Finished spark plug change....
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Finished spark plug change....
I just finished the spark plug change, it took me 3 1/2 hours and this was my first time. I used the universityinstallation.com notes, hayes book and ls1tech.com info - which was a big help.
I wont to point out that the universityinsatllion site, says to remove the strut tower brace. I did not. Im very glad I didn't. I used the stb to lean on to get to #8 plug from atop, while one knee on the battery and the other next to the air box. I took off the egr tube -which is a must. The driver side went very good, took about 30 minutes. The passenger side was a pain. But it was the number #8 plug which brougt 95% of the pain. I recommend you get a boot puller. I didn't have one and went under the car, over the car and finally I had to remove the 2 passenger rear coil packs. This allowed me to have enough room to pull and remove the boot -do not pull on the wire, only the boot.
I didn't have a torque wrench but once the plug was tight I then turned the wrench 1/16 as the spark plug package says too -when a torque wrench it not used. All the plugs on the passenger side I removed and put in from up top. I tried installing plug #8 from the bottom, but removing the 2 passenger rear coil packs made it easy.
The toughest part of the insallation was removing the boot from plug #8 -passenger side nearest to the firewall. Had I purchased a boot puller I would have saved an 1 hours time.
Thanks to this website and the members, I got the confidence to change the spark plugs. So If I can do this, so can you. Just take your time. Knowing that this installatioin was going be a few hours and the frustration of plug number #8, I was prepared for the plug #8 headache and I avoided having to kick my car.
The previous owner -1st owner- told me he had already replaced the plugs -dealer installation. Maybe true. They were AC Delco and looked good, except the fact that 7 plugs were gapped at 70. And one was gapped at 60 as they all should have been. The last plug next to the firewall on the driver side had a bit of oil on it. And so did the passenger side plug #4 -second plug from the front of the motor.
The first time you hear the motor and everything is fine and works as its supposed too.....this is a good feeling, knowing I put in 3 1/2 hours of work. After I put everything back t I went for a drive. The car feels good and acceleration feels a lot better, it feels like it pushes harder now. Overall satisfed. Just watch out for the passenger exhaust manifold because she will scratch you like a b**** so it maybe a good idea to wear long sleeves and no gold or silver chain or watch, you may break one or the other.
The plugs I used were NGK TR55, 1.99 a piece. The AC Delco plug number is... well there is two numbers, I will write them in order exactly "how" it is printed on the spark plug:
AC 41-931 AC
25162487
I also changed the oil and used mobil 1 oil filter #107. Tomorrow the gas filter purolater #F54714.
I wont to point out that the universityinsatllion site, says to remove the strut tower brace. I did not. Im very glad I didn't. I used the stb to lean on to get to #8 plug from atop, while one knee on the battery and the other next to the air box. I took off the egr tube -which is a must. The driver side went very good, took about 30 minutes. The passenger side was a pain. But it was the number #8 plug which brougt 95% of the pain. I recommend you get a boot puller. I didn't have one and went under the car, over the car and finally I had to remove the 2 passenger rear coil packs. This allowed me to have enough room to pull and remove the boot -do not pull on the wire, only the boot.
I didn't have a torque wrench but once the plug was tight I then turned the wrench 1/16 as the spark plug package says too -when a torque wrench it not used. All the plugs on the passenger side I removed and put in from up top. I tried installing plug #8 from the bottom, but removing the 2 passenger rear coil packs made it easy.
The toughest part of the insallation was removing the boot from plug #8 -passenger side nearest to the firewall. Had I purchased a boot puller I would have saved an 1 hours time.
Thanks to this website and the members, I got the confidence to change the spark plugs. So If I can do this, so can you. Just take your time. Knowing that this installatioin was going be a few hours and the frustration of plug number #8, I was prepared for the plug #8 headache and I avoided having to kick my car.
The previous owner -1st owner- told me he had already replaced the plugs -dealer installation. Maybe true. They were AC Delco and looked good, except the fact that 7 plugs were gapped at 70. And one was gapped at 60 as they all should have been. The last plug next to the firewall on the driver side had a bit of oil on it. And so did the passenger side plug #4 -second plug from the front of the motor.
The first time you hear the motor and everything is fine and works as its supposed too.....this is a good feeling, knowing I put in 3 1/2 hours of work. After I put everything back t I went for a drive. The car feels good and acceleration feels a lot better, it feels like it pushes harder now. Overall satisfed. Just watch out for the passenger exhaust manifold because she will scratch you like a b**** so it maybe a good idea to wear long sleeves and no gold or silver chain or watch, you may break one or the other.
The plugs I used were NGK TR55, 1.99 a piece. The AC Delco plug number is... well there is two numbers, I will write them in order exactly "how" it is printed on the spark plug:
AC 41-931 AC
25162487
I also changed the oil and used mobil 1 oil filter #107. Tomorrow the gas filter purolater #F54714.
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Congrats
I've looked at the notes on doing this myself - just haven't gotten up the energy to do it yet.
I know what it is like to worry when you turn that key for the first time - last weekend I had to change a knock sensor, which is UNDER the intake manifold. But I saved myself $355 in labor and, like you, I felt great when I turned that key and it fired right up with no engine light on.
I've looked at the notes on doing this myself - just haven't gotten up the energy to do it yet.
I know what it is like to worry when you turn that key for the first time - last weekend I had to change a knock sensor, which is UNDER the intake manifold. But I saved myself $355 in labor and, like you, I felt great when I turned that key and it fired right up with no engine light on.
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Thanks everybody. And yeah I ain't a virgin no more Minutes burning trying to take off the boot on the #8 spark plug I was wishing I had LT, down the line I plan on buying a pair. 98ZEE28 you got a nice car too! ArticSS great job. The chevy dealership wanted 500 for spark plug change, ridicules. It really is a great feeling hearing the car for the first time after an install.
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#8
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Originally Posted by 98boxer
I just finished the spark plug change, it took me 3 1/2 hours and this was my first time. I used the universityinstallation.com notes, hayes book and ls1tech.com info - which was a big help.
I wont to point out that the universityinsatllion site, ....
I wont to point out that the universityinsatllion site, ....
Congrats on getting it done!
Last edited by ACW; 04-25-2005 at 10:29 PM.
#10
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congrats! i was having some ticking and stuff for the past few weeks. i traced it to 2 of my sparkplugs. my #8 and #4, the #8 plug wire was BARLEY on the plug, i noticed it when under the car, unplugging my ABS wire for the hidden wire mod. i also found the #8 plug to be MUCH easier to mess with from under the car (i have headers).
when i got the plug wire out, the tiny piece of aluminum that screws onto the end of the plug had unscrewed and went all the way to the back of the sparkplug boot. it was BARLEY getting a connection. i fished it out and put it on and it was smoother sailing. the next day i found that the #4 was the same way. so make sure you screw those little thigns on nice and tight
when i got the plug wire out, the tiny piece of aluminum that screws onto the end of the plug had unscrewed and went all the way to the back of the sparkplug boot. it was BARLEY getting a connection. i fished it out and put it on and it was smoother sailing. the next day i found that the #4 was the same way. so make sure you screw those little thigns on nice and tight
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Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
the next day i found that the #4 was the same way. so make sure you screw those little thigns on nice and tight
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I've still got both boxes of NGK TR55's sitting in my closet from nearly a full year ago. I went out to try and change them myself, but I have absolutely NO level of patience whatsoever. So as you already figured out, I called it quits that day, put the plugs in the closet and plan on putting them in when me and a bunch of buddies install my LT's, ORY, and LS6 all at the same time in a month.
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Originally Posted by TransAm52804
I've still got both boxes of NGK TR55's sitting in my closet from nearly a full year ago. I went out to try and change them myself, but I have absolutely NO level of patience whatsoever. So as you already figured out, I called it quits that day, put the plugs in the closet and plan on putting them in when me and a bunch of buddies install my LT's, ORY, and LS6 all at the same time in a month.