Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

I just put 3.42s in my car and it came stock w/ 2.73s. Now my shifts are about at 6500. I think i may even be hitting my rev limited because the car gets really weak b4 it shifts.

What is the best place to set the car to shift when i get a programmer?
Also any information about what the best speeds to race from a roll would be appreciated.

God of Thunder

racing from a roll is when a torque converter would come in handy, i think. if you were hitting your rev limiter you would know it, you would be able to hear it. go rev up your engine until it starts sounding like a jackhammer, built by nascar. all cars are different so you may just have play around with your shift points until you find something that works. it sounds like your just out of your powerband if it gets weak b4 shifts. i may be wrong about all thins, but i have hit my rev limiter a few times so trust me about that

elderon

I hope your not really redlining at 6500 because thats TOO high for a stock engine. Unless the tuning was changed from stock it should be redlining at 6000 RPMS. You might want to check on that.

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

i havent changed the pcm since i got my new 3.42, the car come stock w/ 2.73s . Could that be why its redlining too hight or could it by my tune just got messed up?

elderon

Perhaps your gauge is just off. The computer will cut off the engine at 6000 rpms unless its been changed.

Colonel

The stock shift points are 5800-6000 (depends on year and which shift you're talking about.) The stock rev limit is about 6200.

Changing the gearing shouldn't change that.

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

my guage must be wrong or it has been changed because it goes well past 6000. I hope to get it tuned soon i guess they will be able to help me. Thanks for the info.

RahuL

iTrader: (10)

sorry to post off topic, but how do you like the LM ? any drone or rasp? I have the same car as yours and trying to decide between the LM and the Magnaflow...

elderon

https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-owners-newbie-tech/185484-loudmouths-scary.html

There is a post to look at. Does it drone? Yes at certain speeds it does. In mine it was between about 1600-1800 rpms - highway speeds for a 2:73 rear. Its a bit raspy with headers and no cats, but then the droning went away. I love mine though. Its like a cutout at WOT.

Azrael

iTrader: (10)

Wouldn't the gearing effect how the computer translates the shift points though, since the rpms at various speeds are going to be higher with the taller gears? SWAG (scientific wild *** guess) if the computer shifted into 3rd at 1800 rpm at 40 mph now his car reaches 40 mph at 2000 rpm...

I could be wrong...

elderon

The computer bases the shift points on the MPH, and if you don't change the speedo calibration it will shift exactly as before and according to your speedo nothing has changed. Once you calibrate your speedo it may throw it off. Once I calibrated my speedo though, I calibrated my shift points. I just changed mine to 6190 rpms. ( i upped my redline to 6200 ) My predator allows you to shift by speed or by rpms. I go with rpms.

Azrael

iTrader: (10)

Well the whole point is the speedo will be off with a gear change since it is calibrated using rpm (pcm/computer calibration or a speedo gear - unsure with the 4L60E) but having done ring and pinion swaps on Ford trannies I know that the speedo will be off unless it gets reprogrammed/calibrated because of the gear change. Same thing as changing the diameter of tire or wheel from stock. Usually it is a function of the gearing and over all outer OD of the tires that make up the rpm variable calculation for the speedometer.

Just curious, but with a gear change his speedo is not reading correctly either so with your explanation you just tend to back up what I said with my original post.

RahuL

iTrader: (10)

did you have Cats ?

Btw, I have the GU5 [3.23 gears] option on my A4 TA

elderon

Im not disputing your explanation dude. Im just saying aside from knowing my speedo was off, the car still says the same rpms at the same speed as before, and shifts at the same points as before. It just dosen't know you arent' REALLy going the speed it thinks. Im just going by my experience with it, I'm certainly no expert!



BlownGTX - I have no cats now. I had cats when the rest of the exhaust was stock, but I removed them with an offroad y pipe when I did my headers.

Azrael

iTrader: (10)

Sorry dude I didn't mean to sound like I was arguing, in anyway... Matter of fact I am less an expert on LS1s than I am on building a 302 or D351 block Ford, with or without an T5/T45/T56 or E4OD/AODE Ford tranny with a 8.8 or 9.75 Ford Rear...

To tell you the truth I was just posting an observation and in actuality thought you were basically backing me up with a look at it through another view point... *shrug*

Colonel

elderon is dead on. The speedo will be off by exactly the amount of the gear change (assuming that it was right before.) Anyway, the speedo will read the same at 6000 in a given gear as it did before. So, the shifts will be the same. If you go calibrating the speedo incorrectly that can be a different story.

BTW, earlier LS1s shifted based solely off of MPH. Later ones ('01s and up I think) shift on MPH AND RPM meaning that both programmed parameters have to be met for the shift to take place. I like that better because I can raise my RPM, leaving the MPH alone, and get precise shifts at the RPM I want rather than having to calculate MPH.

elderon

No problem man, I wasn't being confrontational either............