needed to do a retune for a stock replacement maf sensor. My car is stock and this was an oem equivalent maf sensor. Both which didn't work at 4000 rpms exactly.(I took the first one back and got a second) Correct it may have been useless to change it from the stock.But I didn't know ,I was hoping for an easy fix to idle problems.(I figured the stock maf had got a little lazy)Didn't work. But the RPT parts ,2 maf sensors both could not take over the fueling at 4000 rpms. And the stock maf worked fine. Lesson learned.So the point of the post is they are useless for any spirited driving. The reason I post this is to help someone else avoid buying the pieces of junk. And I post in this section cause I am learning as I go. I'm clearly not an expert or I wouldn't post in the newbie tech section. Thanks.

Last edited by celtsean; 02-10-2015 at 11:07 PM.
Old 02-22-2015, 11:57 PM
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Did you clean the actual sensor wires inside the stock MAF with proper electronics cleaner? I treat this as a regular maintenance item like oil change or every other oil change.
Old 02-23-2015, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Mercier
Did you clean the actual sensor wires inside the stock MAF with proper electronics cleaner? I treat this as a regular maintenance item like oil change or every other oil change.
Yeah I cleaned them. I think I worded my statements poorly. I thought my stock maf wasn't really getting fully cleaned. That maybe just too much k&n oil had burned onto the wires lol. I replaced it with the RPT stock replacement maf. I was dealing with a vacuum leak and wasn't driving too hard till I fixed it. After a few weeks of narrowing that down I figured out that the pcv i replaced (first leak) had torn the grommet where it plugs in the back. Got one from the stealership fixed it then went on some wot runs. Every time blam and 4000 rpm power loss. I mean a kinda bang noise then no power. I couldn't figure it out. I was like damn valve float? All the troubleshooting I was doing on here . Then I figured out that the maf takes control of fueling at 4000 rpm. So I put my old maf on there and bam , no problems! Went back to oreilly and told them and they said were gonna replace the RPT maf with another RPT and if that one does the same thing we'll refund you. Same thing 4000 rpm wall. So I put the stock back on and haven't had a problem since. They gave me my money back and I was happy. I just posted this to keep any one from wasting their money on those crappy ,junk ,poorly made mafs. My stock mafs wires just don't look that shiny even after I clean them regularly, but it works fine so I don't care!!! And I don't know how they half *** programmed that thing or what but it felt like my engine did not like it! Felt horrible! Just fine if you drive your car like grandma all the time though. Lol

Last edited by celtsean; 02-23-2015 at 04:29 PM.



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