5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

Looking at picking up a stock 2002 SLP SS with 60k on the clock for around $12k and I'd like to turn it into a reliable 700+ to the wheels on the street, on 93 pump gas if possible and I need to be able to put that power to the tires. It won't be daily driven, but would prefer an adjustable suspension for trips to the track. I'm not sure who said "ls1's are cheap to mod" but I'm not finding this to be the case once you make the proper modifications to the rear end, transmission, fuel system, bottom end.. LOL! So taking all this into account, I'm looking at about $31.5K+ on top of the price of the car to have a setup that won't break. Can someone suggest a modification list to achieve this at a fraction of the cost, or is $30K+ what it takes?

Rear end
MWC rear end
Base package $2999 double adjustable torque arm Short (tunnel mounted)
35 spl Strange S-Trac diff unit +800.00
Black powder coating +150.00
Yukon 4.11 gears (correct gear ratio for this setup?)
Housing backbrace +150.00
MWC watts link +525.00
MWC adjustable torque arm
MWC chromoly adjustable lca's +185.00
MWC chromoly adjustable phb + 115.00
Bushing style
Subframe Connectors +140.00
Magnetic angle finder for setting up pinion angle 10.00
longer driveshaft for use with MWC - cost?

So this comes out to be around $5k. Now surely there are some cars on here running this much power and can suggest a cheaper street setup that still won't ever break on the track when launching hard?

Suspension
Afco adjustable coil over kit - $1500 (other options?)
PA-Racing front end kit - $469

Exhaust
American Racing Headers 2000 LS1 F-Body 1 7/8" x 3" Headers & Y-Pipe - $1400
Has Stock center mount SLP SS exhaust. Bolt right up? Is this cat back restrictive? - Would like to keep the center mount look. Suggestions?
Quick Time/FlowTech Electric Cut Out - $170

Transmission upgrades - $5150
RPM Stage V T-56
McLeod RST Street Twin Clutch kit
Mcloud SFI Bellhousing
Ram billet steel flywheel
Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit
Tick speed bleeder line
MGW T-56 Shifter

Power adder
ATI 1GJ204-SCI 98-02 Intercooled Race Kit D-1SC-1/F (8 Rib) - $6300

Engine
TSP 408 C.I.D. LQ9 Long-Block - $7k
FAST LSX-R Cathedral 102mm Intake & 102mm TB Combo FAST #146021-KIT fuel rail kit - $1520
Water pump?

Fuel
Siemens Deka 63# injectors - $360
Suggested options for delivery system? Pumps? Run a -8 line up for a new feed, and use the old stock feed for a return? Boost referenced regulator?

Tuning
HP Tuners VCM Suite - $500

Misc
SLP line lock $150
Gauges/Pod - $200

Wheel/Tire combo
26x10x15 et drags - $420
Weld RTS 71 10x15 - $680
Weld RTS 71 6.25x15 in front - $602
Tires for front $300

Please comment and critique. I'm new to the LS1 platform and I've always liked the 98-02 F-body.

conan

iTrader: (5)

Looks like a great list you have there.

For a 408ci I would go to the F1-A blower with the ASTER bracket. That will require you use a LS2 water pump, so that's your water pump taken care of too. I would also step up to 80# injectors and dual in-tank 340's. I would also look into Kook's 2" headers with Y pipe, put a cutout inbetween the catback and the Y. Look into a methanol injection system too.

What are you doing for a cam ?

Here's a few sponsors that might be of help Bob at brute speed can get your procharger needs done and Lonnie builds some awesome fuel systems.


http://www.lonniesperformance.com/

http://brutespeed.com/

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Thanks, I appreciate it!

I agree, I would go with an F-1A instead of the D-1SC, especially since it is going on a 408. Bob

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

You don't need the Watts link unless you're going to be road racing or autocrossing the car, and I would go with 3.70 gears.

http://shop.brutespeed.com/PST-DRA35...-PST-DRA35.htm
Here is a link to the driveshaft I would go with.

I would make sure you go with aftermarket cylinder heads which has a thicker deck, as this will help to keep the heads from lifting.

http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-1TE10...-Speed-Kit.htm
Take a look at the link here. I would go with the F-1A and the Aster bracket, and I would go with the front mount intercooler option and the truck hat and larger air filter. I would delete the injectors and pump and go with a Lonnies fuel system. Call me for a better price than what I have posted in this link.

I would have someone who is experienced in tuning these LS forced induction combinations do the tuning. If you do not know what you are doing, or are new to these engines and forced induction, it is easy to ruin an engine.

I would go with a 28 tall rear tire as it put a larger footprint on the ground, and doesn't shock the tire surface as hard. (Ex. o-O)

http://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Spe...d-Camshaft.htm
My camshaft has proven itself over the years and has powered these cars into the 8's in the 1/4.

Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks. Bob

gccasper04

iTrader: (4)

I would also like to point out a few things. A lot of guys are using a stock ls6 intake. It's been proven and depending on style. The fast intakes are known to split under boost. I'm making 900ish and I have a ls6 with stock throttle body.