Window motor or "window regulator"?
06-20-2016, 02:27 PM
#1
Window motor or "window regulator"? What is the difference? My 1998 Firebird TransAm WS6 has the power windows going out. (At 40,000 miles? Jesus Christ, GM.) The driver window is completely gone, and the passenger window is getting worse every day.
The shop near my house wants like $500 a door. Uh.... I can get the motor for $25 bucks and my friend said he'll help me install it (he's done it on other F-body cars, power drill and all.)
But I don't know the difference between a motor and regulator, and is replacing them different?
The shop near my house wants like $500 a door. Uh.... I can get the motor for $25 bucks and my friend said he'll help me install it (he's done it on other F-body cars, power drill and all.)
But I don't know the difference between a motor and regulator, and is replacing them different?
06-20-2016, 02:49 PM
#2
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If the window is still going up and down straight and smoothly, but just super slow or stopping until you let it cool down for a while, then the regulator is fine and you just need a new motor.
I wouldn't dream of paying $500 per door. There are some great online instructions for doing this repair yourself, here is a link:
http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
I wouldn't dream of paying $500 per door. There are some great online instructions for doing this repair yourself, here is a link:
http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
06-20-2016, 06:46 PM
#3
OK, that actually makes sense. The regulator is a totally different part, I'm up to speed now. Thank you, sir.
And, yeah, that dealership wonders why they are a laughing stock of the town (I used to work there.) GM sets their prices, I get it, but just LMFAO @ $470 in labor a door.
They wanted about $1500 to change the optispark on my old LT1, and that was with me providing the part. "taking the water pump off is 3 hours, this is 3 hours, putting it back on is 3 hours".
Unreal.
And, yeah, that dealership wonders why they are a laughing stock of the town (I used to work there.) GM sets their prices, I get it, but just LMFAO @ $470 in labor a door.
They wanted about $1500 to change the optispark on my old LT1, and that was with me providing the part. "taking the water pump off is 3 hours, this is 3 hours, putting it back on is 3 hours".
Unreal.
06-21-2016, 02:34 AM
#4
I recently replaced a power window motor in my Camaro. Rather than remove the entire regulator to swap the motor, I drilled out the factory rivets by drilling straight through the inside of the door shell... and the new reg simply bolted in fairly easily.
I thought I was doing the right thing purchasing a factory GM replacement, but seems I may have had better luck with a no name chinese brand because the motor is playing up again.. seems to skip as it moves up. And I greased all the window tracks and adjusted it properly while I was there, it worked flawlessly for a while now it's erratic
I thought I was doing the right thing purchasing a factory GM replacement, but seems I may have had better luck with a no name chinese brand because the motor is playing up again.. seems to skip as it moves up. And I greased all the window tracks and adjusted it properly while I was there, it worked flawlessly for a while now it's erratic
06-21-2016, 11:05 AM
#5
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-742-101-Chevrolet-Pontiac-Window/dp/B000C16XPI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1466527144&veh icle=1998-52-595-631--7-6-7-1441--1-1---2-0&sr=1-1&ymm=1998%3Apontiac%3Afirebird&keywords=window+mo tor
Will this one work? I don't know if there's a specific part number per year or something.
Will this one work? I don't know if there's a specific part number per year or something.
Last edited by SouthernRex; 06-21-2016 at 11:39 AM.
06-21-2016, 11:47 AM
#6
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The motor contains a thermal cutout which is too low
a "setting" to get the job done once things get crusty.
If your problem is the window only making it part way
and then quits, but works the rest of the way in a few
minutes, this is the problem. You can "fix" it by soldering
a wire across the little thermostat arm inside the motor
end cap. There are writeups on this. Safety is your call.
No toddlers in my car, so fine.
a "setting" to get the job done once things get crusty.
If your problem is the window only making it part way
and then quits, but works the rest of the way in a few
minutes, this is the problem. You can "fix" it by soldering
a wire across the little thermostat arm inside the motor
end cap. There are writeups on this. Safety is your call.
No toddlers in my car, so fine.
06-21-2016, 11:50 AM
#7
The motor contains a thermal cutout which is too low
a "setting" to get the job done once things get crusty.
If your problem is the window only making it part way
and then quits, but works the rest of the way in a few
minutes, this is the problem. You can "fix" it by soldering
a wire across the little thermostat arm inside the motor
end cap. There are writeups on this. Safety is your call.
No toddlers in my car, so fine.
a "setting" to get the job done once things get crusty.
If your problem is the window only making it part way
and then quits, but works the rest of the way in a few
minutes, this is the problem. You can "fix" it by soldering
a wire across the little thermostat arm inside the motor
end cap. There are writeups on this. Safety is your call.
No toddlers in my car, so fine.
This is the way my passenger side behaves, but my driver side doesn't budge an inch (you can hear the click under the dash with the button press, still.)
