Best small-game LS1 / WS6 upgrades?
08-24-2015, 01:12 PM
#41
Yeah, I was looking at a 3200 stall with a trans cooler. The one I found was like a grand, are all the good ones that expensive? I don't mind paying a little more if it means not jack-hammering my transmission into the junkyard. I figured I'd be OK since I'm not going big cam and turbo etc.
08-27-2015, 12:40 AM
#42
On The Tree
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, I was looking at a 3200 stall with a trans cooler. The one I found was like a grand, are all the good ones that expensive? I don't mind paying a little more if it means not jack-hammering my transmission into the junkyard. I figured I'd be OK since I'm not going big cam and turbo etc.
It's going to drive like **** as a daily driver. Go ask for a ride in one with a stall.
08-27-2015, 04:27 PM
#43
08-27-2015, 08:00 PM
#44
plenty of people on here that have no issues daily driving their 3600-4000 stall , as long as its a quality brand lock up ( yank ,vigilante ,circle d etc..) and tuned properly with a good cooler its fine.
all the reputable stall manufacturers offer 1 free restall to get your purchase to be to your satisfaction , most go conservative then restall up into the 3600-4000 range. spend some time in the transmission section paying attention to stall advice and you will see what I am saying.
all the reputable stall manufacturers offer 1 free restall to get your purchase to be to your satisfaction , most go conservative then restall up into the 3600-4000 range. spend some time in the transmission section paying attention to stall advice and you will see what I am saying.
08-28-2015, 11:15 AM
#45
Two more questions for you O.G.s.
On the 102 FAST LSXr
Amazon.com: Fast 146302B LSXr Black 102 mm Intake Manifold: Automotive
I can just put the EGR right in that hole right? I don't want to do any kind of sensor deletes.
Also, is the TB-coolant bypass anything that would trigger any kind of code or sensor problem? Where I live it's insanely hot 300 of the 356 days, I don't need my air warmed.
On the 102 FAST LSXr
Amazon.com: Fast 146302B LSXr Black 102 mm Intake Manifold: Automotive
I can just put the EGR right in that hole right? I don't want to do any kind of sensor deletes.
Also, is the TB-coolant bypass anything that would trigger any kind of code or sensor problem? Where I live it's insanely hot 300 of the 356 days, I don't need my air warmed.
No rush, I know people have lives and are busy, just thought it might have been overlooked. Thanks for all the information so far, you guys are the best.
08-29-2015, 07:03 AM
#46
On The Tree
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
08-29-2015, 03:03 PM
#47
Oh my God, the raise/lower arm bar for the headlights will NOT COME OFF. I am trying to do the free headlight fix (rotating the plastic gear 180*). I have applied liquid wrench liberally like 6 times now and they feel welded. I'm not a weak guy either, and I'm scared I'm going to damage the motor or something somehow.
08-29-2015, 03:28 PM
#48
By the way, is it normal for the throttle to kind of bounce between gears when going WOT? My guess was the computer was overriding the engine speed for a safe shift, but I don't actually know enough about these cars to be sure. It only happens if I'm absolutely flooring it.
08-29-2015, 03:38 PM
#49
08-29-2015, 03:53 PM
#50
I'm sure someone is gonna buy an f body one of these days with traction control , but no button , lol ..
08-29-2015, 06:11 PM
#52
TECH Senior Member
Oh my God, the raise/lower arm bar for the headlights will NOT COME OFF. I am trying to do the free headlight fix (rotating the plastic gear 180*). I have applied liquid wrench liberally like 6 times now and they feel welded. I'm not a weak guy either, and I'm scared I'm going to damage the motor or something somehow.
Make sure the headlight is in a position as not to bind that arm up, making it harder to pull off. You did take the nut off right?
08-29-2015, 06:58 PM
#53
It won't even budge, after multiple applications it pulls the motor with it. Parts of it are starting to bend if I pull too hard, jeez with this thing.
09-05-2015, 03:18 PM
#54
The garage I brought it to only put 5 quarts of oil in it for an oil change (I could do this myself but I have a credit card with them.)
Doesn't this take 6? What the hell, I thought their computer told them by the engine. Was it dangerous driving home like this? I immediately put in a half a quart more, and the dipstick seems to say its OK now.
Doesn't this take 6? What the hell, I thought their computer told them by the engine. Was it dangerous driving home like this? I immediately put in a half a quart more, and the dipstick seems to say its OK now.
09-06-2015, 11:31 AM
#55
Look up on you tube for the headlight fix.
The oil change, the shop is dumb. It should take 6. But won't hurt anything with a quart low.
It won't hurt anything running the coolant bypass. I ran mine for years like that. The only thing it does is allow the throttle body to run cooler and allow the incoming air to maintain a lower temp for better fuel atomization, in turn allowing a better combustion process making slightly more power, probably nothing to be felt, but maybe seen in fuel mileage.
The more air you can get in and out, and faster, the more power the engine can make and run efficiently. One thing that a lot of people overlook when trying to get as much power out of their engine is a oil catch can. A catch can removes oil vapors from the pcv system allowing the fuel to maintain its proper octane rating so that the oil vapors don't get mixed into the fuel/ air mixture.
The oil change, the shop is dumb. It should take 6. But won't hurt anything with a quart low.
It won't hurt anything running the coolant bypass. I ran mine for years like that. The only thing it does is allow the throttle body to run cooler and allow the incoming air to maintain a lower temp for better fuel atomization, in turn allowing a better combustion process making slightly more power, probably nothing to be felt, but maybe seen in fuel mileage.
The more air you can get in and out, and faster, the more power the engine can make and run efficiently. One thing that a lot of people overlook when trying to get as much power out of their engine is a oil catch can. A catch can removes oil vapors from the pcv system allowing the fuel to maintain its proper octane rating so that the oil vapors don't get mixed into the fuel/ air mixture.
09-06-2015, 01:39 PM
#56
Look up on you tube for the headlight fix.
The oil change, the shop is dumb. It should take 6. But won't hurt anything with a quart low.
It won't hurt anything running the coolant bypass. I ran mine for years like that. The only thing it does is allow the throttle body to run cooler and allow the incoming air to maintain a lower temp for better fuel atomization, in turn allowing a better combustion process making slightly more power, probably nothing to be felt, but maybe seen in fuel mileage.
The more air you can get in and out, and faster, the more power the engine can make and run efficiently. One thing that a lot of people overlook when trying to get as much power out of their engine is a oil catch can. A catch can removes oil vapors from the pcv system allowing the fuel to maintain its proper octane rating so that the oil vapors don't get mixed into the fuel/ air mixture.
The oil change, the shop is dumb. It should take 6. But won't hurt anything with a quart low.
It won't hurt anything running the coolant bypass. I ran mine for years like that. The only thing it does is allow the throttle body to run cooler and allow the incoming air to maintain a lower temp for better fuel atomization, in turn allowing a better combustion process making slightly more power, probably nothing to be felt, but maybe seen in fuel mileage.
The more air you can get in and out, and faster, the more power the engine can make and run efficiently. One thing that a lot of people overlook when trying to get as much power out of their engine is a oil catch can. A catch can removes oil vapors from the pcv system allowing the fuel to maintain its proper octane rating so that the oil vapors don't get mixed into the fuel/ air mixture.
09-08-2015, 09:31 AM
#57
My windows intermittently stop working, but my radio (aftermarket) and post-run car power work perfectly.
Basically if I have the window move more than 10 inches at a time it will lock up and the button becomes completely unresponsive for 20-40 seconds and then I can move it another 5-10 inches.
Do you guys think that both of my window motors are going out at the same time, or is it the BCM so many people talk about? (I was reading the write-up on the soldering issue.)
I ask because it's just the windows, everything else is 100% without issue.
Basically if I have the window move more than 10 inches at a time it will lock up and the button becomes completely unresponsive for 20-40 seconds and then I can move it another 5-10 inches.
Do you guys think that both of my window motors are going out at the same time, or is it the BCM so many people talk about? (I was reading the write-up on the soldering issue.)
I ask because it's just the windows, everything else is 100% without issue.
09-13-2015, 10:29 PM
#59
Sorry for multiple posts. How do you guys feel about the Fast Toys Ram Air? There seems to be a lot of positive feedback, including from sites you guys recommended to me.
I was thinking my first mod then is the filter/lid while on the bottom part doing the free cut-out and the Fast Toys RamAir. It doesn't really seem that expensive.
I was thinking my first mod then is the filter/lid while on the bottom part doing the free cut-out and the Fast Toys RamAir. It doesn't really seem that expensive.