Removing stock exhaust...
08-26-2004, 03:42 PM
#1
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Removing stock exhaust... How high up do I need to get the car to remove the stock system without cutting anything? I want to be able to go back to stock and have it look perfect later. Thanks.
08-26-2004, 05:44 PM
#2
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you will need a lift...
if not its gonna need a cut... but as long as you keep the cut strait there is no reason you cant have it welded right back together
if not its gonna need a cut... but as long as you keep the cut strait there is no reason you cant have it welded right back together
08-27-2004, 05:44 AM
#3
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
you will need a lift...
if not its gonna need a cut... but as long as you keep the cut strait there is no reason you cant have it welded right back together
if not its gonna need a cut... but as long as you keep the cut strait there is no reason you cant have it welded right back together
just 2 or 3 straight cuts in the right place with a sawzall and the exhaust shouldd come off pretty easy and still be able to be re-welded or clamped pretty easy.
08-28-2004, 12:25 AM
#4
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When I took mine off on the lift the only reason they had to cut mine off was because I had a cut out installed right before the pipe went over the axle. Lift-no cuting, No lift-just cut it, nothing that can't be re welded.
08-28-2004, 12:28 AM
#5
This is the way I remove stock LS1 F-body exhausts without cutting: The whole procedure can be done in about 30 minutes with air tools.
Use ramps to raise front of car. (Raising the front of the car is optional. It just gives you more room to work where the intermediate pipe connects to the Y-pipe) Jack up rear of car and support with jackstands on subframe ahead of rear axle. Remove RR wheel. Place floor jack under rear end center section and raise rear end but let car rest on jackstands. Remove bolt from panhard bar on pass side of axle and swing panhard bar down. Remove brace above panhard bar completely. (one bolt on pass side and 3 bolts on drivers side) You will need to remove the 2 sheet metal screws that hold the heat shield to the bar, (7mm socket) Remove bolts (2) where sway bar bracket bolts to pass side frame. No need to remove these on the drivers side. Remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side) that hold the sway bar to the axle with the u bolts. The rear end will not drop down far enough with out the sway bar loosened. Remove nut from pass side lower shock mount and pull shock out of lower mounting hole. Lower floor jack so pass side of axle hangs down. Remove nut from clamp where intermediate pipe attaches to y-pipe. Remove the 2 bolts on the drivers side tail pipe hanger. Remove the nut on the pass side tail pipe hanger. Have one person grab one tail pipe while you grab the other and with a twisting motion while pulling back on the cat back, separate it from the y-pipe. Swing the catback towards the pass side and rotate it 180 degrees while snakeing the intermediate pipe through the pass side wheel well. Reassemble in reverse order.
Use ramps to raise front of car. (Raising the front of the car is optional. It just gives you more room to work where the intermediate pipe connects to the Y-pipe) Jack up rear of car and support with jackstands on subframe ahead of rear axle. Remove RR wheel. Place floor jack under rear end center section and raise rear end but let car rest on jackstands. Remove bolt from panhard bar on pass side of axle and swing panhard bar down. Remove brace above panhard bar completely. (one bolt on pass side and 3 bolts on drivers side) You will need to remove the 2 sheet metal screws that hold the heat shield to the bar, (7mm socket) Remove bolts (2) where sway bar bracket bolts to pass side frame. No need to remove these on the drivers side. Remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side) that hold the sway bar to the axle with the u bolts. The rear end will not drop down far enough with out the sway bar loosened. Remove nut from pass side lower shock mount and pull shock out of lower mounting hole. Lower floor jack so pass side of axle hangs down. Remove nut from clamp where intermediate pipe attaches to y-pipe. Remove the 2 bolts on the drivers side tail pipe hanger. Remove the nut on the pass side tail pipe hanger. Have one person grab one tail pipe while you grab the other and with a twisting motion while pulling back on the cat back, separate it from the y-pipe. Swing the catback towards the pass side and rotate it 180 degrees while snakeing the intermediate pipe through the pass side wheel well. Reassemble in reverse order.
08-25-2011, 11:57 AM
#7
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This is the way I remove stock LS1 F-body exhausts without cutting: The whole procedure can be done in about 30 minutes with air tools.
Use ramps to raise front of car. (Raising the front of the car is optional. It just gives you more room to work where the intermediate pipe connects to the Y-pipe) Jack up rear of car and support with jackstands on subframe ahead of rear axle. Remove RR wheel. Place floor jack under rear end center section and raise rear end but let car rest on jackstands. Remove bolt from panhard bar on pass side of axle and swing panhard bar down. Remove brace above panhard bar completely. (one bolt on pass side and 3 bolts on drivers side) You will need to remove the 2 sheet metal screws that hold the heat shield to the bar, (7mm socket) Remove bolts (2) where sway bar bracket bolts to pass side frame. No need to remove these on the drivers side. Remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side) that hold the sway bar to the axle with the u bolts. The rear end will not drop down far enough with out the sway bar loosened. Remove nut from pass side lower shock mount and pull shock out of lower mounting hole. Lower floor jack so pass side of axle hangs down. Remove nut from clamp where intermediate pipe attaches to y-pipe. Remove the 2 bolts on the drivers side tail pipe hanger. Remove the nut on the pass side tail pipe hanger. Have one person grab one tail pipe while you grab the other and with a twisting motion while pulling back on the cat back, separate it from the y-pipe. Swing the catback towards the pass side and rotate it 180 degrees while snakeing the intermediate pipe through the pass side wheel well. Reassemble in reverse order.
Use ramps to raise front of car. (Raising the front of the car is optional. It just gives you more room to work where the intermediate pipe connects to the Y-pipe) Jack up rear of car and support with jackstands on subframe ahead of rear axle. Remove RR wheel. Place floor jack under rear end center section and raise rear end but let car rest on jackstands. Remove bolt from panhard bar on pass side of axle and swing panhard bar down. Remove brace above panhard bar completely. (one bolt on pass side and 3 bolts on drivers side) You will need to remove the 2 sheet metal screws that hold the heat shield to the bar, (7mm socket) Remove bolts (2) where sway bar bracket bolts to pass side frame. No need to remove these on the drivers side. Remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side) that hold the sway bar to the axle with the u bolts. The rear end will not drop down far enough with out the sway bar loosened. Remove nut from pass side lower shock mount and pull shock out of lower mounting hole. Lower floor jack so pass side of axle hangs down. Remove nut from clamp where intermediate pipe attaches to y-pipe. Remove the 2 bolts on the drivers side tail pipe hanger. Remove the nut on the pass side tail pipe hanger. Have one person grab one tail pipe while you grab the other and with a twisting motion while pulling back on the cat back, separate it from the y-pipe. Swing the catback towards the pass side and rotate it 180 degrees while snakeing the intermediate pipe through the pass side wheel well. Reassemble in reverse order.
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08-29-2011, 08:47 AM
#10
Remove as one-piece.
Some do a cut before the Axle hump which is fine but IMO is hack and really lazy. ONLY if you plan on throwing it away and never using it again, this is no reason why people cannot take the extra time to remove it whole. Expecially when they want to go back at some possible future point.
Try to get it as high as the stands allow, so you can max out the jack stands, never hurts. may have to get a solid block under the jack and do a second attempt as most hyd. jacks max out before the stands. Thats just being picky.
08-31-2011, 06:20 AM
#12
Any Cat back system will require some work and adjustment to get it right. Being on your back or standing is the main difference and most time you have more leverage standing. Since most times it comes in pieces its easier. If you end up welding it up, again, standing is better.
