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First mods for my LS1. Any suggestions?

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Old 03-17-2006, 06:48 PM
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Default First mods for my LS1. Any suggestions?

Okay so after reading the stickies I have compiled a list of the first mods I want to do to my LS1 when/if I get it. Any suggestions as to mods I should and should not do are greatly appreciated.

1. Lid
2. Shortshifter (Pro 5.0 if it's a good one)
3. Throttle Body (BBK?)
4. Catback
5. Longtubes + O/R Y
6. Fernco Mod lol

Hopin for 350 at the wheels with those mods. Think it's possible?
Old 03-17-2006, 06:48 PM
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no way you will get 350 to the wheels with that, you need headers,intake manifold depending on yr,ud pulley the list goes on
Old 03-17-2006, 06:51 PM
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I think a lid and the free mods are most of the first mods. Cat-back is usually the second, but had my whole exhause done with Headers. With all those mods, Lid, 80mm TB, headers, catback, and crappy HPP3 tuner, I hit 340RWHP and 352TQ.
Old 03-17-2006, 07:01 PM
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IMO i would not do a throttle body until you decide if you want the 90mm fast intake. i don't think the gains are worth the money. and try to remember you are probably only making 300 at the wheels so you have to make more than another 50 hp at the flywheel to get it to the wheels. also don't always beleive the advetised hp. i would get a hand held tuner instead of the throttle body more bang for the buck.
Old 03-17-2006, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by nomadnate
IMO i would not do a throttle body until you decide if you want the 90mm fast intake. i don't think the gains are worth the money. and try to remember you are probably only making 300 at the wheels so you have to make more than another 50 hp at the flywheel to get it to the wheels. also don't always beleive the advetised hp. i would get a hand held tuner instead of the throttle body more bang for the buck.

Okay how about I get pullys instead of the TBody and have my stock one ported. Then I'll get a cutout and a handheld instead of the catback. Sound like a good plan?

Also, whats a good handheld for the LS1s?
Old 03-17-2006, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by then00b
Okay so after reading the stickies I have compiled a list of the first mods I want to do to my LS1 when/if I get it. Any suggestions as to mods I should and should not do are greatly appreciated.

1. Lid
2. Shortshifter (Pro 5.0 if it's a good one)
3. Throttle Body (BBK?)
4. Catback
5. Longtubes + O/R Y
6. Fernco Mod lol

Hopin for 350 at the wheels with those mods. Think it's possible?
Hold off on the Throttle Body and get you a cam, that would be a little more costly if you paid someone to do the install but IMO better use of your $$$.

Good luck.
Old 03-17-2006, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by blkbird_WS-6
Hold off on the Throttle Body and get you a cam, that would be a little more costly if you paid someone to do the install but IMO better use of your $$$.

Good luck.
Is full exhaust mandatory for a cam? If I did get a cam I would have to hold off on the longtubes + y. Also, can you use a handheld to tune for a cam? I would have to do a lot of travelling to find a good shop that can tune...
Old 03-17-2006, 07:26 PM
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you'll get the most out of a cam with full exhaust. Buddy ran a Magic Stick on stock ported manifolds and gutted stock cats through factory exhaust. Car needed a tune, but still ran well.
Old 03-17-2006, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by then00b
Okay how about I get pullys instead of the TBody and have my stock one ported. Then I'll get a cutout and a handheld instead of the catback. Sound like a good plan?

Also, whats a good handheld for the LS1s?

i think it sounds good. i would go to the tune section for handheld info. and IMO i would do exhaust before a cam. for the sound and makes the cam more effiecient.
Old 03-17-2006, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by nomadnate
i think it sounds good. i would go to the tune section for handheld info. and IMO i would do exhaust before a cam. for the sound and makes the cam more effiecient.
But there is no risk in having a cam with stock exhaust is here?
Old 03-17-2006, 08:43 PM
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Just port the stock throttle body for now.

Full exhaust before cam unless you come up with a specific reason not to, for example, having to pass an emissions visual.

If you get a healthy size cam (>224) gears are highly recommended.

You probably won't hit 350 rwhp without every standard bolt-on and a tune.

Don't worry about what the dyno says. The dyno is a tuning tool only, you can't race a dyno. Track numbers are what matter.

Don't get a handheld such as HPP3, get something better such as HP Tuners or simply have a sponsor do the tune(s) for you.
Old 03-17-2006, 08:48 PM
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first mods:
lid
catback
headers, y pipe
underdrive pulley
DONT BUY A NEW TB. just port the stock one!!!!
DONT buy a new MAF

AND IF YOUR CAR COMES WITH THE HURST SHIFTER dont buy another shifter!!!!!!! just buy a short stick for 20$ and it will feel like a whole new shifter. trust me.

if u get a 01-02 u dont need to get an intake...but if u get previous years get the ls6 intake
Old 03-17-2006, 08:49 PM
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i don't know that it would cause a problem but perhaps this is a question to refer to the internal engine group if no one on here answers. but the way i look at it a cam is select by the mods you have and you don't want to buy your mods by your cam or have to buy another cam later on down the road. IMO of course
Old 03-17-2006, 08:51 PM
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there is a cam out for running with stock exhaust...i think its the Cheatr? could be wrong, but hold off on the cam...trust me the stock motor is plenty fast, and once u get bolt ons itll get even faster....
Old 03-17-2006, 09:02 PM
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If you car doesn't have a factory hurst shifter, and youre looking to pinch some pennies, go a head and get a factory take off... but I love my pro5.0.
Old 03-17-2006, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by nomadnate
the way i look at it a cam is select by the mods you have and you don't want to buy your mods by your cam or have to buy another cam later on down the road. IMO of course
Little confusing, but what I am sure you are getting at is a key word in setting your car up:

You must pick a good COMBO. Bolt ons are bolt ons, for the most part. Get longtube headers, Y-pipe/catback or duals, ported TB/LS6 intake or Fast 90/90 type setup, underdrive pulley, lid, CAI or "ram air" of some kind, possibly an electric water pump, a good tune, gears, clutch/rear end or torque converter, sticky tires...

The most obvious cam related choices are how big to go, what kind of grind/lobes to get and what gears or stall speed of converter to match it to.

Go to the internal engine section and read threads as tehy come up, read the cam guide sticky and search. Do all of this now while you are still getting bolt ons and by the time you are ready for a cam you will have a lot better idea about what you want.
Old 03-17-2006, 11:24 PM
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How do you tell if it has the Hurst shifter from the factory? And which years/models have it?
Old 03-17-2006, 11:58 PM
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The hurst is optional on the 99 and up (not sure about the 98) but even if you don't have it, you can buy it used, or new for cheaper than the other shifters, add the short shifter, and you have a pretty decent shifter for not alot of $$$ (I like mine)
As for the other mods everything looks good except for the new TB, just port your own, or send it out to get ported, save the money for a bigger one (when you need it)
As for cams, don't forget to add the cost of new rear gears to the cam (to get the most out of it) depending on what cam you end up with. You can use a hand held to tune for a cam (the Crane/Vinci comes with several cam tunes) but it costs $429, so for not alot more money you can get HP tuners, and be able to tune for whatever mods you eventually end up with, and not have to rely on some one else.
Old 03-18-2006, 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 2K2WS6TA
The hurst is optional on the 99 and up (not sure about the 98) but even if you don't have it, you can buy it used, or new for cheaper than the other shifters, add the short shifter, and you have a pretty decent shifter for not alot of $$$ (I like mine)
As for the other mods everything looks good except for the new TB, just port your own, or send it out to get ported, save the money for a bigger one (when you need it)
As for cams, don't forget to add the cost of new rear gears to the cam (to get the most out of it) depending on what cam you end up with. You can use a hand held to tune for a cam (the Crane/Vinci comes with several cam tunes) but it costs $429, so for not alot more money you can get HP tuners, and be able to tune for whatever mods you eventually end up with, and not have to rely on some one else.
Ok thanks for the input. Anyway to tell if I had the hurst or not? Does it have Hurst written on the base of the shifter? And I was going to hold off on rear end gears until I go for the 9"... I would be getting a pretty mild cam as I don't want to lose any daily driving ability...
Old 03-18-2006, 02:03 AM
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Port the TB, add a tune and cut-out to that list and 350 RWHP is VERY doable...on a manual. The hurst shifter has an 'H' on the top of it, and its not cheap plastic.


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