ironmikektm525

I'm not really a newbie but didn't know where to post this. I have 99 t/a with full boltons(stock heads) ls6 intake other typical boltons/ 3:23 gear. I Plan on tranny rebuild/yank 3600. I was also thinking of doing the newera cam package(street sweeper) . Car has 133k on it with all maintance kept up. I know I'm good with converter after tranny rebuild but what do you guys think about the cam with my miles? Do you think a 11.9 would be possible with this combo? I ran car only once on street tires nt555 (12.9. 2.17 60ft at 109mph) I know I'd need dr's for sure with just converter. Thx

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

miles is a very subjective way to look at wear , it really depends how hard or easy those miles have been.

As for your 11.9 goal you surely don't need a cam for that, many stock internals full weight bolt on cars have been 11's with more miles than you have on them...

my 245,000 mile m6 stock internal full weight partial bolt on car went 11.9 when it had approx. 215k on it , my 3600 stalled a4 stock internals full weight partial bolt on 174k mile car went 12.1 but had a fuel starvation issue- it will crack 11's next time , I do wish it was a 4k stall though so think about that...

Your in NY so like myself you have plenty of opportunities spring & fall to race in negative DA , stall that bitch , add the good dr's your planning on run in good da and see how close you are , your 109 trap is good for mid/ low 12's as you stood the 1 time you took it to the track.

bandit1transam01

In regards to the cam swap, if the car seems like it's been well maintained, go for it. I cammed mine at 153k miles. Tore the engine down and it was in absolutely great condition. I just crossed 170k and the car still runs like new. Keep it maintained and you shouldn't have any problems as long as it's done right.

ironmikektm525

Thx for both your replies!!!! Man didn't think there was a chance of dipping in the 11's with just boltons/stall. That makes me feel pretty damn good lol. I'd be happy with lower 12's with boltons/stall. Id just have newera do the cam install( if I decide to ) as I'd have to bring it there for retune for converter. Boltons where added at approx 110k miles. Before that car was pretty well maintained. I really never understood the whole mph trap speed thing? But you said my 109 is capable of mid/lower 12's with just boltons? What approx times you guys think if I did cam/converter with my current setup? When should I worry about stock reared? Thx

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

How long it will last depends on how well it was taken care of. If you plan on keeping the car a while then I would get a built trans that will last.
I wouldn't be afraid to do a cam at all.

My car has almost 130k on it.
I did a ss3600 at 92k and best was a 11.9 1.6 60' stock internal with a little weight reduction.
I did h+c+i and 3.73 at 108k and best was a 10.9 1.5 60'
I decided to replace the stock trans with a flt4 and circle d 4k stall at 124k. The stock trans started bouncing 2-3 wot shift. Still drove great besides that. Havent tracked the car with new trans and stall but I figure .2 faster in the 1/4.
I am still on the stock 10 bolt BTW.

Has your car been taken care of all its life?

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

F bodies are great. My car when it was just bolt ons did 12.6 and yes stock stall... https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...ed-12-6-a.html

Got a 11.9 with the addition of ss600 stall and a little weight reduction...https://ls1tech.com/forums/11-second...id-inside.html

10.9 adding h+c+i+3.73...https://ls1tech.com/forums/10-second...-584-60-a.html

The stock 10bolt kinda sucks lol but you shouldn't worry about it a whole lot in an auto. Like I said, im still on the stock rear. It makes noise but I don't care

ironmikektm525

11.9 with boltons/stall? What weight reductions did you do? Those are some great times! I'd def get my tranny built while adding the converter. I'd be happy with a 1.8 60ft lol. I ran a 2.1. That's awesome your doing all this on the stock rear. Car was purchased in New Jersey off middle aged guy 100% stock. Could tell something was off due to lack of power. It needed a m.a.s./O2. Did plugs/wires/fluids . Made a huge diff in performance. Since boltons car has been very well maintained. I don't really beat on it much (occasional stop light race/roll on race) has good oil pressure. What dr's you running?

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Those times were with mickey Thompson drs. Stock zr1 wheels. I have tried hoosiers and they are awesome but not a good street tire. I am now running toyo tq drs which are a great street tire dr but I wouldn't try for a personal best at the track with them.

Weight reduction was the back seats, front pass seat, bumper supports, spare tire+jack, front sway bar and all the typical small stuff most of us get rid of.

ironmikektm525

Yeah I've heard good things about the mt's. Great info from all you guys! Thx what approx times for cam/converter/boltons you guys thinking? anybody else feel free to chime in with info like this. Times/60ft /before /after converter / cam/ect

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

your car is already trapping 109 with your current mods , with good traction it is capable of low to mid 12's with just adding sticky tires - nothing else , convertor should ensure low 12's after that.

Trap speed indicates power being made/potential for good et's. et's indicate how efficient you and your car are at getting down the track with current power level.

Trap and et are somewhat inter related but you can also look at them seperately to see where your strengths and weaknesses are as well as 60 foot , 330 , 1/8 et , 1/8 trap speed etc... they all help you isolate things you can improve upon. The other huge factor to learn when going for personal best et's is density altitude , this time of year provides some great dense air but also cooler track surface temps so sticky tires become even more important to getting your full potential , pulling front sway bar is also a great help in lowering 60 foots without spending $$ on suspension.

ironmikektm525

Appreciate your knowledge. I'll read into the trap speed thing. I just went from nt555 to nt05(both non r) . Nt05 are a bit more sticky as I hardly spin in 2nd anymore. Spun pretty good with nt555. Dead stop launch I would roast them. I didn't want dr's do to the miles I put on a year. I guess I have no choice exp when I do the converter. Wish I would've bought dr's and tried with my current setup. I have subframe conn/bmr control arms/C.E. Drag shocks. Car does really sqwat do to tire spin. What you thinking on approx e.t. If I did cam also? I know there's alot of variables just looking for ballpark. Mid 11's with good traction? Thx

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

Put good dr's on spare wheels you don't have to street drive them daily. I run nittos 555r's on 2 of my Camaros but swap to mt et streets for the track

cam et will depend on which cam , properly matching the stall to the cam , who tunes the combo and how well.

Get it to crack 11's stock internals first then you will have the track knowledge to get even better et's out of the cammed setup when you do it.

ironmikektm525

Yeah that makes sense. can't wait to feel the diff with the converter. I'm pretty set on the yank3600 from all the reading I've done. What's your reasoning for the 4000?

Mike TA

iTrader: (6)

I used a Yank 3600 in my 02 Pewter TA with an old Thunder Racing 224/224 cam (other mods in signature). I loved it. On a hard launch its going to burn the **** out of any tire but a drag radial or a slick but its still a hell of a lot of fun and its great to hit it on a roll. I never ran a stall higher than that but I found the Yank 3600 to be easy to live with even driving around town. I did not DD my car but I could have if I needed to.

I ran my stock 10 bolt with no issues at all and I was pretty hard on that car but I was very diligent about the maintenance. That was especially true when it came to the diff fluid as I knew I was pretty tough on it. The auto's are way easier on that rear, especially with a stall. Lots of guys on here with fast autos with the stock 10 bolt. The M6 is completely different. On the M6 car I am doing now I didnt even wait to grenade the 10 bolt, I went ahead and ordered a S60. I think you will be good to go as long as you aren't planning on running a DR or slick.

ironmikektm525

Thx for reply . I'd def need to run a dr . No on a slick. What times where you running with that setup? 60ft?

MonmouthCtyLS7

iTrader: (6)

If the car has been well maintained I wouldn't think twice about throwing a cam in, as for which one I would talk to a vendor being theres a million out there. 11.9 Is doable w/ the right stall and bolt ons.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I think "better late than never". Figure a cam worth having
will want new springs anyway, rockers are probably good
with inspection (older ones, prone to lose needles - find
any?). Converter may add to transmission stress and want
a non-clown tune that supports higher input torque (line
pressure at light-mid load, when load is now higher than
the PCM thinks it should be). Definitely not someone whose
bright idea is to fake MAF and VE air mass low, to get you
a lean WOT mixture - that there, eats many transmissions
on "free mods" cars (ported MAF etc., bad idea).

ironmikektm525

I plan on doing tranny rebuild/converter over the winter to have it ready for retune in the spring. I will decide if I'm gonna do the cam between winter/spring. If I do decide to do cam I'd go with neweras street sweeper cam package cam/springs/push rods/ timing chain and obviously have then tune it along with converter. Newera builds some serious cars! They did my uncles vette (707whp)along with a bunch of others I know. I work at a dodge dealer and a r/t challenger came in for tranny service. Had a whipple sc. Talked to owner and and he said newera did the work(505whp) I could do the cam install but so much easier picking it up ready to go lol. All depends on $ as I have other costly hobbies (off rd/ rc's ect) def doing tranny rebuild/converter though.There's always the plastic lol

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

my reasoning on 4k stall is you get 1 free restall and you see tons of posts on here saying wish I went higher on stall vs wish I went lower- if you don't like it get some et's on the big stall then tone it down lol best of both worlds.

my 3600 is very streetable - a quality brand stall will feel tighter than a lower stall from a lesser quality manufacturer

ironmikektm525

Oh ok. Yes very true on wish I went higher posts. Read a lot of them to no lower. That's something to think about.