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What to inspect on LS1-car prior to purchase?

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Old 03-15-2005, 05:51 PM
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Default What to inspect on LS1-car prior to purchase?

Hi all, I did a quick search here but haven't been able to find a checklist of things to look for when buying a used LS1.

I'm the market for a 2000+ SS or TA (hopefully a WS6).

I'm sure this has been posted before, so perhaps links to such threads may be useful!

Thanks in advance !!

Old 03-15-2005, 07:04 PM
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LS1 problem areas:
Piston slap, need to start it when it's cold and see if it sounds like a diesel engine.
Oil Consumption: Hard to check for, look for blue smoke on startup.
Normal engine checks: Do a compression check, drive it and see if it shifts good, etc.

I drove a 98 that ran fantastic, but was a little on the worn side. The very next car was a beautiful 2000SS that I almost bought but it was just very SLOW! Don't know what was wrong, but I'm glad I didn't buy it. Good luck, these cars are FANTASTIC!
Old 03-15-2005, 11:02 PM
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do a carfax
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-owners-newbie-tech/283187-anyone-need-carfax.html
Old 03-16-2005, 03:30 AM
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When you're testing it listen to hear if it pings at full throttle. These cars suck oil through the PCV valve and squirt it into the intake. Lots of times they develop detonation problems because of this.
Old 03-16-2005, 06:57 AM
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Not really a big issue (easy fix), but most 4th gens tend to have leaky pinion seals, like I said, its an easy fix, but may help you get down the price a little.
Old 03-16-2005, 09:23 AM
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don't worry about piston slap unless it's terrible and sounds really bad (prolly a spun bearing) piston slap is a common problem and even from the manufacturer they said if it goes away within a minute or so then it is NORMAL...so basically if it's a 6 speed see if it shifts well and the clutch doesn't slip...check tires...check to see if it's been repainted (look into "hidden" areas and feel around the edges...if it is rough it usually means it's been repainted) check a/c...drive it check for loud rear-end noise...give it a little gas to see if the power is there...other than that i really don't know what to tell you...i'm sure i left a few things out but just do some more research...there are quite a few threads in this database...including a couple of mine
Old 03-16-2005, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by KrazyDan
That is not entirely accurate though, in my experience. I wrecked my '95 Z28 twice, once totalling it bad enough to have to cut the front end off of another car and weld it on to mine. I did a Carfax through this site and it came back squeaky clean for some reason.
Old 03-16-2005, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by FLeXNuTZ
That is not entirely accurate though, in my experience. I wrecked my '95 Z28 twice, once totalling it bad enough to have to cut the front end off of another car and weld it on to mine. I did a Carfax through this site and it came back squeaky clean for some reason.
Were the accidents reported?
Old 03-16-2005, 11:27 AM
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Yeah, were the accidents reported? If there's no police record or insurance claim for the accident, of course the CarFax will be clean!
Old 03-16-2005, 11:44 AM
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My wife had two accidents in her Accord and both had police reports and both had insurance claims. Only 1 shows up in Carfax.
Old 03-16-2005, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by glennhl
My wife had two accidents in her Accord and both had police reports and both had insurance claims. Only 1 shows up in Carfax.
Ive unfortunately heard this too many times. CarFax is really not that reliable!
Old 03-16-2005, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1 FEVR
Ive unfortunately heard this too many times. CarFax is really not that reliable!


I'm buyin a car now that has 30K miles on it, and the last carfax entry was registration at 32 miles.
Old 03-16-2005, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptUSA


I'm buyin a car now that has 30K miles on it, and the last carfax entry was registration at 32 miles.
I think it only records miles when the title chages hands or the car goes in for inspection.
Old 03-16-2005, 03:59 PM
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check underneath near the rear differential, the pinion seals on these cars have a tendency to be leaky. Not too hard, or expensive to fix, but either way something to check.
Old 03-16-2005, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by natronathon
check underneath near the rear differential, the pinion seals on these cars have a tendency to be leaky. Not too hard, or expensive to fix, but either way something to check.
I've heard of this problem before, however I have no idea where pinion seals would be, nor where to check for oil leaks. Do I just check under the rear diff (which would be the round thingy in the back - in the middle of the solid rear axle)?

I think I will bring with me a mechanic before purchasing the car - just so that he can have a quick look at it. I'm sure he will notice things I never would, no matter how informed I am. They're professionals after all!
Old 03-16-2005, 06:41 PM
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Oil pressure make shure its above 20psi at all times look at the exhaust manifold bolts if they are shiny then most likly it was modded and put back to stock....
Old 03-17-2005, 09:25 AM
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the pinion seal is where the yoke on the differential (that connects to the drive shaft) meets up with the differential. The seal is what keeps the fluid from leaking out. The cover on the back just has a gasket, but usualy never leaks.You will know if its leaking because the pumpkin will look wet. Its an easy fix and in expensive, but its a good way for you to talk the seller down in price a little.
Old 03-17-2005, 01:43 PM
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Awesome info, thanks guys!
Old 03-17-2005, 02:07 PM
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Rear end whine. If the car has seen the track it could develop a whine. Ring and pinion might be getting worn or damaged. Make sure you test drive it to around 55 mph.

Also. If there are slight rattles coming from the body its ok. Get SFC to cure it.
Old 03-17-2005, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Zymosis
Were the accidents reported?
Yes, they were reported. I have copies of the police reports and insurance claims for both. I guess a clean Carfax is good for me though whenever I sell the car, lol.




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