FiFdYnUtz

iTrader: (12)

ok guys, i have the mods in my sig and have been planning to do H/C over this coming summer, then drivetrain mods (rear/trans), and then a nice wet plate kit (harris or nitrous outlet) with a 150 shot...but lately i have been thinking that it would be much easier to just jump to the spray and do h/c and drivetrain in the future...

with the kit i plan to get a good tune on the juice, window switch/lean shutoff switch, etc and i already have a wideband...

so my questions are:

What kind of 1/4 gains could i realisitically expect to gain with a well done 150 wet plate setup?

Could my drivetrain handle it for long at the track generally? and if not, what should i do to eas its stress? smaller shot? have it come on later (not from a stop) etc?

any opinions/help is greatly appreciated, thanks!!!

domestic disturbance

iTrader: (35)

with your mods you havem spray would really bring it alive!!!! you have about the exact same setup as me, and i spray a 150, im going with the polluter cam this winter and a few other add ons... but I say you would gain close to a second in the 1/4 with a 150 shot.... But main question is do you plan on spraying any out of the whole?? If so say good bye to the stock rear end...

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

With your current mods and 150 shot... easy 10s.

FiFdYnUtz

iTrader: (12)

what would i need to do to keep my rear safe? just up the window switch rpm's to around 4k or so?

and would it be simpler and easier to just do a dry nozzle and hsw interface with maybe a fuel pump...

and last is all the tuning i would need be just taking off a couple degree's of timing for spray?

thanks very much for the responses thus far!

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

Mine is set to come on at 3k....dry shot w/ the HSW Interface is very easy...

But I think a 150 shot dry will be too big for your stock 26# injectors.

FiFdYnUtz

iTrader: (12)

see thats why i think i should get a dry plate or nozzle kit, spray 100, then when i get the drivetrain for it, bump it up to a wet kit and put the 150 on it with H/C and a good rear/trans

sound decent?

streetassasin

iTrader: (30)

A wet shot doesnt rely on the injectors for more fuel so I dont see why the stockers wouldnt work

adriangarcia404

ive seen t/a's at my local track running a 200 shot on stock rear end ,
and wokring fine,
but they dont shot the juice right off the starting line, they wait a little after,
many people mechanics that have worked on ls1's have told me a stock ls1, can handel a 150 shot like nothing,
and the rear end is pretty strong, not the best...... but strong.
i think with the 150 shot, your rear end should be fine,
but remember this is only my opion,

Mike@HSW

iTrader: (6)

You could run our dry plate with the interface to start. After you feel comfortable and have upgraded your drive train you could do one of two things. Upgrade your fuel pump and switch to a wet system or upgrade the pump and injectors. You won't need to pull any timing on a 100 shot. If you want to pull a few degrees on the 150 you could easily do that with the interface.

I would also recommend our MicroEdge controller. Not only could you set your RPM's to come on higher in the RPM band, but you could also lockout first gear to prolong the life of your rear and tranny. It comes with a **** load of other safety features as well.

Ray@Nitrous Outlet

150 HP is 150 HP...wet or dry.

If the rear will break on a wet shot it will do so also on a dry.

Sorry if I read the thread wrong but I took it as "go with a dry shot so it won't break the rear"

Nick@HSW

iTrader: (4)

I agree with Mike and Ray. If you're worried about the rear, then I would just lock it out of first gear with the MicroEDGE.

Nick

FiFdYnUtz

iTrader: (12)

that sounds like what im looking for! thanks guys!

382ssz28

iTrader: (24)

I went through what you are about to now. You can get what ever kit you want, (I went with NX Gemini 2 Wet kit for EFI 3 years ago. There are more options today.). If you're fairly stock, your motor can live with 150HP off the line for a while, the diff can, too. The trans can with the right tune. Most kits you buy today have the safeties in them, Hobbs switches, etc. Remember, you are adding HP 100 at a chunk. H/C combo can be good for a 100+ HP so what ever you do, the trans, rear end, suspension, and bottom end of your motor should be taken into concideration for the second stage of your endevour. If you go with the nitrous first, you can get away with watching your parts. Adding H/C may require better parts to hold up to the extra power: 320HP-stock, 420-450HP-nitrous, 475-550-heads/cam combo = parts upgrade. I went with the nitrous first because it was quick and easy. Then the sickness sets in. You see faster guys at the track and then $$$$$$ I GOTTA HAVE IT!!!! Have fun and keep us posted.