sleeperZ96BT

iTrader: (2)

Hi all,

I hopefully will be purchasing a 2001 WS6 M6 in the immediate future and was curious what all it to run mid-10's reliably, as this will be my goals for the car. When I mean reliable I mean on a daily driven car that will run mid 10's average at the track without breaking, period, figure 5-6 track visits a year with 3-5 runs a year (please note that I know any modified car can break, but be conservative to the point where it won't be that big a risk). Figure all maintenance and repairs will be done appropriately as they come due.

Please note that I am not talking about these freaks of nature that can pull off these one of a kind type runs, I want it on a daily driven car where it just can not break. Doesn't matter to me what path you choose (H/C/N2O, Supercharger, Turbo, etc) I am just trying to gauge what kind of money I need to bank to do it.

How about an approximate investment to do it $$ wise, assuming I have it all professionally installed and what not (please be as specific as possible).

Please don't turn this into a flame war, build it like you would build it to meet the 'criteria' and respect others thoughts please.

Thanks,
Brian

*edit-I tried to search but could not find anything specific. I know a lot of guys run 10's here but it's hard to gauge what it actually cost them to do so.

not7fifteen

iTrader: (8)

Here's what'd Id say, listed by how important they are
1. Most important - A new rear, your 10 bolts going to break at 10's with a M6 - $1500
2. You're never going to hit 10's without insane power off street tires, so DR's or Slicks - $500
3. Clutch - stock clutch won't hold - $400 -??
4. Full bolt ons (full exhaust, lid, ls6 intake, free mods, etc.) - $2000
5. Power adder - be it Nitrous/blower/turbo - depends on your funds - $600-???
6. Cam or heads/cam to suit your power adder - $400 - $3000
7. Built block for more reliability or more boost/n2o...$1000-??
8. Misc.. Weight reduction/set of light wheels/aftermarket suspension $100-???
MOST IMPORTANT - after all this you will need a TUNE - $400-???

This isn't including labor...Which depending on the part, the install can cost just as much or more.
Basically how fast you go depends on how much you want to spend?

I'd say at least $10,000 to have a RELIABLE dd that can bust out a 10 at the track. Or do a budget build/self installs and I've heard of cars with $2-3K in them hitting 10's at the track with a big shot of juice....

sleeperZ96BT

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the reply-I figured for a reliable build I'd be in it for at least $10g's. I figure depending on what path I take it could run upwards of $15k for a truly reliable build on the car. I haven't spent much time under the hood of the LS1 so I figure when I have it done I would have it done by a professional, for the most part.

Reliability is what I am looking for, and I am well aware that reliability and 10's don't necessarily go hand in hand, so I am looking for as reliable as it can get!

Brian

JoeyAnderson

iTrader: (20)

It's impossible to blueprint somebody's dream setup - there are way too many variables and other things to address when building a 10 second street car, especially a daily driven one.

I'd probably go with a big cube/turbo/automatic setup if I had to meet all those requirements. But it ain't gonna be cheap.

wvaboy

iTrader: (3)

drag radials/couple hundred
12 bolt rear end/3000
new drive shaft/couple hundred
H/C/N2O/3000

basics anyway

sleeperZ96BT

iTrader: (2)

What kind of suspension work, if any, would I need?

I am guessing at least SFC's.........

What about fueling? Injectors? Fuel Pump?

I mean, realistically what does one figure I would need to build it, $15k all said and done parts/labor/misc crap?

Thanks for the replies,
Brian

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

new fuel pump, better injectors then 26s, LCA's-TQarm-SFC'S-and a few other things

EPP

iTrader: (22)

http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=540

This list may help you out. Bob

sleeperZ96BT

iTrader: (2)

Thanks very much for the list!

What do you figure the cost would be to build the car as you have described in that thread?

Brian

1WICKDZ

iTrader: (2)

12 bolt, clutch, LCAs, TA, PHB, sticky tires, H/C and mild to medium nitrous setup should be very consistent, as long as nothing breaks.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Brian, I tried sending you some quotes, but your digital configuration on your e-mail would not let me send them. Bob

sleeperZ96BT

iTrader: (2)

I pm'd you my work email address Bob. If that doesn't work, try sending them in a PM.

Thanks!
Brian

ChocoTaco369

buy a procharger D1SC from bob @ EPP, forge your internals, get a 9 inch rear, drag radials, lid/catback/true duals/longtube headers, a textralia clutch, a thunder racing "blower cam" and a tune. BAM! 10's easy and as reliable as they come. not to mention the street manners are great on a blown setup compared to N/A. of course you'll have to upgrade your fuel pump and injectors. expect this to cost you what, like $15k?

well that's what i'd do if i had the money.

Tonner

Would you happen to know the specs of the Thunder blower cam?
Thanks.

jamesSS

forced induction will get expensive, quick. id say at least your going to need a new rear end, fuel system, and suspension. i would go with a decent head cam set-up and a healthy shot of nitrous. some people have run 200hp+ shots on the stock bottom end with out problem. i would do new rod bolts just for extra insurance. sticky tires are also a must. and the ever needed driver mod should get you there no problem. id do that route till you blew the motor, then just buy a forged short block and switch everything over.

ChocoTaco369

here's the specs:
short intake duration, long exhaust duration. good cam from what i hear. it's not a very big cam, but with a blower, i wouldn't want a very big cam. if a little cam like a TR224 can give 40+rwhp on an N/A setup, i imagine this small cam will give you A LOT more on a blown setup.

Tonner

Thanks I would really like to find a cam that suits my already installed 1.8-1 rockers, I have an F1 Procharger forged internals with about 9.1 compression and use a 224/218 reverse split @ 114 lsa, and she can only manage max of 580 rwhp with 17lb of boost.

looking for that magic cam that suits the 1/4 mile also.


sorry for sidetracking the thread.

ChocoTaco369

well, i don't know a whole lot about cams, but i can tell you yours is killing you. with a blower, you'd want a cam with a longer exhaust duration than intake. yours has a longer intake duration, which is a good turbo cam but terrible for a supercharger. if you were to swap the thunder racing cam with the one you have and get a good tune, i bet you'd see an enormous horsepower increase.

7w/aswap

H/C=2,000
Intake(ls6)=400
Exhaust=1000
nitrous kit capable of 175shot=750
DRs=400
Rear=2500
clutch/flywheel/tranny=2200
tune=500

That would be all you need. The nitrous varies on your cam selection. You could possibly make a 10sec car with H/C/I only, but you will have to be one hell of a driver.

SHINER

iTrader: (18)

a reliable 10 second car??

go the turbo route.