View Poll Results: Sow what do you think, is it STICKEY worthy?
Voters: 441. You may not vote on this poll
SO YOU WANNA BE FAST...... Jaberwaki's 2nd writeup
08-06-2005, 07:14 PM
#1
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
SO YOU WANNA BE FAST...... Jaberwaki's 2nd writeup note: this is an earlier draft, the current version is in https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-owners-newbie-tech/361959-so-you-wanna-fast.html
So you wanna be Fast.....Jaberwaki's 2nd write up
(A newbies guide to what it takes to build a fast F-body)
Being fast is much, much more then just making alot of power.
There are SEVERAL parts that make up the ability to be fast at the track.
We will discuss the things that you can directly effect.
We will split the parts up one at a time and even get part specific, defining
what a part is and what does it do.
Part 1.
Power
================================================== ==============================
Power is the newbies wet dream. It is what Vin Diesel told him he needed to
twist the chassis off the line, and now you want a twisted chassis don't you?
In its simplest form, the motor is nothing more then a power making air pump.
The more air in, the more air out, the more power you make.That is not
everything by a long shot, but it will help you figure out if a mod will help
or hurt.
There are ALOT of ways to make power, more importantly, increase power output
from your motor. Here are some of them.
A. Nitrouse Oxide.
------------------
Nitrous Oxide or N2O is a chemical oxidizer, it is 2 parts oxygen, and one part
nitrogen. The oxygen is the part that makes power. Gasoline combines with
oxygen in a combustible mixture. the more of both you have, in the proper amount,
the more power you make. So why not inject pure oxygen? Simple, pure oxygen is
much,much less stable. The nitrogen is added to stabilize the oxygen. Bang for
buck, N2O is the fastest way to make power.
That being said, N2O has a bad reputation for giving more BANG then people
expected. Let me go on record as saying, this is not the N2O's fault. The fault
is on the person trying to get away with spraying nitrous and only having 500
bucks total to put into it. Nitrous is a SAFE power adder, if it is 1. setup
correctly 2. used properly ...
There are 3 major types of nitrouse setups.
1.Dry
2.Wet
3.Direct port
As with most choices, there are pluses and minuses to all of them.
DRY.....
A dry shot, relies on the cars MAF, PCM, and fuel system to add the proper
amount of fuel to balance the nitrous out. That is, the nitrous is sprayed
in front of the MAF, which recognizes a sudden spike in O2, it signals the PCM
which decides the proper amount of fuel needed to balance the mixture.
It is the Cheapest of the setups to purchase. It also leaves no chance of fuel
"puddling" in the intake. The weak point in this system is the cars fuel system.
the dry shot is limited to the cars ability to increase fuel. Often a shot will
find the weak spot in the fuel system, Be it the injectors, the fuel pump, ect...
Spraying N2O without the fuel to support it equals the kiss of death for your car.
WET.....
A wet shot, does not rely on the cars MAF, PCM, or injectors to provide the
proper amount of fuel to balance the mixture. It has a separate fuel line with
its own jetting that is set up to spray the exact amount of fuel needed to go
with the size nitrous shot you are using. In some cases this may require you to
step up your fuel pump, but you need not worry about your injectors. Some draw
backs are, with a separate fuel line and the fact that the spray is happening
AFTER the MAF, any trouble with the system will go unnoticed buy your PCM
till its too late. If your nitrous stops spraying but the fuel does not, then
it will puddle and possably introduce you to your hood....the hard way...
If the fuel side cuts out , but the nitrous side does not then you will go
drastically lean and blow your motor.Threat of these things can be minimized.
Buy GOOD parts, not the cheapest you can get away with.
Direct Port.....
A direct port set up, mixes the N2O and fuel and directly injects the mixture into
each individual cylinder, it is by far and away the safest, and best way to use
N2O. It does have one major draw back... PRICE. The direct port system by itself,
can cost north or 1500 bucks. That does not include any of the supporting parts,
that really are must haves with ANY nitrous setup.
Not just the base kit. If you plan on running N2O and would like your car to last
more then just one or two runs down the 1/4. then you should compliment your
base kit with the proper accessories. These include .....
A rpm window switch
It will turn off and on your kit at preset rpms, 1. so your don't spray under low
rpms which can blow you motor 2. so you don't spray right into your rev limiter,
same reason.
A Fuel Pressure Safety Switch
If your fuel pressure drops below a safe range while spraying nitrous, the safety
switch will shut the nitrous off to keep from running the engine too lean
A Bottle Pressure Guage
It allows you to safely monitor your nitrous pressure in the passenger
compartment.
A Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Switch
Also called a WOT switch, it only allows your kit to turn on when you are at wide
open throttle.
An Automatic Bottle Heater
It will keep your bottle at the correct temp and pressure to insure you are
spraying the correct size shot. This is especially important in a WET shot
set up, as the shot of fuel will not adjust to the lack of nitrous from a
cold bottle.
A purge kit
This vents old nitrous left in the lines from the last time you sprayed,and
keeps it out of your motor.
This is not everything there is to know about nitrous. It is only a quick,down
and dirty entry level knowledge that you should have before you go the N2O route.
(as a side note it should be said that referring to nitrous as NAWS or NOS is a
good way to get made fun of at the track,and could even get your *** kicked)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
B.Heads/Cam
--------------
Heads and cams are like peas and carrots. They belong together, should be bought
together, they rely on each other, so we will discuss them together.
In the very first part of this post, we said the motor is a power making air pump.
Well your heads and cam decide just how much air gets in, and how much gets out.
Most often referred to as the heart of any race car, the head and cam selection is
a huge factor in just how much power your pile is capable of making.
Just because you buy the biggest cam on the market, and the biggest port highest
flowing heads on the market, does not mean that you will make a ton of power.
It does not work like that. When purchasing a H/C package, you want a set up that
is 1. matched to each others strong points 2. Compensates for the weak points.
3. best suited for the displacement of your motor.
1. Matched to each others strong points....
Every head has its strong points and weak points. If you have a set of heads that
flows particularly well on the intake side, then your cam selection should take
that into account. If it has excellent port velocity, then your cam should again
be geared to exploit that. For example, if your heads make the best flow at
higher lift, then your cam should have the lift numbers to get it there.
2. Compensates for its weak points.....
Like the strong points every set of heads have its weak points. It is my belief
that the cam should compensate for the shortcomings in your heads(since cams
cost less). For instance if your heads do not flow as well on the exhaust side,
you may want to consider a cam that has a longer exhaust duration to allow more
time for the waisted gasses to escape.
3. Best suited for the displacement of your motor.
If you go out and purchase the biggest port,highest flowing heads, the most
montrous cam you can find and slap it on your stock 346, what will you have?
The baddest, fastest 346 this side of the pacos right buddy?
WRONGE... you will have a overpriced, under thought pile, that wont hold an idle.
falls on its face, and never makes power in any usable power band. Good luck with
that... What you want, is the highest flowing, smallest port, heads suited for
your cubes, and a cam that makes the very most out of them.
I will not get vendor specific. The choice, in the end, is still yours. I would
advise you ask a ton of questions, to a ton of sponcers, and go with the one
that .... 1.has the best results on hand 2. is willing to be up front and
answer your questions. 3. Puts technical information in words you can understand
and will help you match a cam for your needs...
The subject of cams alone could fill this website to its brink. This is not a
tell all guild to buying a heads cam set up. Just some basic knowledge and tips
that you should know before you drop 3000 bucks on a H/C set up.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So you wanna be Fast.....Jaberwaki's 2nd write up
(A newbies guide to what it takes to build a fast F-body)
Being fast is much, much more then just making alot of power.
There are SEVERAL parts that make up the ability to be fast at the track.
We will discuss the things that you can directly effect.
We will split the parts up one at a time and even get part specific, defining
what a part is and what does it do.
Part 1.
Power
================================================== ==============================
Power is the newbies wet dream. It is what Vin Diesel told him he needed to
twist the chassis off the line, and now you want a twisted chassis don't you?
In its simplest form, the motor is nothing more then a power making air pump.
The more air in, the more air out, the more power you make.That is not
everything by a long shot, but it will help you figure out if a mod will help
or hurt.
There are ALOT of ways to make power, more importantly, increase power output
from your motor. Here are some of them.
A. Nitrouse Oxide.
------------------
Nitrous Oxide or N2O is a chemical oxidizer, it is 2 parts oxygen, and one part
nitrogen. The oxygen is the part that makes power. Gasoline combines with
oxygen in a combustible mixture. the more of both you have, in the proper amount,
the more power you make. So why not inject pure oxygen? Simple, pure oxygen is
much,much less stable. The nitrogen is added to stabilize the oxygen. Bang for
buck, N2O is the fastest way to make power.
That being said, N2O has a bad reputation for giving more BANG then people
expected. Let me go on record as saying, this is not the N2O's fault. The fault
is on the person trying to get away with spraying nitrous and only having 500
bucks total to put into it. Nitrous is a SAFE power adder, if it is 1. setup
correctly 2. used properly ...
There are 3 major types of nitrouse setups.
1.Dry
2.Wet
3.Direct port
As with most choices, there are pluses and minuses to all of them.
DRY.....
A dry shot, relies on the cars MAF, PCM, and fuel system to add the proper
amount of fuel to balance the nitrous out. That is, the nitrous is sprayed
in front of the MAF, which recognizes a sudden spike in O2, it signals the PCM
which decides the proper amount of fuel needed to balance the mixture.
It is the Cheapest of the setups to purchase. It also leaves no chance of fuel
"puddling" in the intake. The weak point in this system is the cars fuel system.
the dry shot is limited to the cars ability to increase fuel. Often a shot will
find the weak spot in the fuel system, Be it the injectors, the fuel pump, ect...
Spraying N2O without the fuel to support it equals the kiss of death for your car.
WET.....
A wet shot, does not rely on the cars MAF, PCM, or injectors to provide the
proper amount of fuel to balance the mixture. It has a separate fuel line with
its own jetting that is set up to spray the exact amount of fuel needed to go
with the size nitrous shot you are using. In some cases this may require you to
step up your fuel pump, but you need not worry about your injectors. Some draw
backs are, with a separate fuel line and the fact that the spray is happening
AFTER the MAF, any trouble with the system will go unnoticed buy your PCM
till its too late. If your nitrous stops spraying but the fuel does not, then
it will puddle and possably introduce you to your hood....the hard way...
If the fuel side cuts out , but the nitrous side does not then you will go
drastically lean and blow your motor.Threat of these things can be minimized.
Buy GOOD parts, not the cheapest you can get away with.
Direct Port.....
A direct port set up, mixes the N2O and fuel and directly injects the mixture into
each individual cylinder, it is by far and away the safest, and best way to use
N2O. It does have one major draw back... PRICE. The direct port system by itself,
can cost north or 1500 bucks. That does not include any of the supporting parts,
that really are must haves with ANY nitrous setup.
Not just the base kit. If you plan on running N2O and would like your car to last
more then just one or two runs down the 1/4. then you should compliment your
base kit with the proper accessories. These include .....
A rpm window switch
It will turn off and on your kit at preset rpms, 1. so your don't spray under low
rpms which can blow you motor 2. so you don't spray right into your rev limiter,
same reason.
A Fuel Pressure Safety Switch
If your fuel pressure drops below a safe range while spraying nitrous, the safety
switch will shut the nitrous off to keep from running the engine too lean
A Bottle Pressure Guage
It allows you to safely monitor your nitrous pressure in the passenger
compartment.
A Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Switch
Also called a WOT switch, it only allows your kit to turn on when you are at wide
open throttle.
An Automatic Bottle Heater
It will keep your bottle at the correct temp and pressure to insure you are
spraying the correct size shot. This is especially important in a WET shot
set up, as the shot of fuel will not adjust to the lack of nitrous from a
cold bottle.
A purge kit
This vents old nitrous left in the lines from the last time you sprayed,and
keeps it out of your motor.
This is not everything there is to know about nitrous. It is only a quick,down
and dirty entry level knowledge that you should have before you go the N2O route.
(as a side note it should be said that referring to nitrous as NAWS or NOS is a
good way to get made fun of at the track,and could even get your *** kicked)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
B.Heads/Cam
--------------
Heads and cams are like peas and carrots. They belong together, should be bought
together, they rely on each other, so we will discuss them together.
In the very first part of this post, we said the motor is a power making air pump.
Well your heads and cam decide just how much air gets in, and how much gets out.
Most often referred to as the heart of any race car, the head and cam selection is
a huge factor in just how much power your pile is capable of making.
Just because you buy the biggest cam on the market, and the biggest port highest
flowing heads on the market, does not mean that you will make a ton of power.
It does not work like that. When purchasing a H/C package, you want a set up that
is 1. matched to each others strong points 2. Compensates for the weak points.
3. best suited for the displacement of your motor.
1. Matched to each others strong points....
Every head has its strong points and weak points. If you have a set of heads that
flows particularly well on the intake side, then your cam selection should take
that into account. If it has excellent port velocity, then your cam should again
be geared to exploit that. For example, if your heads make the best flow at
higher lift, then your cam should have the lift numbers to get it there.
2. Compensates for its weak points.....
Like the strong points every set of heads have its weak points. It is my belief
that the cam should compensate for the shortcomings in your heads(since cams
cost less). For instance if your heads do not flow as well on the exhaust side,
you may want to consider a cam that has a longer exhaust duration to allow more
time for the waisted gasses to escape.
3. Best suited for the displacement of your motor.
If you go out and purchase the biggest port,highest flowing heads, the most
montrous cam you can find and slap it on your stock 346, what will you have?
The baddest, fastest 346 this side of the pacos right buddy?
WRONGE... you will have a overpriced, under thought pile, that wont hold an idle.
falls on its face, and never makes power in any usable power band. Good luck with
that... What you want, is the highest flowing, smallest port, heads suited for
your cubes, and a cam that makes the very most out of them.
I will not get vendor specific. The choice, in the end, is still yours. I would
advise you ask a ton of questions, to a ton of sponcers, and go with the one
that .... 1.has the best results on hand 2. is willing to be up front and
answer your questions. 3. Puts technical information in words you can understand
and will help you match a cam for your needs...
The subject of cams alone could fill this website to its brink. This is not a
tell all guild to buying a heads cam set up. Just some basic knowledge and tips
that you should know before you drop 3000 bucks on a H/C set up.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by ACW; 08-12-2005 at 02:59 AM.
08-06-2005, 07:16 PM
#2
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
Bolt ons
----------
Bolt ons are: any part that assists in the making of power that does not touch
oil. It is common knowledge that they are the starting point in modding your car,
so the fact that you should complete your bolt ons should go without saying. Lets
look at some of them and what they do.
LID......
A lid replaces your stock lid that was designed with comfort, not power , in mind.
simply put, an after market lid does not have the restrictive air silencing fins
and baffle found on the stocker. It allows more air in, and is a must do first or
second mod.....A lid is a lid, don't ask which one is best.
COLD AIR(ram air)......
The factory placement of the lid is poor for 2 reasons. 1. the ammount of space
air has to get into the lid is minimal.2. placing it right on top of the
radiator all but insures that you will have hot air entering your motor....
A cold air(or ram air) kit fixes both of these problems. Either drawing cool air
from under the car, or sealing your factory ram air to the cool outside air.
both insures that enough air is getting in, and that the air that gets in, is not
hot....
HEADERS.....
Headers replace your stock exhaust manifolds. They assist in the evacuation of
spent gasses from your heads. they do this 2 ways. 1. first they are free
flowing, which is to say they do not restrict exhaust flow in the slightest.2.
being free flowing is not enough, GOOD header designs take it one step further
by creating something know as the "Scavenging effect" that is, the flow of one
header primary as it travels to the collector, creates a void or vacuumed in the
other primaries,effectively sucking out the exhaust as it is released from head.
I have always perfered "steeped" headers, for this very reason. steeped header
primaries get larger as you move away from the heads exhaust port. This greatly
increases the scavenging effect and increases your power potential.
UNDER DRIVE PULLEYS....
Most commonly the crank pulley, it is simply a smaller pulley. 1. the rotational
mass of the pulley is less and there for lighter and easier for your motor to
turn. 2. It effectively reduces the ammount of power required to turn the rest
of the accessories, much like shifting to a lower gear.
ELECTRIC WATERPUMP.....
Following hand in hand with the underdrive pulley, the electric waterpump gives
the motor one less accessory it has to turn, thereby freeing up a few more HP.
Although there is debate as to how much, no-one (that isn't a moron) desputes
that it does free up at least SOME hp.
MANUAL RACK AND PINION STEERING....
Along the same lines the MRAPS gets rid of yet another accessory thereby
freeing up power. It also weights considerably less then the stock power steering
.
EXHAUST SYSTEMS.....
While there is ALOT of bullshit that flys around the Internet about this exhaust
sounds better then that one. This post is not for posers who want to whine about
rasp. The very best flowing exhaust there is, is a true dual x-pipe or h-pipe
setup with or without bullet mufflers. The next best thing is a cutout in the
I-pipe... no cat back outflows a cutout, no y-pipe setup out flows true duels.
Period.
INTAKE AND THROTTLE BODY....
I put these together because much like heads and cam, they should be matched.
Again all bullshit aside, the best is the LSX 90mm and a 90mm throttle body.They
are very expensive. A cost effective second place is the LS6 intake and a ported
stock TB. Either of these 2 choices are worth it, and dyno proven time and
again.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
Bolt ons are: any part that assists in the making of power that does not touch
oil. It is common knowledge that they are the starting point in modding your car,
so the fact that you should complete your bolt ons should go without saying. Lets
look at some of them and what they do.
LID......
A lid replaces your stock lid that was designed with comfort, not power , in mind.
simply put, an after market lid does not have the restrictive air silencing fins
and baffle found on the stocker. It allows more air in, and is a must do first or
second mod.....A lid is a lid, don't ask which one is best.
COLD AIR(ram air)......
The factory placement of the lid is poor for 2 reasons. 1. the ammount of space
air has to get into the lid is minimal.2. placing it right on top of the
radiator all but insures that you will have hot air entering your motor....
A cold air(or ram air) kit fixes both of these problems. Either drawing cool air
from under the car, or sealing your factory ram air to the cool outside air.
both insures that enough air is getting in, and that the air that gets in, is not
hot....
HEADERS.....
Headers replace your stock exhaust manifolds. They assist in the evacuation of
spent gasses from your heads. they do this 2 ways. 1. first they are free
flowing, which is to say they do not restrict exhaust flow in the slightest.2.
being free flowing is not enough, GOOD header designs take it one step further
by creating something know as the "Scavenging effect" that is, the flow of one
header primary as it travels to the collector, creates a void or vacuumed in the
other primaries,effectively sucking out the exhaust as it is released from head.
I have always perfered "steeped" headers, for this very reason. steeped header
primaries get larger as you move away from the heads exhaust port. This greatly
increases the scavenging effect and increases your power potential.
UNDER DRIVE PULLEYS....
Most commonly the crank pulley, it is simply a smaller pulley. 1. the rotational
mass of the pulley is less and there for lighter and easier for your motor to
turn. 2. It effectively reduces the ammount of power required to turn the rest
of the accessories, much like shifting to a lower gear.
ELECTRIC WATERPUMP.....
Following hand in hand with the underdrive pulley, the electric waterpump gives
the motor one less accessory it has to turn, thereby freeing up a few more HP.
Although there is debate as to how much, no-one (that isn't a moron) desputes
that it does free up at least SOME hp.
MANUAL RACK AND PINION STEERING....
Along the same lines the MRAPS gets rid of yet another accessory thereby
freeing up power. It also weights considerably less then the stock power steering
.
EXHAUST SYSTEMS.....
While there is ALOT of bullshit that flys around the Internet about this exhaust
sounds better then that one. This post is not for posers who want to whine about
rasp. The very best flowing exhaust there is, is a true dual x-pipe or h-pipe
setup with or without bullet mufflers. The next best thing is a cutout in the
I-pipe... no cat back outflows a cutout, no y-pipe setup out flows true duels.
Period.
INTAKE AND THROTTLE BODY....
I put these together because much like heads and cam, they should be matched.
Again all bullshit aside, the best is the LSX 90mm and a 90mm throttle body.They
are very expensive. A cost effective second place is the LS6 intake and a ported
stock TB. Either of these 2 choices are worth it, and dyno proven time and
again.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by jaberwaki; 08-06-2005 at 07:33 PM.
08-06-2005, 07:17 PM
#3
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
SHORT BLOCKS
-------------
When your ready to play with the big dogs, it is time to refer to older wisdom.
"There's no replacement for displacement"
I will not speak to which vendor or even which short block is best. But there are
a few staples that any good short block should have.
1. it should be completely balanced and blueprinted....
this means that every part of the rotating assembly has been weighed and made to
be in perfect balance with like parts... for instance all pistons weight exactly
the same within +/- 1 gram... This insures that the motor is not vibrating
itself to death. A perfectly balanced motor will always make more power, all else
being the same. Blueprinting means that every clearance and tolerance has been
checked, rechecked, and documented for you on a build sheet.
2. Forged internals.....
A new short block is something you do not want to have to do twice. Forged
internals will last longer, withstand more abuse, and support more power.
Do it once, do it right.
3. Warranty on Craftsmanship....
This should not be a hard one to understand. If a company will not stand behind
its product,then why would you?Do not be fooled by a vendor that says no one
gives a warranty on short blocks. Yes they do, and if this one will not, find
one that will. It should be noted on the side, that this does not , nor should
it,apply to power adder cars.Too many things can go wronge in a power adder
setup, to ever hold the motor totally responsible.
Having a potent short block will most definitely make you, the guy on your block
to beat...
Insure that you have the short block built for your specific application. Most
builders do not have cookie cutter short blocks. They build yours for your goals.
Are you looking to be a N/A monster? Then a 427 mill with high compression maybe
your best bet. Or are you looking to be king of boost? In that case perhaps a
bullet proof low compression iron 408 would suit you best. Tell your builder
what you want to do with the short block, they can help guild you to the one best
suited for you.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fuel systems
-----------------
We have talked alot so far about air, so now lets turn our attention to the other
half of combustion.FUEL.
Having a fuel system that will support the motor that you are building is
paramount. What good is a motor capable of making 700 hp, but being limited to
500 because your fuel sytem will not support any more then that? It is very hard
to go overboard when planning your fuel system. Because it is adjustable and PCM
controled, having more then you need is not a bad thing.
Once you know how much HP it will take to run the timeslip you want, then that
day start putting together a fuel system that will support that ammount.
As a general rule, you do not want your injector duty cycle over 80%. By the same
rule it is best that your fuel pump be able to handle 120% of the RWHP your motor
is making. Add to that an adjustable fuel regulater, a fuel pressure guadge, and
tuning to dial it all in, and your fueling department should be covered.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Apology (no boost)
------------------
I will go ahead and extend my apologies, I am not including Forced Induction in
this write up. I am not one to write about things I dont have clue one about.
I do not know enough about boost to make an informed writeup on it. However,
plans next year have me building a boost car for a friend. Perhaps after that I
will add to this.
So for now, that is all i am going to write on the subject of making more power
in the LS1.......
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------
When your ready to play with the big dogs, it is time to refer to older wisdom.
"There's no replacement for displacement"
I will not speak to which vendor or even which short block is best. But there are
a few staples that any good short block should have.
1. it should be completely balanced and blueprinted....
this means that every part of the rotating assembly has been weighed and made to
be in perfect balance with like parts... for instance all pistons weight exactly
the same within +/- 1 gram... This insures that the motor is not vibrating
itself to death. A perfectly balanced motor will always make more power, all else
being the same. Blueprinting means that every clearance and tolerance has been
checked, rechecked, and documented for you on a build sheet.
2. Forged internals.....
A new short block is something you do not want to have to do twice. Forged
internals will last longer, withstand more abuse, and support more power.
Do it once, do it right.
3. Warranty on Craftsmanship....
This should not be a hard one to understand. If a company will not stand behind
its product,then why would you?Do not be fooled by a vendor that says no one
gives a warranty on short blocks. Yes they do, and if this one will not, find
one that will. It should be noted on the side, that this does not , nor should
it,apply to power adder cars.Too many things can go wronge in a power adder
setup, to ever hold the motor totally responsible.
Having a potent short block will most definitely make you, the guy on your block
to beat...
Insure that you have the short block built for your specific application. Most
builders do not have cookie cutter short blocks. They build yours for your goals.
Are you looking to be a N/A monster? Then a 427 mill with high compression maybe
your best bet. Or are you looking to be king of boost? In that case perhaps a
bullet proof low compression iron 408 would suit you best. Tell your builder
what you want to do with the short block, they can help guild you to the one best
suited for you.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fuel systems
-----------------
We have talked alot so far about air, so now lets turn our attention to the other
half of combustion.FUEL.
Having a fuel system that will support the motor that you are building is
paramount. What good is a motor capable of making 700 hp, but being limited to
500 because your fuel sytem will not support any more then that? It is very hard
to go overboard when planning your fuel system. Because it is adjustable and PCM
controled, having more then you need is not a bad thing.
Once you know how much HP it will take to run the timeslip you want, then that
day start putting together a fuel system that will support that ammount.
As a general rule, you do not want your injector duty cycle over 80%. By the same
rule it is best that your fuel pump be able to handle 120% of the RWHP your motor
is making. Add to that an adjustable fuel regulater, a fuel pressure guadge, and
tuning to dial it all in, and your fueling department should be covered.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Apology (no boost)
------------------
I will go ahead and extend my apologies, I am not including Forced Induction in
this write up. I am not one to write about things I dont have clue one about.
I do not know enough about boost to make an informed writeup on it. However,
plans next year have me building a boost car for a friend. Perhaps after that I
will add to this.
So for now, that is all i am going to write on the subject of making more power
in the LS1.......
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
08-06-2005, 07:17 PM
#4
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
PART II.
Drive Train
================================================== ==============================
Chances are that you will never have your 100 shot blow the welds on your intake.
And even though you could not get your dream car, you know the 10 second jetta..
Chances are if you applied some of the above "power section" to your car, that
your car, much like a catapiller in a cacoon, is going to blossom and do something
wonderful for you the first time you hook all that new found power to the track
on a stickey tires......
Its going to brake...Thats right chuckle head, Its going puke out parts of its
drivetrain like someone threw a granade under your car.Congradulations, everyone
in the stands are now pointing and laughing as the stock honda civic,with the
type "R" badge, you lined up with goes on to whip your V8 with a hella fast 15
second timeslip.Dont you feel like the MAN?
Lets avoid this little mishap shall we? In this next section we are going to
talk about your drivetrain. The parts that transfer your motors power into
foward motion . Since there are 2 types of drivetrains that come with Ls1
f-bodies, we will talk about parts as they apply to each of these.
1.MANUAL SIX SPEED (M6)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
First let me congradulate you on buying the stronger of the 2 stock transmissions
. With minimal changes, this tranny in near stock form, has been deep into the
tens. And in built form, has proppelled a f-body to mid 9 second glory. Now for
the bad news. You also possess the single most part-destuctive force known to
civilized man. FACT. M6 cars break more **** in the drive train then most A4 boys
dream about. To avoid this(as best we can) we are going to talk about the parts
made ultra macho, just to stand in defiance to this cruel tyrant called the M6
tranny.
CLUTCH.
---------
Its time to man up and start giving your left leg a seriouse workout. Your stock
clutch(yes even if is a Z06 one) is weak. It is the skinny guy on the beach that
all the other clutches walk by and kick sand in the face of. It will NOT hold
much more then stock HP, and it wont even hold stock hp for long on sticky tires.
If your plans are to run 11's or faster, then you can forget those "oh so cheap"
stage 1 and stage 2 clutches. I hate the term stage because people get wrapped
around the word and forget to think about what they are really buying.
So you wanna be fast? Well you have 2 choices of clutches.
A. Twin Disk........
A twin Disk clutch is very strong, it will most definatly get you were you want
to be. It will also do so while retaining a very comfortable peddle feel, and
streetablility. Sound good? It is. However, as always, with the good news comes
the bad. It is well over 1200 bucks for a respectable twin. If you want that
comfort, you gotta pay for it.
B. Sintered Iron Disk....
Wow, just saying its name makes it sound mannly dont it? Thats because it is.Its
a MAN's clutch. Little pansey boys, that like to complain about too much rasp
or the clanks and rattles that solid end links make, need not apply. If you
do not love the feel of a race car, then DO NOT buy this clutch! But, if you
want a clutch that will kick your car in the *** and say giddy the *** up pony!
Then this is the clutch for you. Your reward for having *****? How does paying
400 bucks less grab ya? Yeh thats what I thought.
For information on how the clutch works and supporting hydrolics please see my
earlyer write up.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...8&page=1&pp=20
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Drive Train
================================================== ==============================
Chances are that you will never have your 100 shot blow the welds on your intake.
And even though you could not get your dream car, you know the 10 second jetta..
Chances are if you applied some of the above "power section" to your car, that
your car, much like a catapiller in a cacoon, is going to blossom and do something
wonderful for you the first time you hook all that new found power to the track
on a stickey tires......
Its going to brake...Thats right chuckle head, Its going puke out parts of its
drivetrain like someone threw a granade under your car.Congradulations, everyone
in the stands are now pointing and laughing as the stock honda civic,with the
type "R" badge, you lined up with goes on to whip your V8 with a hella fast 15
second timeslip.Dont you feel like the MAN?
Lets avoid this little mishap shall we? In this next section we are going to
talk about your drivetrain. The parts that transfer your motors power into
foward motion . Since there are 2 types of drivetrains that come with Ls1
f-bodies, we will talk about parts as they apply to each of these.
1.MANUAL SIX SPEED (M6)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
First let me congradulate you on buying the stronger of the 2 stock transmissions
. With minimal changes, this tranny in near stock form, has been deep into the
tens. And in built form, has proppelled a f-body to mid 9 second glory. Now for
the bad news. You also possess the single most part-destuctive force known to
civilized man. FACT. M6 cars break more **** in the drive train then most A4 boys
dream about. To avoid this(as best we can) we are going to talk about the parts
made ultra macho, just to stand in defiance to this cruel tyrant called the M6
tranny.
CLUTCH.
---------
Its time to man up and start giving your left leg a seriouse workout. Your stock
clutch(yes even if is a Z06 one) is weak. It is the skinny guy on the beach that
all the other clutches walk by and kick sand in the face of. It will NOT hold
much more then stock HP, and it wont even hold stock hp for long on sticky tires.
If your plans are to run 11's or faster, then you can forget those "oh so cheap"
stage 1 and stage 2 clutches. I hate the term stage because people get wrapped
around the word and forget to think about what they are really buying.
So you wanna be fast? Well you have 2 choices of clutches.
A. Twin Disk........
A twin Disk clutch is very strong, it will most definatly get you were you want
to be. It will also do so while retaining a very comfortable peddle feel, and
streetablility. Sound good? It is. However, as always, with the good news comes
the bad. It is well over 1200 bucks for a respectable twin. If you want that
comfort, you gotta pay for it.
B. Sintered Iron Disk....
Wow, just saying its name makes it sound mannly dont it? Thats because it is.Its
a MAN's clutch. Little pansey boys, that like to complain about too much rasp
or the clanks and rattles that solid end links make, need not apply. If you
do not love the feel of a race car, then DO NOT buy this clutch! But, if you
want a clutch that will kick your car in the *** and say giddy the *** up pony!
Then this is the clutch for you. Your reward for having *****? How does paying
400 bucks less grab ya? Yeh thats what I thought.
For information on how the clutch works and supporting hydrolics please see my
earlyer write up.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...8&page=1&pp=20
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
08-06-2005, 07:18 PM
#5
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
DRIVESHAFT
-----------
First things first, you need to say to yourself over and over and over again.
ALUMINUM IS FOR BEER CANS, NOT DRIVESHAFTS!!!!
When it comes to driveshafts I will stand on this statement everyday and twice
on sunday. If your plans include alot of power and a stickey tire then you have
3 choices for driveshafts.
A. STEEL......
Steel is real. Steel is strong. Steel is easy to balance. Steel is afforable.
Can anyone guess what kind of driveahaft I have? Thats right, steel. Steel,
however, is not perfect, it does have 2 troubles. 1. It is heavy, against its
lighter counter parts it does produce slightly more parasitic loss. 2. In the
rare occasion that they do brake, they take alot of stuff with them.
B. CHROMOLY.....
Chromoly, without going into a chemistry class, think of chromoly as having
all the plusses of steel and add to that it weights about 50% less. So why
doesn't everyone have one? Price, ah yes the almighty dollar. These things are
very pricey.
C. CARBON FIBER....
All right! A real use for carbon fiber ,other then making gay looking ricer
hoods!. Carbon fiber is light, very strong, and looks GREAT. One major asset
that carbon fiber has that the other 2 do not, is in the rare case that it
does break, the fibers splinter and crack into what is best descibed as a
broom. This means as you are hitting the breaks and your broken driveshaft
is still spinning , it is NOT hurting anything else. Hell it might even clean
off a thing or 2.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
REAREND
---------
Lets face facts. When the general was building the F-body, he put no thought
whatsoever into the choice of the 10 bolt rear. This rear is not enough to
hold the stock hp and is one of the first things to break when a new fbody
racer heads to the track. In the case of the M6 tranny please do not make a 2500
dollar mistake. If you have spent 1 week on LS1tech then you have heard the words
12 bolt and 9" when it comes to rears. If you have a M6 then I want you to forget
the first of those. You are about to spend 2500 bucks on a rear, do you really
want to break it? 12 bolts are for automatic cars. They last along time in an
auto. But you own the sledgehammer of parts, the T56,breaker of rears. For you
there should be only one choice.....The mighty mighty 9".......
Rear end parts....
Now that you have chosen the correct rear, its time to pick the parts you want
in it. Most every place that sells these rears, will give you these choices.
Posi traction. The best choice for a car that will not see much track time but
still wants a super strong rear.
Detroit Locker.The best choice for a car that will see alot of both street and
strip time. It is more noisey then the posi, but it is also stronger.
Full Spool. So you got a RACE car huh? well this is what you want. Full spool
is the least street friendly of the choices but it is hands down the strongest.
Axles. The simplest way to approach axles is, the more splines, the better.
Gears. This is mainly a matter of personal preferance. 4.11's are perfectly
streetable while also performing well at the track. Numarically higher leans
more to the track use, lower leans more to street car.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. AUTO FOUR SPEED (A4)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Welcome to the wonderful world of the 4l60 transmission. Let me be the first to
congradulate you on entering the world of the broken trans. The 4l60 is not the
cruel tyrant on drivetrain parts that its M6 brother is. It is most definatly
MUCH more parts friendly.Too part friendly. So friendly infact that it will
break itself before it will break other parts.How noble.... The problem is it
does this far too often, and even in full built form this transmission is just
NOT very good for real drag racing. Most in seach of 10 second and quicker time
slips find that they are just not able to do it with the 4L60 tranny. They
usually end up with a th350,th400, or 4l80. the 4l80 being the only one of those
that has over drive.
TORQUE CONVERTER....
Selection of your TC is very important. It has much to do with how quick you
come off the line, and your 60'. The general rule of thumb is 3200-3500 stall
for the LS1 street/strip car. If you are gearing your car more for drag only,
then 3600-4400 will be more your speed.
Another important number you will see is STR. Without going to a mathclass, the
STR of your TC is part of the torque multiplication that happens in your TC.
The higher your STR, the harder your TC hits off the line. You wanna get that
60' down? Then get that STR up!
Rear...
Since you have the more gentle of the 2 giants, the 12 bolt is all you need.
simply apply the same princables as the M6er's do for the 9" selection.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
First things first, you need to say to yourself over and over and over again.
ALUMINUM IS FOR BEER CANS, NOT DRIVESHAFTS!!!!
When it comes to driveshafts I will stand on this statement everyday and twice
on sunday. If your plans include alot of power and a stickey tire then you have
3 choices for driveshafts.
A. STEEL......
Steel is real. Steel is strong. Steel is easy to balance. Steel is afforable.
Can anyone guess what kind of driveahaft I have? Thats right, steel. Steel,
however, is not perfect, it does have 2 troubles. 1. It is heavy, against its
lighter counter parts it does produce slightly more parasitic loss. 2. In the
rare occasion that they do brake, they take alot of stuff with them.
B. CHROMOLY.....
Chromoly, without going into a chemistry class, think of chromoly as having
all the plusses of steel and add to that it weights about 50% less. So why
doesn't everyone have one? Price, ah yes the almighty dollar. These things are
very pricey.
C. CARBON FIBER....
All right! A real use for carbon fiber ,other then making gay looking ricer
hoods!. Carbon fiber is light, very strong, and looks GREAT. One major asset
that carbon fiber has that the other 2 do not, is in the rare case that it
does break, the fibers splinter and crack into what is best descibed as a
broom. This means as you are hitting the breaks and your broken driveshaft
is still spinning , it is NOT hurting anything else. Hell it might even clean
off a thing or 2.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
REAREND
---------
Lets face facts. When the general was building the F-body, he put no thought
whatsoever into the choice of the 10 bolt rear. This rear is not enough to
hold the stock hp and is one of the first things to break when a new fbody
racer heads to the track. In the case of the M6 tranny please do not make a 2500
dollar mistake. If you have spent 1 week on LS1tech then you have heard the words
12 bolt and 9" when it comes to rears. If you have a M6 then I want you to forget
the first of those. You are about to spend 2500 bucks on a rear, do you really
want to break it? 12 bolts are for automatic cars. They last along time in an
auto. But you own the sledgehammer of parts, the T56,breaker of rears. For you
there should be only one choice.....The mighty mighty 9".......
Rear end parts....
Now that you have chosen the correct rear, its time to pick the parts you want
in it. Most every place that sells these rears, will give you these choices.
Posi traction. The best choice for a car that will not see much track time but
still wants a super strong rear.
Detroit Locker.The best choice for a car that will see alot of both street and
strip time. It is more noisey then the posi, but it is also stronger.
Full Spool. So you got a RACE car huh? well this is what you want. Full spool
is the least street friendly of the choices but it is hands down the strongest.
Axles. The simplest way to approach axles is, the more splines, the better.
Gears. This is mainly a matter of personal preferance. 4.11's are perfectly
streetable while also performing well at the track. Numarically higher leans
more to the track use, lower leans more to street car.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. AUTO FOUR SPEED (A4)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Welcome to the wonderful world of the 4l60 transmission. Let me be the first to
congradulate you on entering the world of the broken trans. The 4l60 is not the
cruel tyrant on drivetrain parts that its M6 brother is. It is most definatly
MUCH more parts friendly.Too part friendly. So friendly infact that it will
break itself before it will break other parts.How noble.... The problem is it
does this far too often, and even in full built form this transmission is just
NOT very good for real drag racing. Most in seach of 10 second and quicker time
slips find that they are just not able to do it with the 4L60 tranny. They
usually end up with a th350,th400, or 4l80. the 4l80 being the only one of those
that has over drive.
TORQUE CONVERTER....
Selection of your TC is very important. It has much to do with how quick you
come off the line, and your 60'. The general rule of thumb is 3200-3500 stall
for the LS1 street/strip car. If you are gearing your car more for drag only,
then 3600-4400 will be more your speed.
Another important number you will see is STR. Without going to a mathclass, the
STR of your TC is part of the torque multiplication that happens in your TC.
The higher your STR, the harder your TC hits off the line. You wanna get that
60' down? Then get that STR up!
Rear...
Since you have the more gentle of the 2 giants, the 12 bolt is all you need.
simply apply the same princables as the M6er's do for the 9" selection.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by jaberwaki; 08-06-2005 at 09:31 PM.
08-06-2005, 07:18 PM
#6
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
Part III
Suspention/Chassis
================================================== ==============================
Ok you are ready right? You now have a 500+ rwhp car, with a bullit proof
drivetrain. You slap on your slicks and head to the track. On your first run
the track is cold. The 3rd amber lights and you floor it.... What used to be
your tires, is magically transformed into 2 pillars of billowing smoke .You lose
to a cam only f-body in the next lane...
Frustraited the next time up your perform a burnout that John Force would envy.
People in the stands, stand and cheer and whoop and holler. Determination furrows
your brow as you stage. As the bulbs start to drop you bring your rpms way up...
3rd amber, you peg it. Your Teeth feel like they are going to fly to the back of
your throat, your rearview mirror pops off and is only stopped by the cable
holding it. The front tires head skyward as the track is lost from veiw for a
breif moment. Wheels up BABY you scream in your head as you hit second and the
track returns to view , you steal a glance at the next lane, the other car is
WAY behind, you would look at him in your rearview if it was still hanging right.
You cross the traps well in excess of a 120mph... WOOHOO!!!! You hit the brakes
and make the turn around. At the ticket booth there is a older guy looking hard
at your ride. As you pull up he starts cussing you out... you get kicked off the
track for the day. 10 seconds.... no roll bar...DOH!!! You take your ***
chewing like a champ, only because he hands you that timeslip. You take your car
home... But after a week of driving you start to notice the car pulling to one
side... you get out and inspect. Sure enough your brand new tires are worn BADDLY
on one side. What gives?
Hey remember at the beginning of all this, I asked if you wanted a twisted
chassis? Well congradulations oh master of the clutch dump.... You now have one.
hell you didn't like your now 80,000 car anyways right?
Yeh lets keep this from happening too. and while we are at it we are gonna stop
that first race from being a lose too....
Chssis parts.....
To keep your chassis happy at this power level it still only takes a few peices.
SUB FRAME CONNECTORS....
SFC's are nothing more then mild steel or chromoly bars that are welded to both
your front and rear subframe.This will greatly minimize chassis flex and will
also assist in the lifting of the front when you launch. They really are one
of the first 5 mods you should do.
ROLL BAR/CAGE.....
Under the incredable stress that a drag launch,a roll bar/cage will go one step
further in adding to chassis strength. But that is not the reason you installed
it. You install it to save your life if something goes wronge at the track and
you find yourself riding on your roof at 100 mph. Oh yeh.... and it will help
you avoid getting kicked off the track.If you are faster then 11.49 then you
need a Roll bar. 9.99 and you need a full cage.
K-MEMBER.....
This part is not so much about strength as it is about losing the weight that
your other chassis mods added. You want your car strong, but you also want it
light. This part will more then make up the extra weight.
Suspention Parts.
To keep your tires planted to the ground you need to up your suspention.
SHOCKS....
Shocks control the up and down motion of both the front and back of your car.
Ideally in a drag race you want your front shocks to allow the front to rise
very fast, but to come down slowly. Your rear should assist in tranfering
weight at first, then push the rearend toward the ground as foward movement
begins. You need adjustable shocks to do this. It would be better to have 2 way
adjustable shocks if you can.
SPRINGS.....
Your front springs should be weight specific. If your car is heavy, then you
want a stronger front spring to assist in bringing the front of the car up.
If your car is a tin can then you can go lighter on the front springs.
For a stock weight car i would go with a 300lb front spring, for a really
lite car, 275lbs should be plenty. There is some debate over the rear springs.
Many have gotten there best times on stock rear springs, others what I use,
V6 springs.
LOWER CONTROL ARMS....
LCA's are very important for 3 reasons. 1. They control wheel hop, that is the
violent bouncing of your tires as they try to grab traction. 2. As weight
tranfers from the front to the back, the LCA's apply downward pressure to the
axle housing, planting the tires and aiding in traction.
TORQUE ARM....
The TQ arm does a few vital things for your whole setup. 1. It (with the lca's)
is the pushing point for your rearend. 2. It acts as a ladder system to assist
in weight tranfer. 3. It can evffect and change the pinion angle of the drive
shaft as well. If you intend to race alot, then you want a chassis mount, not
a tranny mount tq arm.
REAR SWAY BAR...
As the power of your motor is translated thru your drivetrain, it create a
natural torque to one side, that is the body trys to twist to one side.
A drag,solid end link rear sway bar, will combat this effect and assist you
leaving the line strait and true.
PAN HARD BAR...
As power is sent violently to your rear, the rearend has a natural want to move
side to side(known to some as the traction shimmy) your Pan hard bar combats
this. If you get an adjustable one, then you can also use it to center your
rearend.
================================================== ==============================
Well boys and girls,
Thats about it for the basics. This write up does not make you an expert by
any strech of the imagination. It does however give you a base of knowledge for
what it takes to be fast. As you can see, its much much more then just making
alot of power.
If you think it is stickey worthy then vote up on it. If you do not, then at
least post a valid reason.
Suspention/Chassis
================================================== ==============================
Ok you are ready right? You now have a 500+ rwhp car, with a bullit proof
drivetrain. You slap on your slicks and head to the track. On your first run
the track is cold. The 3rd amber lights and you floor it.... What used to be
your tires, is magically transformed into 2 pillars of billowing smoke .You lose
to a cam only f-body in the next lane...
Frustraited the next time up your perform a burnout that John Force would envy.
People in the stands, stand and cheer and whoop and holler. Determination furrows
your brow as you stage. As the bulbs start to drop you bring your rpms way up...
3rd amber, you peg it. Your Teeth feel like they are going to fly to the back of
your throat, your rearview mirror pops off and is only stopped by the cable
holding it. The front tires head skyward as the track is lost from veiw for a
breif moment. Wheels up BABY you scream in your head as you hit second and the
track returns to view , you steal a glance at the next lane, the other car is
WAY behind, you would look at him in your rearview if it was still hanging right.
You cross the traps well in excess of a 120mph... WOOHOO!!!! You hit the brakes
and make the turn around. At the ticket booth there is a older guy looking hard
at your ride. As you pull up he starts cussing you out... you get kicked off the
track for the day. 10 seconds.... no roll bar...DOH!!! You take your ***
chewing like a champ, only because he hands you that timeslip. You take your car
home... But after a week of driving you start to notice the car pulling to one
side... you get out and inspect. Sure enough your brand new tires are worn BADDLY
on one side. What gives?
Hey remember at the beginning of all this, I asked if you wanted a twisted
chassis? Well congradulations oh master of the clutch dump.... You now have one.
hell you didn't like your now 80,000 car anyways right?
Yeh lets keep this from happening too. and while we are at it we are gonna stop
that first race from being a lose too....
Chssis parts.....
To keep your chassis happy at this power level it still only takes a few peices.
SUB FRAME CONNECTORS....
SFC's are nothing more then mild steel or chromoly bars that are welded to both
your front and rear subframe.This will greatly minimize chassis flex and will
also assist in the lifting of the front when you launch. They really are one
of the first 5 mods you should do.
ROLL BAR/CAGE.....
Under the incredable stress that a drag launch,a roll bar/cage will go one step
further in adding to chassis strength. But that is not the reason you installed
it. You install it to save your life if something goes wronge at the track and
you find yourself riding on your roof at 100 mph. Oh yeh.... and it will help
you avoid getting kicked off the track.If you are faster then 11.49 then you
need a Roll bar. 9.99 and you need a full cage.
K-MEMBER.....
This part is not so much about strength as it is about losing the weight that
your other chassis mods added. You want your car strong, but you also want it
light. This part will more then make up the extra weight.
Suspention Parts.
To keep your tires planted to the ground you need to up your suspention.
SHOCKS....
Shocks control the up and down motion of both the front and back of your car.
Ideally in a drag race you want your front shocks to allow the front to rise
very fast, but to come down slowly. Your rear should assist in tranfering
weight at first, then push the rearend toward the ground as foward movement
begins. You need adjustable shocks to do this. It would be better to have 2 way
adjustable shocks if you can.
SPRINGS.....
Your front springs should be weight specific. If your car is heavy, then you
want a stronger front spring to assist in bringing the front of the car up.
If your car is a tin can then you can go lighter on the front springs.
For a stock weight car i would go with a 300lb front spring, for a really
lite car, 275lbs should be plenty. There is some debate over the rear springs.
Many have gotten there best times on stock rear springs, others what I use,
V6 springs.
LOWER CONTROL ARMS....
LCA's are very important for 3 reasons. 1. They control wheel hop, that is the
violent bouncing of your tires as they try to grab traction. 2. As weight
tranfers from the front to the back, the LCA's apply downward pressure to the
axle housing, planting the tires and aiding in traction.
TORQUE ARM....
The TQ arm does a few vital things for your whole setup. 1. It (with the lca's)
is the pushing point for your rearend. 2. It acts as a ladder system to assist
in weight tranfer. 3. It can evffect and change the pinion angle of the drive
shaft as well. If you intend to race alot, then you want a chassis mount, not
a tranny mount tq arm.
REAR SWAY BAR...
As the power of your motor is translated thru your drivetrain, it create a
natural torque to one side, that is the body trys to twist to one side.
A drag,solid end link rear sway bar, will combat this effect and assist you
leaving the line strait and true.
PAN HARD BAR...
As power is sent violently to your rear, the rearend has a natural want to move
side to side(known to some as the traction shimmy) your Pan hard bar combats
this. If you get an adjustable one, then you can also use it to center your
rearend.
================================================== ==============================
Well boys and girls,
Thats about it for the basics. This write up does not make you an expert by
any strech of the imagination. It does however give you a base of knowledge for
what it takes to be fast. As you can see, its much much more then just making
alot of power.
If you think it is stickey worthy then vote up on it. If you do not, then at
least post a valid reason.
Last edited by jaberwaki; 08-06-2005 at 09:28 PM.
Trending Topics
08-06-2005, 08:24 PM
#8
VERY nice post Jaberwaki, I learned and I'm not even a newb. It is definitely sticky-worthy in my opinion. I do have one piece of constructive criticism for you: run over it with spell check a time or two. Other than than GREAT info, thanks for taking the time to teach others.
08-06-2005, 08:43 PM
#10
wow, recently it looks like people are trying to take JRP's job. I thinm that newb guide is very good, especially the suspension section. that is what a lot of people overlook. MAKE SURE you tell people who put sticky tires on their cars to have SFC's too unless they like their quarterpanels looking like ruffles potatoe chips
08-06-2005, 08:57 PM
#12
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by yak
wow, recently it looks like people are trying to take JRP's job.
Me and JRP both started helping and learning on this site almost exactly the same time
08-06-2005, 09:39 PM
#13
TECH Addict
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Simi Valley, CA.
Posts: 2,727
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Very good basic info. I really think that will help alot. Moderators......Give this man the sticky treatment....Ooops i mean upgrade this post to a sticky!
08-06-2005, 10:51 PM
#18
11 Second Club
Good writup. It's not too in depth on a lot of those topics, but you covered so much that going into it very far would, well, be too much for any newbies to actually read and comprehend. 
And about taking JRP's job...we are all just sick and tired of answering the same basic questions all the time. It gets boring, but it's hard to ignore the noobs cause they need the info one way or the other.....
The one problem with stickies is that most noobs still don't read them!
It does give us one more link to post up instead of having to type anything.
And about taking JRP's job...we are all just sick and tired of answering the same basic questions all the time. It gets boring, but it's hard to ignore the noobs cause they need the info one way or the other.....
The one problem with stickies is that most noobs still don't read them!
It does give us one more link to post up instead of having to type anything.
