di0ck

hmmm, so im thinking that it'd be a lot easier to get piece of mind by getting the stock one and just doing a good tune-up on it, than getting the modded one and being totally paranoid about the gears and the 10bolt.

Plus, i'll learn more about the fbody by replacing the rotors myself when i need to, and making my own selection for exhaust.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Ok just asking since you had posted about changing the trans fluid.

di0ck

cool. thanks for your interest and input!

Super Speed

iTrader: (8)

A few thousand over the kbb, don't go over you can find great deals for the car if you take your time and wait but that stored one isnt going to be flawless its going to be as good as any 30k mile car for that much money i'm sure you can find a good garage stored one w/ less miles man!

redtail2426

iTrader: (10)

I heard that frequent starting of a stored car is not as good as just leaving it to sit without starting.I guess the added contaminants and moisture created by the frequent starting contaminates the oil with moisture and gas.If the oil cant get up to 212* which i dont think it can just idling,then it wont burn off the extra moisture left in it.I just change my oil right before it gets stored,and let it sit for 6 months.It takes a lot more then sitting to gum up an injector,especialy an ls1 at 58 psi.

di0ck

well i emailed the owner of the stock car b/c i'll be passing through his city on Friday before a regional car club meet, I'm hoping to check out the car and talk to the owner... I've been lookin for T/A's in Los Angeles for the last few months and 30k miles is the lowest i've see so far. Besides, this is about my price range... the other T/A's making my consideration were at like 50k miles some mods and asking $18k...

Hopefully I can talk the guy down to about $20,000 or $19,500 because thats what i've seen a silver ws6 going for with 40k miles and full-boltons+cam!!

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

I'd go for the stock one, you said he has several other T/As, so I would guess he knows something about storing cars, plus you never know about a modded one, the mods might not have been done right, the car may have been beat on (a clutch change at around 30k indicates to me some abusive driving)
Check the stored one out carefully after its been driven, check for leaks (seals can dry out during long term storage) not so much on the engine, as its been run, but the trans and rear
Good luck with your search

di0ck

thank you very much, those are pretty good tips to drive the car and then check for leaks in the driveline. I'm gonna bring some shop lights, my floor jack and jack stands, so i can really check it out.

hopefully he emails me back or calls the # i left him.

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

MY OPINION..get the car thats been sitting...with those mods its OBVIOUS that driver had probably wanted to race it MEANING he abused it...probably a little more than you think!!!! we own a couple classic/show cars that stay parked in the garage (67 vette, 57 belair) and my dad starts them about once a month sometimes even longer...they are running fine and nothing is wrong with them...in MY OPINION if you buy that modded one you are just asking to have it crap out on YOU..get the car that has been taken care of!

di0ck

thanks! good to hear from other car collector's in regards to storing cars.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

There are arguements on both sides of that. Letting the motor sit without starting for long periods of time can cause the rings to score the cylinder walls from sitting in one position so long.

Personally, I try to start mine once every month or two during my 5 month winter storage period, which means I usually end up running the motor 3-4 times during the term of storage. This allows me to run the A/C compressor as well to lubricate the system. I've been doing that with all my F-bodies that I've stored over the winters for many, many years now without any issues.

I guess the ultimate precaution would be to crank the motor without starting it, just to put the pistons in a different position. You could just pull power/fuses to the injectors and ignition system so it won't fire. But I still like to be able to run the A/C system as well, which you need to run the motor to do.

I don't see 3-4 starts plus associated 20-30 minute idling periods over a 5-6 month time frame causing any serious breakdown in the oil, however, I would not recommend starting the car every few days during winter storage as I see some people doing. I could certainly see dozens of cold starts with nothing but idling possibily causing significant breakdown of the oil.

circusboy

iTrader: (2)

If the owner lets you jack up his car, make sure you put the jack at the correct jacking point. It would be bad if you messed up his fenders,

I vote for the stock one.

350-Z28

iTrader: (2)

I voted for mildly modded one, if the guy is concerned about fuel economy and shifts like that i doubt it was beaten. The one that sat worries me because of last oil change, granted it never drove, and has only idled once a month that could lead to problems later down the line. A lot of time spent at idle wears out parts that need to be exercised. I voted mildly modded one just cause she got out a little more and you wont have to worry about engine problems cause by sitting and idling.

Just noticed mention of a clutch change. Could also have been the guy simply wanted a perf clutch and had money to throw around. I replaced the entire clutch system in my 84 when only the master cylinder was bad, and went with a heavy duty mild performance clutch. And that clutch in there, with 5k on the clock will get replaced again with an engine swap. Just playing devils advocate, saw a few vehicles stored that have been run over storage period have issues, noticeably oil control rings. Wasn't an LS1 powered car but still, same principle, good luck. And whichever car you buy if it breaks you can feel free to give me title and keys =P

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

That can work both ways. I actually own a vehicle that was stored for too long without being run ('76 Eldorado), about two years. Ran perfect before storage. When i did start to run it again, the motor almost immediately developed internal issues. Only reason I didn't run that car during storage once in awhile like my Camaro was due to laziness. I had a lot of junk stored in the way because the car was not driveable (needed major brake system work, still does actually) and I just wasn't motivated to keep up with running it like I should have been.

On the other hand, I've had no issues at all with the F-bodies I've stored over ~6 month periods being run a few times in that time frame. I think a limited amount of cold starts during storage is key.....just often enough to re-coat the valvetrain with oil and get the piston rings in a different spot on the cylinder bore every so often. Also, as i stated above, this allows for the oppertunity to run/lubricate the A/C system as well.

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

what you need to do is ask the owner ALOT of questions...take the car for a test drive, thats the best way to see how a car runs

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

on saturday im looking at a 2001 SS, 21k miles, m6. i already got a lot of questions asked, when i see it im guna inspect it front/back/right side up/upside down and then test drive it. if its cherry then im driving home with a new car

di0ck

Well I got his number tonight and called him. Nice gentlemen, guessing mid30s, very willing to talk. Told me a lot about his other collection of cars, i was impressed with his 3rd gen fbody enthusiasm!

I've made arrangements to see the car on Friday at 8pm. I will get to drive the car, but since its registered as non-op vehicle, the tags are dated 2004!! That will sort of keep us from driving toooo far or for thaaat long. He lives in Redondo Beach so its all pretty urban and another traffic filled LA nightscene, and we don't want to be pulled over!

I talked to him about all the great advice that I learned from all you guys! So we talked about fuel stabilzer [which he did use!], about running the a/c and bringing the car to full operating temperature when warming it up. SoCal only only has a few cold days a year below 50deg. and im sure he wouldnt have started it on one of those mornings when it'll back to the 70's next week.

I asked him if he had a jack and jack stands so i could get under her after we drive it so I can inspect the drivetrain for any leaks. He understood and approved, also mentioning that there have been no leaks on the garage floor beneath it the entire time.

That will be Friday night.

Then... Here's a bit of help i'm gonna try to get.

My brother's friend is always over at my house, and is very knowledgable with the LS1. He is a mechanic at MagnaCharger in Ventura, ca where they specialize in roots-style blowers for the C5s and GTO's with LS1's and LS6's. I've asked him if, on friday i decide i want to further with the deal, he would return to see the car with me. This would be on the weekend, so then i'd be able to get a look at the car with daylight too!! I'm asking my brother's friend to help inspect the motor and drivetrain his more skilled eye!

rgaynor85

Go with the stock one, not a big deal changing fluids and running cleaner throught the fuel system, the cars is all original and if its in storage from a collector you know its probably meticulously taken care of. the modded car, like many have said is probably beat on and taken alot of abuse, and that rear might be ready to snap. id would go with the stored car dude its the only smart choice. just think 21+ thousand is a big investment go with the better investment choice

Swang

iTrader: (3)

yeah, i start mine once every couple weeks and let it run for like an hour. drive it around the lot, cutting the wheel fully each way making a figure 8, rev it up after it gets up to operating temp...i think its better for it personally than never starting it.

Swang

iTrader: (3)

oh btw...id say get the stocker. anyone who puts in 4.10's for ***** and giggles is rare...and i doubt this guy is it...i bet its been raced, maybe not abused...but raced ill bet.