98 WS6, running rich?
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98 WS6, running rich?
I just bought a 98 WS6 not long ago and the mods are in the sig. I don't think the 'tune' was much of a tune.
I have a couple of questions.
Why do I keep losing my passenger low beam? I just bought the second replacement today?
Why is it at LOW rpm or at stoplight idle(where the car is in drive and on brake) it idles fine but every once in a while its like, da da da da da da da blub da da. You know? And sometimes at LOW LOW rpm while at the bottom of a gear at about 40mph, it will start to almost have a hard time running. Like it will be chuggin along and what FEELS to me like a miss? The SES light is always on cuz of the headers and O2 sims so that probably wont help scanning.
I also noticed just today when I gunned it from a stop and cut out after teh shift, there was a large dark cloud of smoke in what looked to be the spot where it shifted. I haev been told flames come out of my exhaust when it shifts, how bad is that? Is that a nasty rich tune?
If it is the tune can I get a handheld like predator or EFI Live to do a pretty good job(really really far away from any dyno)?
The car seems fast as hell(compared to my old 3.8), so I wouldn't know if there was a loss of power.
Oh and I have a SLIGHT valve cover leak, that kind of sucks.
Dan
I have a couple of questions.
Why do I keep losing my passenger low beam? I just bought the second replacement today?
Why is it at LOW rpm or at stoplight idle(where the car is in drive and on brake) it idles fine but every once in a while its like, da da da da da da da blub da da. You know? And sometimes at LOW LOW rpm while at the bottom of a gear at about 40mph, it will start to almost have a hard time running. Like it will be chuggin along and what FEELS to me like a miss? The SES light is always on cuz of the headers and O2 sims so that probably wont help scanning.
I also noticed just today when I gunned it from a stop and cut out after teh shift, there was a large dark cloud of smoke in what looked to be the spot where it shifted. I haev been told flames come out of my exhaust when it shifts, how bad is that? Is that a nasty rich tune?
If it is the tune can I get a handheld like predator or EFI Live to do a pretty good job(really really far away from any dyno)?
The car seems fast as hell(compared to my old 3.8), so I wouldn't know if there was a loss of power.
Oh and I have a SLIGHT valve cover leak, that kind of sucks.
Dan
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When you replace the headlight bulb what kind of bulb are you using? Some bulbs you can not touch the bulb with your bare hand or it will blow relatively soon like you are describing.
It sounds like you need a real tune (not a handheld version) to address the issues with the headers and o2 sensors as well as to see what your timing and fuel curves are set at.
As far as the valve cover leak thats a relatively straight foward fix, get a new valve cover gasket.
It sounds like you need a real tune (not a handheld version) to address the issues with the headers and o2 sensors as well as to see what your timing and fuel curves are set at.
As far as the valve cover leak thats a relatively straight foward fix, get a new valve cover gasket.
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Foudn the headlight glitch, the prongs lose the connection if I hit bumps, mayeb I can get some conductive silicone or whatever its called or do something to keep the connection firm.
I'll have to just drive down to a dyno I suppose.
Thanks!
Dan
I'll have to just drive down to a dyno I suppose.
Thanks!
Dan
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Originally Posted by hurley_21_07
Foudn the headlight glitch, the prongs lose the connection if I hit bumps, mayeb I can get some conductive silicone or whatever its called or do something to keep the connection firm.
I'll have to just drive down to a dyno I suppose.
Thanks!
Dan
I'll have to just drive down to a dyno I suppose.
Thanks!
Dan
Yea I was just about to suggest that. Everyonce in a while my passenger low beam does the same thing. Hasn't done it for while now.
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Definetly replace the plugs and check your wires...plugs are so cheap if you go with ngk tr55's and they are proven as reliable plugs. I change my plugs every 20k just for good maintenance. Also check your vacuum hoses for good connections and from your lid all the way to the throttle body as well.
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Thanks guys, I'm knowledgable with LS1's to a point, but there is a lot to learn when it comes to little problems. I will get new plugs. I do think tht is one issue, it seems like it could run better you know?
I suppose maybe I shouldn't race it with the new plugs, would that help not fouling?
Yeah the chug is exactly what I was talkign about right in high gear just putzin.
You guys are awesome.
I will update!
Dan
I suppose maybe I shouldn't race it with the new plugs, would that help not fouling?
Yeah the chug is exactly what I was talkign about right in high gear just putzin.
You guys are awesome.
I will update!
Dan
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Well I got the drivers side changed. HOW DO I GET TO THE PASSENGER ONES?!!?!
Seems to run a BIT better. When I wtch my speedo at WOT, it seems sooo much slower than the 0-60 runs of STOCK LS1's on here. I think it took me about 6-7 seconds to get to 60 from a stop. Anything else I should check? Or is it likely that the really fucked spark plugs are on teh passenger side, still unchanged?
It's weird that it seems to run fine and haul ***, just seems slower than it should be.
Dan
Seems to run a BIT better. When I wtch my speedo at WOT, it seems sooo much slower than the 0-60 runs of STOCK LS1's on here. I think it took me about 6-7 seconds to get to 60 from a stop. Anything else I should check? Or is it likely that the really fucked spark plugs are on teh passenger side, still unchanged?
It's weird that it seems to run fine and haul ***, just seems slower than it should be.
Dan