SpeedSin

OK, so Ive made the decision to change from mineral to synthetic. What do you guys think about Royal Purple? I can get a killer deal from work thats why Ive considered using it. Also just to get as many opinions as possible, I have about 69k on my WS6, it is wise to change to syn right? I appreciate any advise or help you guys can offer...

-Adam

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I went to synthetic in my 01 Z at 77K miles. I went with the bandwagon Mobil 1 5w30 though

My SS got synthetic at 12K miles.

zamboxl

iTrader: (1)

never eve go back to regular.

68birdls1

iTrader: (46)

if you can get royal purple for a good price, then by all means hop on it! it is a great product!

natronathon

royal purple is too expensive!!

I got Mobil 0W40 and I love it. My car idles much smoother, runs smoother when cold, has less valve train nose when hood is open, and I think it revs up slightly faster. Id reccomend this oil to everyone! Its easy to find, and Patman (resident oil expert) gives it a good reccomendation. I think my car even runs about 2-3 degrees cooler on summer afternoons in city traffic.

just my $.02

ZR2877

Since you are getting a deal on it I say go for it. I also agree with natronathon about the 0W-40. I have been using that for a while now and it's been super. Way better oil pressure especially in the summer. So for those that don't get a deal on RP get the Mobil 1 0W-40.

Patman

If you decide on the Royal Purple, go with their Racing 41 oil, it's much better in the LS1 than their 5w30 or 10w30, and completely safe to use on the street for as much as 6k or even slightly more if you wish.

2redgmc

iTrader: (1)

You don't need the Royal Purple racing oils. The SAE 5w30 or 10w30 will be fine. I have the 5w30 in mine, my girl friends 02 WS6 and several other LS1 powered cars that we perform oil analysis on and they all come back with great results.

MikeyS2k5

iTrader: (2)

This may be a stupid question but I have been thinking of switching to sythetic, so i need to know what is the difference between 0w40 oil and say 5w30? I know it has something to do with the oil thickness at certain temps. Which should I run if I use my car as a daily driver, winter and summer? Thanks!

Chaddy0122

Another newbie question about the syn oil........if you change from "regular" oil to synthetic, how soon should the synthetic be replaced after that first initial change over?

Thanx

2redgmc

iTrader: (1)

Depending on how many miles are on the engine. I switch all my new cars over at 2000 miles and start running extended drain intervals from then on.

For engines that have some miles on them I like to run 1 or 2 normal drain intervals before I start running evtended drain intervals.

2redgmc

iTrader: (1)

The difference between a 5w30 and a 0w40 would be the the 0w40 would be thinner at start up and heaver at opperating temp.

What oil viscosity is right for you? That is going to depend on several things.

how many miles are on the engine?

Do you have an early LS1 that eats oil?

What modifiations do you have?

If you have an 01 or 02 that has been taken care of with not many modifications then using a 5w30 or 10w30 should be fine.

MikeyS2k5

iTrader: (2)

2redgmc: I have a 2000 Firebird Formula, which has 36,000 miles on it. Since it is my daily driver, I do not have too many modifications, just intake stuff, and soon a catback. I am guessing I should use 5w30 since I drive it in the winter, so it does not thin out too much? Thanks

Patman

Could you post these oil analysis results on here please. I find it hard to believe you'd see better results with the 5w30 and 10w30 over the Racing 41. Even you have mentioned how the Racing oil has more zinc and phosphorus in it since it's not an API certified oil, so therefore it should show better wear results in analysis.

Patman

Here is a 3K+ interval analysis of RP #41 done on a LS1 Camaro. Mileage on the car was 20K This was one of the very best oil analysis reports I've seen yet on an LS1 (until I get my report back from using Castrol 0w30)

Silicon - 9.0
Potassium - 7.1
Sodium - 3.7
Fuel% - <2.0
Glycol%- <.02
Water% - <0.1
Nitration - 50
Boron - 0.0
Calcium - 2627
Magnesium - 7.7
Moly - 141
Sodium - 3.7
Phosphorous - 1060
Antimony - 2.7
Zinc - 1888
Vis @ 100C - 14.54
Oxidation - 35
TBN - 7.38
Iron - 3.1
Nickel - 0.5
Chromium - 1.0
Titanium - 0.2
Copper - 104
Aluminum - 4.6
Tin - 0.0
Lead - 3.0
Silver - 0.0

HitmanLSX

I have 90k on my 99 Trans Am (just got it 3wks ago) is it too late? it's stock for now... what weight would be recommended?

2redgmc

iTrader: (1)

Silicon - 7.9
Potassium - .2
Sodium - 8.2
Fuel% - <2.0
Glycol%- <.02
Water% - <.1
Nitration - 50
Boron - .3
Calcium - 2436
Magnesium - 6.0
Moly - 120
Sodium - 8.2
Phosphorous - 960
Antimony - 3.0
Zinc - 1656
Vis @ 100C - 11.59
Oxidation - 35
TBN - 6.00
Iron - 28
Nickel - 1.0
Chromium - .8
Titanium - .1
Copper - 63
Aluminum - 6.0
Tin - 0
Lead - 0
Silver - 0


5000 miles on the 5w30 with a WIX filter.

2redgmc

iTrader: (1)

No it's not to late.

Use the same viscosity you are using now. If you don't know what is in it now then start with a 10w30 and check the oil often.

Some of the early LS1's consumed oil and using a heaver viscosity will help reduce the consumption rate.

So if yours uses oil on the 10w30 then at the next oil change switch to the 10w40.

2redgmc

iTrader: (1)

You should be fine with the 5w30 and no it will not thin out to much.

Patman

That is a good report that you posted, with the exception of iron which seems awfully high for only 5000 miles. But lead of zero is awesome, no bearing wear at all! Out of curiosity don't you want to try out the Racing 41 to see how it works though?