402/408 stroker 6.0L Stock 243 heads
06-28-2016, 11:59 AM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
402/408 stroker 6.0L Stock 243 heads Sorry I'm new to LS/american blocks.
So I have the opportunity to pick up a Ls2 block, completely disassembled (He does mention it can be reassembled together to run it that way). So maybe the short block is still intact.
For one, is $2,000 good for an almost complete engine block with Ls6 intake, and no front cover?
I want to put some money into opening it up with either a 402 or 408 stroker kit, or getting the heads worked on. Any guidance?
So I have the opportunity to pick up a Ls2 block, completely disassembled (He does mention it can be reassembled together to run it that way). So maybe the short block is still intact.
For one, is $2,000 good for an almost complete engine block with Ls6 intake, and no front cover?
I want to put some money into opening it up with either a 402 or 408 stroker kit, or getting the heads worked on. Any guidance?
06-29-2016, 06:45 PM
#3
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's an LS2 aluminium block. Not sure on miles though. It's going to be a somewhat long term project, gathering various pieces. But I did want to try and focus on getting either a deal on a block or Fbody/ GTO T56.
06-30-2016, 09:25 AM
#5
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Southern NJ
Posts: 634
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you are going to stroke it why not start with a new block? A new LS2 block can be had for around $1200. Good used heads, better for your displacement goal, can be had pretty cheap.
Just a thought.
Good luck
Just a thought.
Good luck
06-30-2016, 05:06 PM
#7
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Or could I just purchase the whole engine, maybe get the block cleaned up to 4.005", put back in the oem rotating assembly with new rings, and just spend the money on new cams and head work? And just forget about stroking it out for now.
Trending Topics
06-30-2016, 05:10 PM
#8
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Budget, as I go. I have to spend quite a bit on the Swap kit, wiring(maybe), headers and exhaust. I have the suspension good to go and rear end with a 3.69 final drive gear. Just need the power now.
06-30-2016, 05:23 PM
#9
Yes unless you already have a bunch of parts, know-how, tools, and TIME then I'd suggest getting an assembled motor. You can use 243 heads with the 4" bore, or L92 heads.
From a reputable shop you know it was built right and clearances spec'd.
Since you're new to pushrods and LS motors... how do you know seller will include everything since its torn down? Understand a missing cover will cost you $40, hardware gets stupid quick, distorted block is worthless, scratched or previously bored aluminum block is worthless, and so much more that add more machine cost or more nickel and dime parts.
I've seen enough "good running low mileage" motors with cracked liners (cannot be repaired without full sleeve work) or other damage making it unusable. Also seen 8 bent rods that look fine with heads off, out of round bores you can't tell without a mic, stripped block, cracked webbing, split water jackets..... there's a lot to consider if you want a one and done motor.
From a reputable shop you know it was built right and clearances spec'd.
Since you're new to pushrods and LS motors... how do you know seller will include everything since its torn down? Understand a missing cover will cost you $40, hardware gets stupid quick, distorted block is worthless, scratched or previously bored aluminum block is worthless, and so much more that add more machine cost or more nickel and dime parts.
I've seen enough "good running low mileage" motors with cracked liners (cannot be repaired without full sleeve work) or other damage making it unusable. Also seen 8 bent rods that look fine with heads off, out of round bores you can't tell without a mic, stripped block, cracked webbing, split water jackets..... there's a lot to consider if you want a one and done motor.
06-30-2016, 05:34 PM
#10
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's exactly why I haven't really pounced on it. Though, I have been looking over the schematics for the block and heads, and checking prices on each piece. Yeah, it definitely does start adding up.
There's a guy locally selling iron block 6.0 408 stroker for $2700, and from what it sounds like, maybe the block is included in the price. I know stroker kits go for 2-$2400, and if you add in the work, that can take it up to $3000. Your thoughts?
There's a guy locally selling iron block 6.0 408 stroker for $2700, and from what it sounds like, maybe the block is included in the price. I know stroker kits go for 2-$2400, and if you add in the work, that can take it up to $3000. Your thoughts?
06-30-2016, 06:01 PM
#11
Well mine isn't a typical build..... so numbers are skewed. Heads alone cost north of 3 grand. 408 part of it cost several grand. Top end cost another couple grand. None of this considers the fuel system, suspension to handle the power, tuning, or other nickels and dimes like brackets.
07-01-2016, 06:34 PM
#12
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How about starting with a l76 shortblock, 85k miles, and just sourcing parts to it?
I think I can get a nice deal on the whole engine, but just utilize the short block. And sell off the other parts.
I think I can get a nice deal on the whole engine, but just utilize the short block. And sell off the other parts.
