mct

I am planning to get set of heads and a cam for my car with full bolt ons. I want to know if my stock tranny 4L60E going to hold the power and put 3-4 k on it? or its going to get toasted straight away?

Photochop

iTrader: (74)

The tranny on my car is pretty much stock, other than a shift kit...with a tci 4400 and a big b&m cooler and deep pan on it. My car is a pretty 'big' heads/cam car, but only has 57K on it. But I KNOW I'm on borrowed time...when I drive it hard a while it starts to hesitate more on shifts. They usually start to slip severely when they're on their way out so you typically get some warning signs...but they can also get toasted quick and just neutral out...anything can happen, so good luck

mct

I won't be able to get a built tranny untill next year, so i was thinking to go cam for now so the tranny can hold the power and i will get the set of heads when am able to get the built tranny.

carado1984

tranny cooler.. shift kit.. deep pan.. change the fluid often.. otherwise youre going to burn up the clutch packs like i did on my 99 and its going to start slipping and bouncing off the rev limiter and or slipping a few thousand rpms during normal driving, then youll start to loose gears... PM ill let you know about an affordable rebuild.

WhiteKnightZ28

iTrader: (5)

I blew mine up with just a cam... but thats mostly the fault of my TC wich was slipping horribly, it was only a matter of time

ChocoTaco369

i'm beginning to understand that RPM's are a bigger factor into 4L60E's grenading than raw power. i've noticed that FI cars tend to hang onto their stock 4L60E's much longer than H/C cars, even though they are putting down similar power. why? FI cars keep stock shift points. H/C cars up their shift points. the 4L60E is rated for a max shift point of 6,000 RPM's. they're set at 5,900 RPM's from the factory.

if you want your 4L60E to last a while, leave the shift points stock. yes, i know, why cam your car and leave stock shift points? well, unfortunately, when you raise them, it becomes more than the 4L60E can handle. this will cause quick, if not immediate failure. i'd leave the shift points stock until you can afford a built 4L60E. even with stock shift points, though, you're not guaranteed anything. it just vastly increases your chances of your tranny holding the power for a while.

again, this won't help. it's not the power killing your 4L60E. it's the shift points. a 4L60E will likely hold 450rwhp with shift points at 5,900 rpm's a lot longer than it'll hold 350rwhp with shift points at 7,000 rpm's.

read this thread for more information:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/562732-effect-rpm-s-4l60e.html

again, RPM's are much more dangerous to a 4L60E than power.

mct

I Hope you get her running soon.

mct

Thanks for the valueable information, The trans always made me back off when i though of modding , but i was wondering, i know a guy with a bolt-on + sprayer car, he sprays his car day n night and his trans still didn't break up. I was planning to go with Tsp 228r and if it shifts at 6000 rpms i will be losing some top end power. I will give up of some power, because am not looking for the max power for now.

The PAT WS6

iTrader: (14)

i would invest in a nice tranny cus it will benefit u all around. the 4l60e should temp. hold ur application but something like a th350 will be money well spent. lol

gillbot

iTrader: (27)

I shift mine at 6800 with 399RWHP, I know it's gonna go though. I'll just get her towed back when it does and buy a built one.

Wnts2Go10O

iTrader: (12)

just remember that 90% of trans failures are from overheating. keep it cool, keep it alive

mct

I will get a trans cooler for sure, i will get a built 4L60E or TH350 when i get some money.

craz28

iTrader: (10)

damn it, everytime i wanna do a mod i see there is more crap i have to buy then the mod. I wanted heads/cam setup now i gotta buy a new tranny cause I know will drive it hard, I wanted headers and a y-pipe then i read i need a tune and o2 sims with that as well. is there anything cheaper then at least 1000 dollars for a mod? l

jpat1023

Yep, there is a lid, and catback.

I did headers and ory and have not got a tune yet. I am planning on it, but it has been almost 3 months now and I don't have any problems or anything. But I am leaving some power on the table and I think I am running a little rich.
Anyways, the point is, for under a $1000 you can do lid, catback, headers, ory, underdrive pully, suspension work, appearance...and I'm sure I left out something.

AK's WS6

Ahhhh, thanks you saved me some typing. That was a great thread BTW!!

ChocoTaco369

yea it all just kinda came together didn't it?

i wish people would have gone further with it. the fact that stock 4L60E's are common with FI setups and fry like scrambled eggs once you add a cam hit me like a ton of bricks randomly one day.

not saying a 450rwhp FI car can't blow a 4L60E...of course it can, but it'll probably take longer.

BLKWS.6

My friend informed me he ate his 4L60E at 30K miles (15K miles after mods and he drives like a psycho) He has a cam,juice, 4400stall, tranny cooler, but had it tuned to shift at 6800rpm. He doesnt care, has a $$ tree I think.

Camaroz

iTrader: (2)

I wish I had a cash tree

ChocoTaco369

yea, that'll do it for sure. i'm surprised ANY stock tranny held up for 15k with those mods! goes to show you that the 4L60E really is a pretty good transmission when you get right down to it. yea, it croaked, but what kind of stock automatic transmission out there would run for 15K with those kinda mods? shoot, 15k is 1-2 years of driving!

v8hunter

iTrader: (2)

Don't forget about the new 12 bolt or 9" rear you will have to buy. I have been considering a stroker, but by the time I buy the motor, tranny, rear end, and have it dyno tuned I'm up near 15K....maybe I should just get a terminator instead of having 25-30k into a car worth less than 10k.