What Else During RMS Repair
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What Else During RMS Repair
Hi guys,
I've got a leaky rear main seal on my 2001 SS M6 (with nearly 190K, still runs great, does not burn oil, no major issues) that's slowly dripping, and now that the weather is getting warmer it's time to start ordering parts. I've read up on it quite a bit and I'm comfortable getting into it, but I am wondering from those who have done it, what else should I replace/repair while the tranny is out?
Also, is it absolutely necessary to drain the tranny before removal? Is it worth it? The previous owner(s) were absolute sticklers for maintenance and they weren't cheap either. I was not a seasoned vet with a manual before I bought the car at 176K, and I've done a few fairly hard grinds on it(much better and gentler now.) Is there a magnet that I can access easily if I drain the fluid?
I am guessing that I should replace the tranny mount as well. Are prothane/poly mounts the way to go for a daily driver?
There is (what seems to be) quite a bit of play in the driveline, and has been since i've owned it. Could that be from worn out U-Joints? Should I have those replaced as well?
I am definitely going to get an aligning tool for the rear main cover. Does anyone have an opinion on manufacturer? I've seen metal ones on evilbay, i've also seen the popular alignit tool from SCC
I sincerely appreciate any responses and help. Thanks!
Edit: Grammar and additional questions.
I've got a leaky rear main seal on my 2001 SS M6 (with nearly 190K, still runs great, does not burn oil, no major issues) that's slowly dripping, and now that the weather is getting warmer it's time to start ordering parts. I've read up on it quite a bit and I'm comfortable getting into it, but I am wondering from those who have done it, what else should I replace/repair while the tranny is out?
Also, is it absolutely necessary to drain the tranny before removal? Is it worth it? The previous owner(s) were absolute sticklers for maintenance and they weren't cheap either. I was not a seasoned vet with a manual before I bought the car at 176K, and I've done a few fairly hard grinds on it(much better and gentler now.) Is there a magnet that I can access easily if I drain the fluid?
I am guessing that I should replace the tranny mount as well. Are prothane/poly mounts the way to go for a daily driver?
There is (what seems to be) quite a bit of play in the driveline, and has been since i've owned it. Could that be from worn out U-Joints? Should I have those replaced as well?
I am definitely going to get an aligning tool for the rear main cover. Does anyone have an opinion on manufacturer? I've seen metal ones on evilbay, i've also seen the popular alignit tool from SCC
I sincerely appreciate any responses and help. Thanks!
Edit: Grammar and additional questions.
Last edited by jacobdztech; 03-10-2015 at 10:40 PM.
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What are the pros and cons of poly mounts vs factory?
Torque arm mount, or torque arm mount bushing?
I'm going to keep the factory rear end for now since I like to cruise on the highway.
Thank you for the replies.
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You'll read a lot of mixed reviews on poly vs rubber mounts.
The way I see it is like this, if you are going to swap to poly mounts, make the whole car poly.
As far as seals, I only used GM seals and 500 miles later my car is still dry as a can be. you only want to do this once so save yourself the headache and buy Genuine GM seals and gaskets. While you have the back cover off, go ahead and replace the barbell restriction plug that's back there. Cheap part and they become brittle with age and heat.
I reinstalled my back cover with no alignment tool, but I also had the motor out and the oil pan completely loose, allowing me to center the cover on the crank before tightening it. I've seen ppl use the tools and end up with a leaking seal. just take your time and verify the seal is facing the correct way before buttoning it back up.
The way I see it is like this, if you are going to swap to poly mounts, make the whole car poly.
As far as seals, I only used GM seals and 500 miles later my car is still dry as a can be. you only want to do this once so save yourself the headache and buy Genuine GM seals and gaskets. While you have the back cover off, go ahead and replace the barbell restriction plug that's back there. Cheap part and they become brittle with age and heat.
I reinstalled my back cover with no alignment tool, but I also had the motor out and the oil pan completely loose, allowing me to center the cover on the crank before tightening it. I've seen ppl use the tools and end up with a leaking seal. just take your time and verify the seal is facing the correct way before buttoning it back up.