whats the best bang for your buck for the LS1 Z-28
02-16-2005, 03:41 PM
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whats the best bang for your buck for the LS1 Z-28 hey all I am a big CAMARO fan every since i bought my car i have had a blast with it I own a SOM 01 Z-28 the thing is I have a baby on the way and i am very happy about that but now i dont have as much mony to spend because i am saving for the baby so my wife tell's me i can buy one more performance part for my car so what is the best bang for the buck what will give me the most power for under 500 bucks. so far the things i have done to my car are as follows smooth bellows/throttel body bypass/B&Nshift kit/flowmastermuffler/cold air box/ram air cut out under K&N air filter/and 4:10 gears LS6intake and it is an automatic I have not taking it to the track yet so i am kinda curios about what it can do, i have good tires i drive on comp/ta drag radials and on the street they hook up pretty good. but any way thats what i got and i have 500 bucks for one last part so any suggestions i am all ears.
Last edited by somZ-28; 02-16-2005 at 03:50 PM.
02-16-2005, 03:49 PM
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Is your car an A4 or M6?.
What do you mean by "cold air box", if you mean an airlid then I cant suggest it. If you dont have a lid, get one.
I also would have to say a better flowing muffler would help you out, I think magnaflow makes a good one.
Did you get a 12 bolt with your 4.10 gears? If not then you better talk the old lady into a 12 bolt cause your car wont be any fun if you snap the 10 bolt and it's just sitting.
What do you mean by "cold air box", if you mean an airlid then I cant suggest it. If you dont have a lid, get one.
I also would have to say a better flowing muffler would help you out, I think magnaflow makes a good one.
Did you get a 12 bolt with your 4.10 gears? If not then you better talk the old lady into a 12 bolt cause your car wont be any fun if you snap the 10 bolt and it's just sitting.
02-16-2005, 03:57 PM
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As you Quoted: and it is an automatic what it can do, i have good tires i drive on comp/ta drag radials and on the street they hook up pretty good. i have 500 bucks
Easy Stall Converter 3,200 to 3,500 stll. They have them on sale at Texas Performance and offering the ssf tci 3,500 for 479.00 plus shipping. Ask for Trevor
Easy Stall Converter 3,200 to 3,500 stll. They have them on sale at Texas Performance and offering the ssf tci 3,500 for 479.00 plus shipping. Ask for Trevor
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02-16-2005, 06:17 PM
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I would do your homework and start shopping around for some used parts. There are alot of great used parts out there but you kind of have to know exactly what your looking for. Esspecially with a converter.
I would highly reccomend the converter and trans cooler. But at $500 your going to be limited to a TCI or a Midwest (unless you find a great deal on a used Yank or Vig), and you'll have to do the work yourself of course. Only thing is, even with drag radials your going to have to go with a pretty low STR if you want the car to hook with the 4.10s. I'm not sure what guys with that set up are running for STRs but I'm going to guess it'll have to be between 1.6-2.0.
I would highly reccomend the converter and trans cooler. But at $500 your going to be limited to a TCI or a Midwest (unless you find a great deal on a used Yank or Vig), and you'll have to do the work yourself of course. Only thing is, even with drag radials your going to have to go with a pretty low STR if you want the car to hook with the 4.10s. I'm not sure what guys with that set up are running for STRs but I'm going to guess it'll have to be between 1.6-2.0.
02-16-2005, 06:21 PM
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Not the most popular idea,but try a shift kit and save the rest for the kid,a cd or bond to build on .As a father of a one year old I can tell you the money will go flying out of your account as soon as the baby arrives.The best thing going is that you are keeping your car,I sold a vette as soon as I found out one was on the way.I recently picked up my f-body cheap and am thrilled to have another toy.You will be making a lot of sacrifices for a long time to come,but they are worth all of them.Best of luck to you and your wife! 
02-16-2005, 06:24 PM
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ya i have no problems with the 4:10 gears at all but then my car does not have a whole lot of HP I think I have about 330 HP with what i have done but i dont know how much is getting to the wheels since i have not dino tested it wet. My brother does the work on my car so if you have some ?'s he can be reached at AK454@aol.com
02-16-2005, 06:32 PM
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ya she is the best and can you explain what a stall converter does i am still learning as i go. and to tommys dad i have a shift kit on and it makes driving a blast.
02-16-2005, 06:49 PM
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The stall basicly does two things. It keeps you in your power band all the time at WOT and it will help you get out of the hole alot quicker and harder.
Say you go with a 3,500 stall. With that high of a stall when your car shifts at WOT you should not see the RPMs drop below about 4,500 rpm or so. This is know as shift extension.
As for getting out of the hole harder and quicker, this is where STR plays a big role. STR is Stall Torque Ratio. Basicly this means how many times the engines torque is going to be mutiplied by the converter (think it's figured at the output shaft). The more STR, the harder the converter will hit. You basicly want as much STR as your tires/suspesion can handle. Thats why I think you would need to stick with a lower STR since you have 4.10s. And also the combination of a higher str and 4.10s will probrably hurt the rear if you do hook. The draw back to the lower STR is that the converter will feel more loose (shouldn't be too bad with those gears). However, on the upside, lower STR converters are more efficient.
BTW: Since you already have a shift kit, that will work great with the converter. Most people have to have their cars retuned because the verter softens the shifts. I would reccomend staying under or at the 3500 stall though. Sometimes with stalls higher than that the car will bump the limiter with the stock shift points.
Say you go with a 3,500 stall. With that high of a stall when your car shifts at WOT you should not see the RPMs drop below about 4,500 rpm or so. This is know as shift extension.
As for getting out of the hole harder and quicker, this is where STR plays a big role. STR is Stall Torque Ratio. Basicly this means how many times the engines torque is going to be mutiplied by the converter (think it's figured at the output shaft). The more STR, the harder the converter will hit. You basicly want as much STR as your tires/suspesion can handle. Thats why I think you would need to stick with a lower STR since you have 4.10s. And also the combination of a higher str and 4.10s will probrably hurt the rear if you do hook. The draw back to the lower STR is that the converter will feel more loose (shouldn't be too bad with those gears). However, on the upside, lower STR converters are more efficient.
BTW: Since you already have a shift kit, that will work great with the converter. Most people have to have their cars retuned because the verter softens the shifts. I would reccomend staying under or at the 3500 stall though. Sometimes with stalls higher than that the car will bump the limiter with the stock shift points.
Last edited by GM Muscle; 02-16-2005 at 06:57 PM. Reason: So when are we getting spell check!?!
02-17-2005, 09:06 AM
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A torque converter will be the best bang for the buck.
Caution if you have a high stall TC and a shift kit and auxillary transmission cooler is a must. You can get a cooler for about $50. Hope that doesn't blow your budget but I wouldn't do one without the other.
Caution if you have a high stall TC and a shift kit and auxillary transmission cooler is a must. You can get a cooler for about $50. Hope that doesn't blow your budget but I wouldn't do one without the other.