Car dies when trying to test the solenoids?
#1
Car dies when trying to test the solenoids?
I was testing my solenoids a few weeks ago and I noticed that the car would bog and die when I was testing them. My system is activated via an adjustable RPM switch, an activation switch, and a WOT switch. Because of the RPM switch I had to test the system with the car on. What I did was disconnected the -3an hoses going to my nozzle and stuck the fuel hose in a two-liter pepsi bottle. The nitrous bottle was closed so I wasn't concerned about that. I set the RPM switch to 0 and started the car (seems even if the rpm switch is set to 0 the car needs to be on for the system to work, maybe wired incorrectly? i'm not sure) I started the car, no problems, activated the system, but when I manually applied the WOT switch and heard the solenoids activated, as well as watched fuel flow into my two-liter bottle. However, the car died after about 2 seconds. Did it again, same thing. At the time I figured that the fuel dumping into the bottle might have caused low pressure in the rail and made the car die, but now I'm curious and want to know if that is really what happened. Any ideas?
#2
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i dont see how that would affect it. If you are spraying a huge hit like 100-150 you may not have an adequate fuel pump to run that particular wet system. I hope you have the nozzles in otherwise you will understand quickly it was a pressure problem.
#3
I'm running a Walbro GSS340 in the tank. I had the -3an hoses disconnected from the nozzles and dumped in the soda bottle. So I was correct to assume it was the drop in pressure in the rail that was causing it to die?
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Do you have the jets or nozzel in or just the ends of the fuel line? If so, then its just dumping fuel and draining the rail. When its installed the jets only allow what goes thru it, keeping the rest of the fuel in the rail. It looks like youre just draining it.
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2 problems.
1- although probably not related to your issue, never set the window switch to '0'. that can burn it up, set it to something real low like 100 rpms, it will still do what you want.
2.- testing the solenoid like that is great, but with no jet, you are essentially opening up a .1875 hole (if you have a .1875 fuel solenoid) into your fuel line, which will give it a big pressure drop, which is probably why your car stalled. I'm surprised you didn't get a lean bank 1 & 2 code too. Next time you test it, just use the nozzle with the jet, spraying into your pepsi bottle.
edit: (like Mike96Z suggested)
Vinny
1- although probably not related to your issue, never set the window switch to '0'. that can burn it up, set it to something real low like 100 rpms, it will still do what you want.
2.- testing the solenoid like that is great, but with no jet, you are essentially opening up a .1875 hole (if you have a .1875 fuel solenoid) into your fuel line, which will give it a big pressure drop, which is probably why your car stalled. I'm surprised you didn't get a lean bank 1 & 2 code too. Next time you test it, just use the nozzle with the jet, spraying into your pepsi bottle.
edit: (like Mike96Z suggested)
Vinny
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Vin is correct.....your killing your fuel pressure....probably to a few cyls near the fuel rail adaptor... Use your diagnostic lights on your RPm window switch...it will tell you when the solenoids are turning on/off.... http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...W%20SWITCH.pdf