JustinWs6

I own a 2001 Ws6 with only 57k on it. I installed the comp cam 218/224 .528/535 LSA114 , Harland sharp 1.7 roller rocker arms, Molly 7.4 push rods, Molly valve springs(.660),42Lb green tops, pacesetter LTH , MSD 8.5mm, and NGK TR-5B plugs ( Platnium iradiums). The car already had the SLP Lid ,SLP exhaust,and 80mm TB on it. I drilled a 3/16" hole through my TB plate and I been adjusting my IAC with my TB adjustment screw while disconnecting the battery to reset the computer. The motor will barely start or it idles high around 1100 Rpms. The only code it's throwing is P0122. Any suggestions??? Oh yeah and it's stock tuned..

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

Non stock Cam/injectors and headers....It's going to need a tune.

JustinWs6

I'm planning on getting it tuned, just trying to get it running until then.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

You risk doing serious damage without getting a tune, You could get a mail order tune to get it running. The code it's throwing could be from you messing with the IAC and TB. Did it throw code before you started jacking with them?

JustinWs6

Yeah it was originally throwing P0300 & P0122. But I rechecked my wires and p0300 went away.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

42lbs injectors are grossly oversized for this poorly researched combination. There is a real risk that by dumping probably 60% too much fuel through it because of the giant injectors and no tune you might have already done damage.
If you insist on continuing to run it put the stock injectors in as long as it is on the stock tune. Also change the oil first as it is likely full of fuel.

gagliano7

^^^^ As 96capricemgr said your injectors are your problem since you aren't tuned. Hopefully you didn't wash down the cylinders and fill up the crank case with fuel. Put the stockers back in until it is tuned and change your oil.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

You're not going to magically be able to keep a stock tuned car running that has aftermarket cam, injectors and LTs just by messing with the throttle.

Cam and LTs maybe, but it will struggle. But as soon as you introduce bigger injectors it's over...you need a tune otherwise it won't run as you saw.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Did you tune for the injectors? If not take them back out. Oh and slap yourself in the face a few times for drilling a hole in your throttle body. cause its was stupid!

N20zuki

Good job screwing up a throttle body that problem will haunt you forever now until you replace it.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

You can't treat this like a carb'ed setup, where you swap a cam and then play with the carb and distributor until it runs well. A tuning suite and/or having a custom tune done will be required for these kinds of changes. You'll have to go back and undo everything you've done so far regarding the throttle body, and then get it tuned properly. Sounds like you have an aftermarket TB, not sure if you can buy a replacement blade separately (this is not possible for the stock TB), if not then you'll probably have to fill the hole with JB Weld to eliminate the "cruise control" effect (some people are opposed to this "fix", but I had one that way for many years without issues.) The stock hole size was 5/32", probably a metric equivalent actually, so even if you close the blade as far as possible, using the set screw, before it sticks I'm still not sure if you can get away with a 3/16" hole without having some issues.

JustinWs6

Thanks guys for the info. I already installed the stock injectors. And tomorrow I will be changing the oil and the plugs. My original plan was to drive the car with the 42lb injectors to the local tuner that's the only reason why I was trying to get it to idle.. It's not a daily driver.. From me messing with it I do believe i flooded it. But today I hand cranked the motor over a few times and it has good compression still and it's still smooth.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

So now you still need to fix the TB, I would not run platinum plugs in a modified car, platinum and iridium are about longevity not performance.

The roller rockers while a standard mod on older engines didn't need to be considered till you added .100 lift to the to low lift cam you chose. It looks like you got guidance from someone who was knowledge DECADES ago and stopped learning before the car was build. Research first and find people who are willing to tell you you are wrong. People like vendors who sell them what they ask for but if you are asking for the wrong thing is that good? Did you discuss your plan with the timer?

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

Why would you say that? There are quite a few people running them and some running some serious boost and love them.

JustinWs6

My car is a little bit of a ***** , some of the parts I have where hand me downs . LTH, roller rockers, injectors, and some suspension mods. I chose the low lift cam for the driveabilty factor. I was debating between the 218,LS6 cam and a couple of other mild cams.I choose to put the roller rockers on for improved valve stability even though they are a little heavier. They are OEM. So today I pulled the plugs drained the oil and replaced the plugs, oil and filter. And let me tell you the oil was trashed with fuel I did wash it down...�� I think the only thing that saved my *** is it was brand new oil and filter. I did set my TB back , my ECU isn't throwing the P0122 code anymore. And yes I ditched the Platnium's and went with TR'6s(gap.050) Read nothing but good write ups on them over the TR-55's. She runs strong fired rite up little noisy for a few seconds. Now she idles great and drives smooth. The only complaint is the little bit of noise I here from the roller rockers...

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I would have gone with the TR55s for your application. No need for the colder plug with such a mild setup.

JustinWs6

So now I'm curious about the chattering, I put about 50 miles on her and she ran good last nite. Today before I left for work I fired her up and she ran good but seemed a little more noisier . So I rechecked the oil and I can still smell fuel a little bit and on the dip stick the first inch was a little black. How many oil changes do you guys think it will take to flush the fuel all out?? This weekend I'm going to do a dual compression test on the cylinders to check for loss of compression. I'm worried about having piston & sleeve damage. Also I was thinking about using a top end cleaner cause I'm sure I have alot of gummed up fuel and oil deposits. Any recommendations for a good foaming top end cleaner, I'd appreciate it.

N20zuki

Why are you driving this thing around untuned? You said you were trying to get it running to get to the tuner, stop "putting miles on it" and get it tuned... You are going to hurt the motor.

JustinWs6

I only took it out for a drive to try and flush it out. And believe me when I say this I never took it above 3500rpm. With me putting the larger injectors in and trying to get it to run im worried I did damage from "flooding-in". Im worried about the tuner , dyno tuneing it and doing more damage under load. So I was thinking about getting a mail order tune by frost while I do the compression test or leak-down test over the next weekends.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

The only way to flush it out is to change the oil.

If you take it to a proper tuner then there's nothing to worry about. He/she will put in a base tune for the injectors so that the car runs without flooding it, then it will get tuned properly so there's no damage.

Now if you're worried about the tuner, then you may need to take it to someone else. You have to have faith in your tuner, otherwise it won't work.