Best small-game LS1 / WS6 upgrades?
08-14-2015, 06:35 PM
#22
Thanks for all the advice and information so far (and for getting my thread to the right part of the forum.)
I guess I've been working on that LT1 for so long I just assumed everything was the same.
I guess I've been working on that LT1 for so long I just assumed everything was the same.
08-15-2015, 11:07 AM
#23
By the way, is it normal for the throttle to kind of bounce between gears when going WOT? My guess was the computer was overriding the engine speed for a safe shift, but I don't actually know enough about these cars to be sure. It only happens if I'm absolutely flooring it.
08-16-2015, 02:52 AM
#24
They sell them because of internet "common wisdom" which isn't always so wise. Monkey see, monkey do. Having an engine run as cold as possible isn't the best. Engine are designed to run up a little higher. Aluminum and the other parts expand and their clearances are set for running temps. If it's 120* out a 185* stat or a 165* stat will both be wide open and you'll run the same engine temp and be limited by the water pump and radiator not the stat. The stat determines the bottom end, not the top. You're much better off just getting your fans reprogrammed when you get it tuned to come on at lower temps. I have my low speed fan coming on at 195* and the high speed at 200. No matter the temp it never gets above 195* unless I'm sitting stopped for a long time and then the high speed fan comes on.
To the op, the only thing a cooler stat does is allows the engine to get better performance cuz the air and fuel are cooler cuz the engine overall is cooler.
08-17-2015, 04:44 PM
#27
I'm still going the lid route first, but how do you guys feel about those FAST intake manifolds? Just buying one and getting a tune is a good upgrade (without having to get the bigger throttle body?) How big is too big and how small is too small?
08-18-2015, 08:54 AM
#29
Thanks for all the help so far, guys. Does anyone have any input on my throttle behavior?
At WOT there seems to be an air bubble and the throttle pedal pressure changes between gears, once in gear it returns to normal. I thought maybe the car was just over-riding my input for engine speed to shift safely, but I want to make sure I'm not hurting the car. I haven't WOT since feeling that.
At WOT there seems to be an air bubble and the throttle pedal pressure changes between gears, once in gear it returns to normal. I thought maybe the car was just over-riding my input for engine speed to shift safely, but I want to make sure I'm not hurting the car. I haven't WOT since feeling that.
08-20-2015, 01:21 PM
#31
If I buy an intake manifold (after lid/catback/stall/tune), do I have to get bigger fuel injectors, or will it run safely with just a tune?
Last edited by SouthernRex; 08-20-2015 at 01:35 PM.
08-20-2015, 06:03 PM
#33
Hahaha, that's how it feels. I'm like, OK, I'm just going to get a lid. OK, maybe a lid and an exhaust, I loved how magnaflow sounded on my Camaro. OK, I need it tuned too......
08-22-2015, 01:06 PM
#35
08-22-2015, 06:52 PM
#36
TECH Senior Member
The screen in front of the MAF is to straighten the airflow so the MAF can read it correctly...
some MAF's work ok without the screen, while other MAF's really need it;
I think you should leave the screen as is.
some MAF's work ok without the screen, while other MAF's really need it;
I think you should leave the screen as is.
08-23-2015, 06:40 PM
#39
Two more questions for you O.G.s.
On the 102 FAST LSXr
I can just put the EGR right in that hole right? I don't want to do any kind of sensor deletes.
Also, is the TB-coolant bypass anything that would trigger any kind of code or sensor problem? Where I live it's insanely hot 300 of the 356 days, I don't need my air warmed.
On the 102 FAST LSXr
I can just put the EGR right in that hole right? I don't want to do any kind of sensor deletes.
Also, is the TB-coolant bypass anything that would trigger any kind of code or sensor problem? Where I live it's insanely hot 300 of the 356 days, I don't need my air warmed.
