Launching 101
09-24-2007, 06:04 PM
#1
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Launching 101 i have a 98 formula m6 and im trying to figure out the best way to launch... sidestepping has thus far been the most effective... but not quite what i am hoping for... i just got the car about a month ago and i figure you guys who have had them for a while would know a good rpm range, clutch release etc.
mods are slp lid and true duals (until winter comes) tires are pretty new
mods are slp lid and true duals (until winter comes) tires are pretty new
09-24-2007, 07:51 PM
#2
i launch around 3k it depends on where you are the street or the track or what tires you have and if they are warm or not. i would just try dumping the clutch at 3k and then just go from there and see. i also have aftermarket lower controll arms that help with launching.
09-24-2007, 07:59 PM
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I launch in the 3k-ish range. I do not sidestep it.. I do release VERY quickly tho.
If you get a set of tires on the rear an keep sidestepping youre going to wind up w/probs.
All my car did was spin w/stock tires if I side stepped it.
A clutch, bottle, and DR's later the 10 bolt said "I quit".
Im sure even w/stock tires an no bottle eventually the 10 bolt would give.
LCR's were replaced the same time as my 10 bolt and I gota say my 2ng gear wheelhop is gone. Even if you keep the 10 bolt LCR's are the best money spent for the price imo.
If you get a set of tires on the rear an keep sidestepping youre going to wind up w/probs.
All my car did was spin w/stock tires if I side stepped it.
A clutch, bottle, and DR's later the 10 bolt said "I quit".
Im sure even w/stock tires an no bottle eventually the 10 bolt would give.
LCR's were replaced the same time as my 10 bolt and I gota say my 2ng gear wheelhop is gone. Even if you keep the 10 bolt LCR's are the best money spent for the price imo.
09-24-2007, 09:09 PM
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[/QUOTE]Even if you keep the 10 bolt LCR's are the best money spent for the price imo.[/QUOTE]
Get the relocation brackets also. They helped a ton. That was with the stock control arms too! I'm still learning to launch myself. I say some ET street Radials would be a necessity.
Good luck!
Get the relocation brackets also. They helped a ton. That was with the stock control arms too! I'm still learning to launch myself. I say some ET street Radials would be a necessity.
Good luck!
09-25-2007, 05:58 AM
#5
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on dragradials/slicks i launch about 4500-5000 and slip the clutch.. thet gets me under 2.0sec 60f
on normal tyres.. i just cant get it to stop spinnign so i just slipš the clutch around 2k and dont go wot until 2nd gear
on normal tyres.. i just cant get it to stop spinnign so i just slipš the clutch around 2k and dont go wot until 2nd gear
09-26-2007, 12:54 PM
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2002 M6, rev to 2K dont dump just out a lil to get a good roll, then go WOT. when done eliminates spinnage. not sure if this is saving my time but im not spinning and no wheel hop, etc. my $0.02
09-26-2007, 01:09 PM
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Depends on if your running and type of sticky tire or just street tires. I know on mine with street tires if i drop it above 2.5 or so i will just spin. And anything below 2k will just bog out. I would do what kokingSS said, basically the same thing i do.
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09-26-2007, 01:20 PM
#8
when I got rolling before going wot with a head and cam m6 ss I lost .035 compared to just boining them through first and hooking second. In my case with the tires spinning at over 4k in first and waiting until it hooks to hit second was by far the best. Even with the tires spinning they still propelled the car faster than if I had done anything else. I was also on nt555r's with about 17psi.
05-23-2008, 12:59 AM
#10
05-23-2008, 09:25 AM
#11
street tires + streetable clutch + 10 bolt = side step at track
drag radials or slicks + 10 bolt = slip clutch at track from up to 4k rpm
good clutch meant for track + 9 inch + drag radials or slicks = 4-5k dump
10 bolts don't like traction and a lot of power, always keep in mind the traction conditions you are facing. Keep this in mind, the closer you are to hooking like glue, the more you would rather kill your clutch than your rear end with slipping as a slipping clutch still gets you home, a broken rear requires a tow. Unless you have a 9 inch rear, then abuse the hell out of the rear and preserve the clutch.
For the street, despite being cammed, I can launch off idle every time, I did it with the stock cam too. Once the clutch bites, I usually give it gas.
drag radials or slicks + 10 bolt = slip clutch at track from up to 4k rpm
good clutch meant for track + 9 inch + drag radials or slicks = 4-5k dump
10 bolts don't like traction and a lot of power, always keep in mind the traction conditions you are facing. Keep this in mind, the closer you are to hooking like glue, the more you would rather kill your clutch than your rear end with slipping as a slipping clutch still gets you home, a broken rear requires a tow. Unless you have a 9 inch rear, then abuse the hell out of the rear and preserve the clutch.
For the street, despite being cammed, I can launch off idle every time, I did it with the stock cam too. Once the clutch bites, I usually give it gas.
05-23-2008, 01:57 PM
#15
side stepping= clutch on the floor, hold it down with just the side of your big toe. To release clutch, instead of pulling foot back, slip foot off of cluth, and allow the clutchpedal to freely release. AKA step your clutch foot to the side of the clutch or "side step the clutch"
05-23-2008, 02:08 PM
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I find it funny how so many people have difficulty "doing a burnout" in a manual. I used common sense and mechanics to figure it out on my own. This is my first 6 spd car and have had no problem with driving or getting the tires loose.
05-23-2008, 03:14 PM
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side stepping= clutch on the floor, hold it down with just the side of your big toe. To release clutch, instead of pulling foot back, slip foot off of cluth, and allow the clutchpedal to freely release. AKA step your clutch foot to the side of the clutch or "side step the clutch"
Oh thanks man! I learned something new today!
