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Old 01-08-2017, 10:29 PM
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Default LS1 Rebuild

Hey guys

I'm looking for a lil advice and tips on rebuilding my LS1 in my 2000 Trans Am. I'm a resident of FT Worth TX and I've had a few problems trying to find either a trusted shop or a shop that has time to rebuild this engine for me with out trying to rip me apart for something that's a recreational 3rd vehicle for me. I'm mostly looking to get an idea on what all parts I'll need and what are some decent upgrades I'd like to go with cam, headers and exhaust can someone point me in the direction on which brands to go with that are easy on the pocket. I'm not looking to build a race car just want to have a fresh reliable car with some power and sound nasty that one time a week I'll drive it. And what all should be included on an LS1 rebuild? It has a 148k miles all stock t-top automatic pretty decent car just want to add more to it. If anyone knows any local shops in the DFW area please let me know. I've been quoted $1700 already not looking to price match just want the best for my car. Thanks
Old 01-09-2017, 06:44 AM
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Why does it need a rebuild?
If its been taken care of and runs great, the mileage is almost irrelevant.

$1700 for a removal and rebuild is not a bad price.
Old 01-09-2017, 01:09 PM
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I just would like it to be rebuilt. The previous owner didn't take as good of care of it as I would have and I'm just picky about my cars. I've always wanted a built up nice f-body. It runs and drives but nothing exciting if you know what I mean it could use the rebuild.
Old 01-09-2017, 01:17 PM
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Up to you. Unless there is an actual problem, no sense in rebuilding it.

There are probably 1000 stories a year here about someone having a perfectly good engine rebuild "because they wanted to" by some shady machine shop and then come here to complain in 2 weeks about a spun rod bearing.

It happens, look it up.
Old 01-09-2017, 06:35 PM
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agree with Joe nova - your chances are better for it to last another 100k if you leave it alone vs. opening it up.

If its not too "exciting" as you say with an automatic car do a nice 3500-4000 quality stall such as a Yank 3600 and it will act like it has another 100 hp , if you plan to cam it later on you will need a good stall or it will be slower (search turd stick on here) so do the stall first along with a tranny cooler and trans tune.

Then you can do all the popular bolt ons long tubes , ls6 or fast intake , true duals etc... and you will be shocked how strong it is.
Old 01-10-2017, 03:36 PM
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See "Fat Kid Racing" in Saginaw.
Old 01-10-2017, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by murphinator
agree with Joe nova - your chances are better for it to last another 100k if you leave it alone vs. opening it up.

If its not too "exciting" as you say with an automatic car do a nice 3500-4000 quality stall such as a Yank 3600 and it will act like it has another 100 hp , if you plan to cam it later on you will need a good stall or it will be slower (search turd stick on here) so do the stall first along with a tranny cooler and trans tune.

Then you can do all the popular bolt ons long tubes , ls6 or fast intake , true duals etc... and you will be shocked how strong it is.
I'll need to rebuild it's got some engine noise that's not bad but it makes not want to drive it. Previous owner was hard on it seems like.
Old 01-10-2017, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by cookseyb
See "Fat Kid Racing" in Saginaw.
Can't look it up. It only shows a chubby Hispanic kid running in a race on youtube.
Old 01-10-2017, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
Up to you. Unless there is an actual problem, no sense in rebuilding it.

There are probably 1000 stories a year here about someone having a perfectly good engine rebuild "because they wanted to" by some shady machine shop and then come here to complain in 2 weeks about a spun rod bearing.

It happens, look it up.
This does happen unfortunately. I had an old gen 1 383 assembled at a machine shop that was local to me probably 10 years ago. Picked up some used heads picked up some used ported head to have them assemble as well, locks, retainers springs etc. Put is all together and noticed the oil looked like chocolate milk. Found out the ported heads had a hole in the water jacket and they dumped water all through the engine. Over the years I have learned to be very skeptical about any shop and only take my car there if its absolutely necessary. Tough to find one you can trust it seems.
Old 01-10-2017, 07:33 PM
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you didn't mention engine noise earlier when asked by Joe why it needed a rebuild.

What type of noise ? top end ? lower end ? only when cold ? does the noise increase with rpm even when warmed up ?

biggest reason I ask is LS1's are notorious for being noisy until up to temp , this is attributed to "piston slap" until the pistons and bores come up to temp and expand and the noise goes away. This noise is not present on every one I have had 4 LS1 Camaro's to date and only one is really loud and that is my M6 car with 255,000 miles on it , the guy who owned it 2 owners ago said it sounded the same when he bought it at 89k , I have no intentions to rebuild/replace it until it shoves a rod out the oil pan lol and at that point I would still not rebuild anything I would find the best miles vs. price pullout and put it in- I would love to find a 148K low miles one for a spare lol.

I was the same with 3800 supercharged cars before I am a moderator still on one of the 3800 forums and have watched with great predictability over the last 10 years not just rebuilds but anything that even has the heads off end up in problems while crusty 180k mile junkyard engines stay together. I trust GM assembly , machine work , and components if your engine is toast go find a replacement long block is my advice whether its another ls1 , ls6 , 6 liter etc... unless your goals are faster than high 11's there is no good reason for a valve cover to have been off your engine.
Old 01-10-2017, 09:41 PM
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^^ I agree with everything the Murphinator says above, except that there are some shops that do build good, reliable over the long haul engines.

Hopefully the shop that rebuilt my son's 3800 is one of them. But I would never open up a good running engine just for being "noisy". A real problem like a failed lifter or spun bearing would be obvious.

My LS1 A4 has 151k and is going as strong as when I first bought it at 33k. And it's noisy as hell with piston slap on cold days.



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