Soon to be LS1 Owner... Few questions...
#1
Soon to be LS1 Owner... Few questions...
Hey I might be buying a 2002 LS1 Camaro and had a few questions. Sorry if they are incredibly newbish. I know relatively little about these, I've always been kind of a Mustang guy. So anyway, any answers/input would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks in advance!
1. There are 3 engine HP ratings available, how do you tell which one yours has without getting in on a dyno?
2. What's it take to get these into the low 12s/high 11s? (other than power adders)
3. The one I want to buy has 50k miles, anything to watch out for or any maintenence(sp?) problems these are known for?
4. Whats recommended fuel for these? They have 10:1 compression so is that too high for regular 87 Octane?
5. Looking for 350RWHP. What are the best mods to get there?
6. Are they actually all governed to 110 or is that a rumor? If so, do they make handheld tuners for them like they do with the Mustangs?
7. How much faster are these than the 99-04GT's (what I have now)?
8. How well do these respond to basic bolt ons and other mods? I know with my 99GT I could do full basic boltons and only gain about 50HP
Well that's all I have for now, I'll add more later if I think of any. I do apologize if this is the wrong forum for this, but a lot of my questions were more bolt-on related so I figured this section would appropriate.
Thanks!
Jeremy
1. There are 3 engine HP ratings available, how do you tell which one yours has without getting in on a dyno?
2. What's it take to get these into the low 12s/high 11s? (other than power adders)
3. The one I want to buy has 50k miles, anything to watch out for or any maintenence(sp?) problems these are known for?
4. Whats recommended fuel for these? They have 10:1 compression so is that too high for regular 87 Octane?
5. Looking for 350RWHP. What are the best mods to get there?
6. Are they actually all governed to 110 or is that a rumor? If so, do they make handheld tuners for them like they do with the Mustangs?
7. How much faster are these than the 99-04GT's (what I have now)?
8. How well do these respond to basic bolt ons and other mods? I know with my 99GT I could do full basic boltons and only gain about 50HP
Well that's all I have for now, I'll add more later if I think of any. I do apologize if this is the wrong forum for this, but a lot of my questions were more bolt-on related so I figured this section would appropriate.
Thanks!
Jeremy
#2
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
Nice s/n
I'll tell yo what I know
An ls1 is an ls1 is an ls1, they were seriously underrated from the factory, the only real difference is the 01 & 02s got the LS6 intake, so in general they are the quicker ones (not by much tho)
For times vs what mods, drop down to the drag racing section, and see what they're running, that'll give you a better idea of what to do to get the times you want (they can be high 12 cars stock, so it usually doesn't take alot for low 12s)
Watch out for the 10 bolt, a stock M6 can break it, autos are easier on it, the window motors suck, check the shifting (if M6) if it pops out of gear the shift forks are bent, other than the squeaks creaks and groans from the body they're pretty stout vehicles
You want to use 91 octane (minimum) no 87 that's asking for problems
to get to 350RWHP, just take a look around, there are many at that power level (personally I'd use n2o, easy and cheap HP)
The tires determine the top speed, if they weren't z rated then the top speed is 115, if they were z rated top speed is 162, they do make handhelds
Unless it's a Cobra, LS1 should win (talking stock v stock with equal drivers)
They seem to do quite well with the basic lid LTs ORY and catback, again just browse the forums you'll see what you can get out of an ls1
Read the stickys, browse the forums (use the search if it's up) all your questions will be answered, there's a boat load of knowledge on this site concerning ls1s, if you want tech you've come to the right place
BTW welcome "a"board
I'll tell yo what I know
An ls1 is an ls1 is an ls1, they were seriously underrated from the factory, the only real difference is the 01 & 02s got the LS6 intake, so in general they are the quicker ones (not by much tho)
For times vs what mods, drop down to the drag racing section, and see what they're running, that'll give you a better idea of what to do to get the times you want (they can be high 12 cars stock, so it usually doesn't take alot for low 12s)
Watch out for the 10 bolt, a stock M6 can break it, autos are easier on it, the window motors suck, check the shifting (if M6) if it pops out of gear the shift forks are bent, other than the squeaks creaks and groans from the body they're pretty stout vehicles
You want to use 91 octane (minimum) no 87 that's asking for problems
to get to 350RWHP, just take a look around, there are many at that power level (personally I'd use n2o, easy and cheap HP)
The tires determine the top speed, if they weren't z rated then the top speed is 115, if they were z rated top speed is 162, they do make handhelds
Unless it's a Cobra, LS1 should win (talking stock v stock with equal drivers)
They seem to do quite well with the basic lid LTs ORY and catback, again just browse the forums you'll see what you can get out of an ls1
Read the stickys, browse the forums (use the search if it's up) all your questions will be answered, there's a boat load of knowledge on this site concerning ls1s, if you want tech you've come to the right place
BTW welcome "a"board
#7
Originally Posted by Swang
350 hp could be headers, lid and cut out. doesnt take much. i dynoed 318hp/325tq with just a lid and mines a 2000
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#8
Originally Posted by then00b
Hey I might be buying a 2002 LS1 Camaro and had a few questions. Sorry if they are incredibly newbish. I know relatively little about these, I've always been kind of a Mustang guy. So anyway, any answers/input would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks in advance!
1. There are 3 engine HP ratings available, how do you tell which one yours has without getting in on a dyno?
2. What's it take to get these into the low 12s/high 11s? (other than power adders)
3. The one I want to buy has 50k miles, anything to watch out for or any maintenence(sp?) problems these are known for?
4. Whats recommended fuel for these? They have 10:1 compression so is that too high for regular 87 Octane?
5. Looking for 350RWHP. What are the best mods to get there?
6. Are they actually all governed to 110 or is that a rumor? If so, do they make handheld tuners for them like they do with the Mustangs?
7. How much faster are these than the 99-04GT's (what I have now)?
8. How well do these respond to basic bolt ons and other mods? I know with my 99GT I could do full basic boltons and only gain about 50HP
Well that's all I have for now, I'll add more later if I think of any. I do apologize if this is the wrong forum for this, but a lot of my questions were more bolt-on related so I figured this section would appropriate.
Thanks!
Jeremy
1. There are 3 engine HP ratings available, how do you tell which one yours has without getting in on a dyno?
2. What's it take to get these into the low 12s/high 11s? (other than power adders)
3. The one I want to buy has 50k miles, anything to watch out for or any maintenence(sp?) problems these are known for?
4. Whats recommended fuel for these? They have 10:1 compression so is that too high for regular 87 Octane?
5. Looking for 350RWHP. What are the best mods to get there?
6. Are they actually all governed to 110 or is that a rumor? If so, do they make handheld tuners for them like they do with the Mustangs?
7. How much faster are these than the 99-04GT's (what I have now)?
8. How well do these respond to basic bolt ons and other mods? I know with my 99GT I could do full basic boltons and only gain about 50HP
Well that's all I have for now, I'll add more later if I think of any. I do apologize if this is the wrong forum for this, but a lot of my questions were more bolt-on related so I figured this section would appropriate.
Thanks!
Jeremy
1. Don't pay attention to factory ratings. "An LS1 is a LS1 is a LS1."
2. It's not too hard to get low 12's, high 11's. Figure around a 13.3 stock average and work from there. There are a few different routes to go. It's been a long time since I been to the track, but I would imagine 375rwhp should net you low 12's.
3. Buyer beware when buying a used f-body. I know I feel sorry for whoever ended up with my old Trans Am cause I beat the hell out of it. If you buy it from someone on a message board such as this go back and look at their posts. If it were me, I would look for a stock car. If a car's been modded, it increases the likelyhood it was beat on.
4. ALWAYS run the best fuel you can find (93 octane if you can find it). If you run 88 you might have some pinging.
5. Your goal is 350 rwhp? That's not too hard. Heck you could even be able to get there with bolt ons and a tune. My 99 TA dynod 300rwhp stock.
6. You've heard a half truth. The automatic ones with the NON Z-rated tires came limited at 118. I topped my LS1 Trans Am out at 162+ mph, so no worries there.
7. Glad you asked. Stock for stock they will walk all over a 99-04 GT. Hell I could even edge out a Supercharged Saleen 281 with only a lid and a cutout.
8. This is the bad news. Full boltons is only going to net you around 50rwhp, however there are more than a few 400+rwhp cam only cars. Don't worry about making power, the LS1 is a great platform to start from.
#10
Originally Posted by then00b
Yeah but doesnt the SS have like 40more HP stock?
#11
Originally Posted by Zoltan
Nope, even though they were rated differently, they have the same horsepower. A LS1 Corvette, Formula, Camaro Z28, Camaro SS, Trans Am, Trans Am WS6, LS1 GTO, and even the Firehawk pretty much make the same power no matter what GM says.
#12
Originally Posted by then00b
Ahh.... I'm no expert, but wouldnt the Vette have less hp at the wheels because it has IRS? Anyways, isnt really relevant. So can these beat 05GTs assuming both drivers are of equal skill?
#13
Originally Posted by Zoltan
Other than directing you to the search button and or to stickies, I'll actually try to help you out.
1. Don't pay attention to factory ratings. "An LS1 is a LS1 is a LS1."
2. It's not too hard to get low 12's, high 11's. Figure around a 13.3 stock average and work from there. There are a few different routes to go. It's been a long time since I been to the track, but I would imagine 375rwhp should net you low 12's.
3. Buyer beware when buying a used f-body. I know I feel sorry for whoever ended up with my old Trans Am cause I beat the hell out of it. If you buy it from someone on a message board such as this go back and look at their posts. If it were me, I would look for a stock car. If a car's been modded, it increases the likelyhood it was beat on.
4. ALWAYS run the best fuel you can find (93 octane if you can find it). If you run 88 you might have some pinging.
5. Your goal is 350 rwhp? That's not too hard. Heck you could even be able to get there with bolt ons and a tune. My 99 TA dynod 300rwhp stock.
6. You've heard a half truth. The automatic ones with the NON Z-rated tires came limited at 118. I topped my LS1 Trans Am out at 162+ mph, so no worries there.
7. Glad you asked. Stock for stock they will walk all over a 99-04 GT. Hell I could even edge out a Supercharged Saleen 281 with only a lid and a cutout.
8. This is the bad news. Full boltons is only going to net you around 50rwhp, however there are more than a few 400+rwhp cam only cars. Don't worry about making power, the LS1 is a great platform to start from.
1. Don't pay attention to factory ratings. "An LS1 is a LS1 is a LS1."
2. It's not too hard to get low 12's, high 11's. Figure around a 13.3 stock average and work from there. There are a few different routes to go. It's been a long time since I been to the track, but I would imagine 375rwhp should net you low 12's.
3. Buyer beware when buying a used f-body. I know I feel sorry for whoever ended up with my old Trans Am cause I beat the hell out of it. If you buy it from someone on a message board such as this go back and look at their posts. If it were me, I would look for a stock car. If a car's been modded, it increases the likelyhood it was beat on.
4. ALWAYS run the best fuel you can find (93 octane if you can find it). If you run 88 you might have some pinging.
5. Your goal is 350 rwhp? That's not too hard. Heck you could even be able to get there with bolt ons and a tune. My 99 TA dynod 300rwhp stock.
6. You've heard a half truth. The automatic ones with the NON Z-rated tires came limited at 118. I topped my LS1 Trans Am out at 162+ mph, so no worries there.
7. Glad you asked. Stock for stock they will walk all over a 99-04 GT. Hell I could even edge out a Supercharged Saleen 281 with only a lid and a cutout.
8. This is the bad news. Full boltons is only going to net you around 50rwhp, however there are more than a few 400+rwhp cam only cars. Don't worry about making power, the LS1 is a great platform to start from.
Also how good are these on top end runs on the street? Could it lick an SRT-4 from a roll?
#14
Hey n00b, welcome aboard, I must admit I have respect for 'Stangs myself... everyone else has answered the power questions, an LS1 is an LS1 the Camaros, Firebirds, Vettes and GTOs are ALL putting out about 340-350 at the crank, but just with reference to the fuel question - I put 89 octane in my Z once and it was a BAD idea... it ran REALLY rough... best not to buy one of these cars unless you're willing to commit to giving 'er the good stuff...
And YES they can walk an 05 GT with NO problem I've seen it happen...
I have heard that if the car was not ordered with the Z rated tires from the factory there will be a governor and it should be indicated by the top speed shown on your speedo, but I've never personally seen such a car, and the Z rated tires were an option on the autos as well not just the M6's... because I have an auto... and I happen to personally know from experience mine is NOT governed to 118
And YES they can walk an 05 GT with NO problem I've seen it happen...
I have heard that if the car was not ordered with the Z rated tires from the factory there will be a governor and it should be indicated by the top speed shown on your speedo, but I've never personally seen such a car, and the Z rated tires were an option on the autos as well not just the M6's... because I have an auto... and I happen to personally know from experience mine is NOT governed to 118
#15
Originally Posted by stevespewterZ
Hey n00b, welcome aboard, I must admit I have respect for 'Stangs myself... everyone else has answered the power questions, an LS1 is an LS1 the Camaros, Firebirds, Vettes and GTOs are ALL putting out about 340-350 at the crank, but just with reference to the fuel question - I put 89 octane in my Z once and it was a BAD idea... it ran REALLY rough... best not to buy one of these cars unless you're willing to commit to giving 'er the good stuff...
And YES they can walk an 05 GT with NO problem I've seen it happen...
I have heard that if the car was not ordered with the Z rated tires from the factory there will be a governor and it should be indicated by the top speed shown on your speedo, but I've never personally seen such a car, and the Z rated tires were an option on the autos as well not just the M6's... because I have an auto... and I happen to personally know from experience mine is NOT governed to 118
And YES they can walk an 05 GT with NO problem I've seen it happen...
I have heard that if the car was not ordered with the Z rated tires from the factory there will be a governor and it should be indicated by the top speed shown on your speedo, but I've never personally seen such a car, and the Z rated tires were an option on the autos as well not just the M6's... because I have an auto... and I happen to personally know from experience mine is NOT governed to 118
Okay cool. I don't care about running premium or not, just wondered.... I looked at cars.com and it says the standard wheels are 16" with H rated tires... So I am assuming it has the lower governor. What's the best way to change this, would I have to buy a tuner? I like to do top end runs now and again...
#16
If you buy any of the handheld PCM tuners available (Hypertech, Diablo, etc.) they can remove the limiter for you... as could a custom dyno tune as well, of course. They can also remove the CAGS skip-shift feature if you buy an M6.
#17
Originally Posted by stevespewterZ
If you buy any of the handheld PCM tuners available (Hypertech, Diablo, etc.) they can remove the limiter for you... as could a custom dyno tune as well, of course. They can also remove the CAGS skip-shift feature if you buy an M6.
#18
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
Skip shift is a solenoid that blocks you out of second gear, and forces you to go to 4th during low speed driving (basically lets you know you're driving like a ***** )
You can get rid of it with a $.99 resistor from radio shack, or spend $30 on some fancy SLP cags delete
You can get rid of it with a $.99 resistor from radio shack, or spend $30 on some fancy SLP cags delete
#19
i ate a standard mach 1 last nite 3 times wit my a4 ws6.. dumba$$ dude said he dont race ls1's and he raced me.. idiot! (dude said he ran high 11's) and my ws6 is all stock wit magnaflows.. this guy was stupid
#20
Originally Posted by stevespewterZ
I have heard that if the car was not ordered with the Z rated tires from the factory there will be a governor and it should be indicated by the top speed shown on your speedo, but I've never personally seen such a car, and the Z rated tires were an option on the autos as well not just the M6's... because I have an auto... and I happen to personally know from experience mine is NOT governed to 118
You can check the RPO codes on the door to see what the car came with from the factory...