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$4k - what should i do?

Old 01-26-2006, 07:46 PM
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Default $4k - what should i do?

Okay when i graduate i should have about 4k saved up in the bank just for modifiying (gotta save for college) (After i trade the blazer for an LS1) and i am wondering what are the most cost effective mods to run low 11's if possible.....

I was thinking-

4K stall / shift kit
Direct port 200 shot
DR's
Exhaust / lid / headers
Traction bars and other suspension odds/ends for launching

Anyone got any other thoughts or a different path?
Old 01-26-2006, 08:09 PM
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How bout a H/C, 175 shot, and suspension mods. A 200 shot is alot of bottle to be spraying into a LS1 maybe some forged internals
Old 01-26-2006, 08:28 PM
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if u have an auto with a 4k stall, a good heads and cam will get u into the 11's easy. get a good set of tires and u will have no problem.
Old 01-26-2006, 08:31 PM
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You definitely won't need a 200 shot for 11's... Id start with a stall, full exhaust, lid, ported TB, cam kit, tune, SUSPENSION AND TIRES... if that doesn't quite get you there then add a shot of juice. I'm pretty sure there are quite a few guys on the board going 11's with stock internals and no juice (correct me if I am wrong)
Old 01-26-2006, 08:34 PM
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Lets try this in the Internals section, since this isn't quite Advanced Tech worthy content.
Old 01-26-2006, 08:37 PM
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dont forget a 12 bolt
Old 01-26-2006, 08:52 PM
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Don't need a 12 bolt for a auto.
Old 01-26-2006, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Sgt. Spuds
Don't need a 12 bolt for a auto.
With stickies, knocking on the door of about 400rwhp, and a few launches under your belt you do.
Old 01-26-2006, 09:01 PM
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it would definatly be a smart thing to do to get a rear end especially if your going to be on DR's, cause even if u dont get one and u dont end up needing one and your 10 bolt holds up i would still like knowing with comfort that my rearend isnt going to make it off the line.
Old 01-26-2006, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Sgt. Spuds
Don't need a 12 bolt for a auto.
You do with a 200 shot and a 4000 stall.
I ran an 8.11 in the 1/8 about a 12.5-12.6 with nothing but a 3400 stall LT's ORY. magnaflow catback, k&n fipk and a set of 26x10.5 Et Streets on a bad track prep night. I'd say go with the heads/cam exhaust. Easy 11.80's or better.
Old 01-26-2006, 09:05 PM
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heads and cam with 100 shot or sts turbo system. either way you will be all smiles
Old 01-26-2006, 09:07 PM
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Man I must be a slow typer. Two people submitted basically the same thing b/f I could get it typed. That should tell you something.( Other than I'm a slow typer LOL)
Old 01-26-2006, 09:09 PM
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I'd get the car first.
Old 01-26-2006, 09:26 PM
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sts turbo 3999 . Then the supporting mods later while you enjoy having a turbo LS1.
Old 01-27-2006, 06:51 AM
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I know of people deep into the 10's on stock 10 bolts...
Old 01-27-2006, 07:16 AM
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You are smart to start with the basic stuff. If you're trying to save your money, or are on a tight budget, I don't recommend hastily jumping into the 10-11 sec range. I'm with 67maro, a 200 shot is a little much. Granted, LS1's are very reliable motors and can withstand a lot, but little (sometimes big) things start to go wrong when you start dumping more power to the ground--especially "cheaply".
Old 01-27-2006, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 02Vortech
Okay when i graduate i should have about 4k saved up in the bank just for modifiying (gotta save for college) (After i trade the blazer for an LS1) and i am wondering what are the most cost effective mods to run low 11's if possible.....

I was thinking-

4K stall / shift kit
Direct port 200 shot
DR's
Exhaust / lid / headers
Traction bars and other suspension odds/ends for launching

Anyone got any other thoughts or a different path?
Lots of possible routes. If plan on keeping the car though might as well start with a good basis to build on over time.

Originally Posted by 300bhp/ton
Induction:
TSP Lid Texas Speed & Performance $95.00

Exhaust:
PaceSetter Exhaust Ceramic-Coated Long Tube Headers, 1998-1999 LS1 F-Body with Emissions Fittings, With TSP 3" Y-Pipe with Hi-Flow Catalytic Converters Texas Speed & Performance $700.00
SLP Loud Mouth single 3.5" slash tip on each side Texas Speed & Performance $405.99

Transmission:
Pro Yank 3400 Yank $995.00
Perma Cool 20-22000 GVW Transmission Cooler Texas Speed & Performance $49.99

Suspension & Chassis:
Tubular Shock Tower Brace Spohn Performance $85.00
Lower Control Arms - Boxed with Poly Bushings Spohn Performance $140.00
LCA Mounting Hardware Kit (F) Spohn Performance $10.95
Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets Spohn Performance $65.00
Panhard Bar - Adjustable with Poly Bushings Spohn Performance $125.00
Panhard Bar Mounting Hardware Kit Spohn Performance $10.95
Spohn Sway Bars - Solid 4140 Chrome Moly Spohn Performance $295.00
Poly Bushing & Chassis Grease - 14 oz. Tube Spohn Performance $15.00
Polyurethane Transmission Mount - GM Spohn Performance $24.50
Boxed Style Weld-In Subframe Connectors UMI Performance Inc $139.99
F-Body Tunnel Brace Mounted Torque Arm - Long Tube Header Set-ups UMI Performance Inc $499.98
Prothane Polyurethane Motor Mounts (Pair), 98-02 F-body Thunder Racing $49.99

Additional Performance modifications:
SLP LS6 Intake Manifold with EGR Provision Texas Speed & Performance $498.99
Thunder Racing LS1 Cam Swap Package w/ Dual Valve Springsxincluding gasket set ($54.99) and complete with TR2xx/2xx-11x Camshaft Thunder Racing $854.98

Road Wheels & Tyres:
American Racing Equipment Classic Torq-Thrust II Wheels 17 x 9.5 Summit Racing $1,371.96
275/40R17 tyres x 4

Drag Racing Wheels & Tyres:
Mickey Thompson Street ET Radial 255/50R16 (fits sotck 16 x 8 rims) Thunder Racing $335.98

Tuning:
VCM Suite Pro HP Tuners $499.00
Dyno Tune ~$400.00


TOTAL (excluding road tyres) $7668.25
This also isn't including a 12 bolt which runs at about $2300-2500. Plus you'd need to look at labour if you don't do the work yourself.

Which cam would depend on whether you plan on NOS, FI or n/a. Either way you could easily have a very nice 400rwhp+ n/a car that will be able to make use of the power and handle as well.

Just pick which parts you want to get first.
Old 01-27-2006, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Sgt. Spuds
I know of people deep into the 10's on stock 10 bolts...
congratulations.....and i know a 6 cylinder car that makes over 1000rwhp....and a stock bottom end TA making 650rwhp.So what,just because someones doing it doesnt make it a smart move.Yes an A4 is easier than an M6 on the rearend,but seeing as how you can get 1 for about $1800 nowadays(do some searching), itll save him in the long run.

02 vortech.......So smart money would do:
12 bolt~$1800
Suspension:
subframe connectors
lower control arms
torque arm
torque converter
~$900
cam springs retainers pushrods~$750
150hp wet shot nitrous kit~$600
lid,headers,exhaust~$500
Total=$~4550=11 second pass
Thats close to your budget minus tires.....you can do it on a budget if you focus less on hp and more on traction...good luck with what you decide.
Old 01-27-2006, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 02Vortech
Okay when i graduate i should have about 4k saved up in the bank just for modifiying (gotta save for college) (After i trade the blazer for an LS1) and i am wondering what are the most cost effective mods to run low 11's if possible.....

I was thinking-

4K stall / shift kit
Direct port 200 shot
DR's
Exhaust / lid / headers
Traction bars and other suspension odds/ends for launching

Anyone got any other thoughts or a different path?
Oh my, you're going to have a harsh realization when you start modding LS1 cars. They are EXPENSIVE. It will nickle and dime you to death. Especially when nickle = $500 and dime = $1000.

Drag radials, conveter, camshaft, exhaust, and small shot will get you deep into the 11's for fairly cheap, as long as nothing breaks. But that's the problem. **** will be breaking that you diddnt even know was there.

I got to adding up the money i've spent on my heap and its outrageous. I've ALMOST spent as much on it as i paid for it, and it wont even go 120 in the 1/4.


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