Best mods for the money
06-10-2016, 11:42 PM
#1
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Best mods for the money I have an all stock 5.7 ls1 Trans am and about 1.5k to spend on it and would like to know what y'all have done to yalls cars and what would the best mods for the money be horsepower wise. Thanks.
06-10-2016, 11:54 PM
#2
Auto or stick?
Auto, stall. Stick, gears. 243 heads are a great, affordable upgrade along with LS6 intake. Then a good tune. Probably get that done for around $1500 if you do the work yourself. Next round, headers, exhaust, cam, retune.
You'll save money long term of you save another $800-$1000 and do headers and cam at the same time as the above.
Auto, stall. Stick, gears. 243 heads are a great, affordable upgrade along with LS6 intake. Then a good tune. Probably get that done for around $1500 if you do the work yourself. Next round, headers, exhaust, cam, retune.
You'll save money long term of you save another $800-$1000 and do headers and cam at the same time as the above.
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06-11-2016, 10:24 AM
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Auto or stick?
Auto, stall. Stick, gears. 243 heads are a great, affordable upgrade along with LS6 intake. Then a good tune. Probably get that done for around $1500 if you do the work yourself. Next round, headers, exhaust, cam, retune.
You'll save money long term of you save another $800-$1000 and do headers and cam at the same time as the above.
Auto, stall. Stick, gears. 243 heads are a great, affordable upgrade along with LS6 intake. Then a good tune. Probably get that done for around $1500 if you do the work yourself. Next round, headers, exhaust, cam, retune.
You'll save money long term of you save another $800-$1000 and do headers and cam at the same time as the above.
06-11-2016, 12:14 PM
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06-11-2016, 02:27 PM
#13
Quality Torque converter/cam + supporting hardware. I wish I had $1,500 to buy exactly that.
06-11-2016, 02:54 PM
#14
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Quality torque converter and a good transmission cooler and Drag Radials are the best bang for the buck besides Nitrous. ...
I would honestly like to buy a totally stock car and do those mods and be done. It will suprise the **** out of people
I would honestly like to buy a totally stock car and do those mods and be done. It will suprise the **** out of people
06-11-2016, 06:55 PM
#15
This ^ 3600-4000 rpm stall from yank , circle d , fti etc ...QUALITY brands only , big cooler and the car will be night and day different.
headers/lid might gain you 2-5 tenths stall will gain you .6 to a full second , no delay to get into powerband , step on it and its right there , shift extension gets optimized as well with a stall so it doesn't drop out of the powerband on shifts.
06-11-2016, 08:45 PM
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Like everyone else here said, an aftermarket stall converter will be the best bang for your buck on an auto car. Then an aftermarket lid, and a lid is a lid, so pick up a slp or one used in the classifieds. Then do long tubes and either true duals or y pipe & a cutout. Assuming that you are doing all the work yourself, $1500 still doesn't leave enough for a stall, long tubes, y pipe or true duals, and a lid, because after drag radials and the car tuned, you will be in the negative.
No matter what, the stall will give you the best performance, gaining .5-.8 tenths in the quarter mile. The lid is usually the first mod though, because it's 7-10rwhp and you can pick a used one up for $50-$75. I sold my slp with 6k miles on it for $50 Then long tube headers and either y pipe or true duals will be the next best bang for the buck.
I personally would do a stall, lid, long tubes, y pipe with a cutout, and tune. Get the tires as soon as you can, but they will be a must because when you floor it from a dig you will literally burn the tires right off.
No matter what, the stall will give you the best performance, gaining .5-.8 tenths in the quarter mile. The lid is usually the first mod though, because it's 7-10rwhp and you can pick a used one up for $50-$75. I sold my slp with 6k miles on it for $50 Then long tube headers and either y pipe or true duals will be the next best bang for the buck.
I personally would do a stall, lid, long tubes, y pipe with a cutout, and tune. Get the tires as soon as you can, but they will be a must because when you floor it from a dig you will literally burn the tires right off.
06-12-2016, 08:10 AM
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Like everyone else here said, an aftermarket stall converter will be the best bang for your buck on an auto car. Then an aftermarket lid, and a lid is a lid, so pick up a slp or one used in the classifieds. Then do long tubes and either true duals or y pipe & a cutout. Assuming that you are doing all the work yourself, $1500 still doesn't leave enough for a stall, long tubes, y pipe or true duals, and a lid, because after drag radials and the car tuned, you will be in the negative.
No matter what, the stall will give you the best performance, gaining .5-.8 tenths in the quarter mile. The lid is usually the first mod though, because it's 7-10rwhp and you can pick a used one up for $50-$75. I sold my slp with 6k miles on it for $50 Then long tube headers and either y pipe or true duals will be the next best bang for the buck.
I personally would do a stall, lid, long tubes, y pipe with a cutout, and tune. Get the tires as soon as you can, but they will be a must because when you floor it from a dig you will literally burn the tires right off.
No matter what, the stall will give you the best performance, gaining .5-.8 tenths in the quarter mile. The lid is usually the first mod though, because it's 7-10rwhp and you can pick a used one up for $50-$75. I sold my slp with 6k miles on it for $50 Then long tube headers and either y pipe or true duals will be the next best bang for the buck.
I personally would do a stall, lid, long tubes, y pipe with a cutout, and tune. Get the tires as soon as you can, but they will be a must because when you floor it from a dig you will literally burn the tires right off.
