ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Well, I finally got around to installing my HSW plate kit in my 2002 Z28. I also got an MSD window switch to go with it. I also installed NGK TR6 plugs. Pretty much everything seemed straight forward with the instructions, etc.

For the window switch, I grounded the black wire, put the red wire to a switched power source, hooked up the white wire to the tach signal on the passenger side coil pack, and ran the ground wire from the relay on the nitrous kit to the yellow wire.

I was trying to test the system (without nitrous) by turning it on and hitting the WOT switch. I first did this with the rpms at about 1500, figuring that it should do nothing. I wasn't able to tell if it was working or not by putting my hand on the solenoids. We did this a few times and I wasn't sure. The car did pop (backfire) a couple times so I'm thinking that it was spraying a bit of fuel, but I'm not sure. Next we tried it with the rpm around 3500, but I still couldn't tell.

My next thought was to disconnect the outlet hose from the fuel solenoid, try it again, and see if fuel came out. Nothing happened at 1500 rpm or at 3500 rpm.

After this I shut the car off and was thinking that maybe I had splced the wrong wire on the coil harness, so I spliced it into the #10 white wire on the red connector for the PCM. After this I tried to start up the car again, but it would only crank. Seeing as how the only change I made was moving the wire to the computer harness, I moved it back, but it still wouldn't start. I ended up letting it sit over night and it started right up, so I'm thinking that it had flooded out.

I'm wondering if there is a good way to test the system without using the nitrous, so that I won't toast anything if I have it hooked up wrong. Can I disconnect the fuel outlet to the solenoid like I was trying, or is there a better way?

Thanks in advance guys, I can't wait to get it running correctly and for some better weather to test it out!

GMTECH4

i just used a test light in place of the noids. if your wot switch is hooked up right then the system needs to see wot and what ever your window switch is set at to turn on the noids. good luck

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

LOL, there's always a very simple solution, but I usually over think things. Thanks, dude! I'll see if I can test out the system later today and then I'll post back up.

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I used a test light and there was no power for the solenoids. I did a little diag and found that either the connection for the tach signal was bad, or I had used the wrong singal wire. I rewired it for the #10 off the PCM and it works fine now, coming on only after 3200 rpm and turning off at 6000 rpm.

Thanks for the help! Next up, I need a fire jacket and a little street testing, then some new track numbers. Something tells me the Nittos aren't gonna be enough

Nick@HSW

iTrader: (4)

Glad to see you narrowed it down to the RPM wire. If you run into anything else please be sure to get a hold of us over here and we'll get you going. Thanks.

Nick

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! I called and left a message and also sent an email, the bottle nut that came with the kit is defective and won't screw on to the bottle. My buddy's bottle nut went right on with 2 fingers, so the bottle is fine. Just wanted to look into getting another. I'll be ordering up a blow down tube kit also.

I'll let you guys know how it does on the street, track and dyno as soon as the weather clears

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Nick@HSW, someone from your customer service department got right back to me with an email. I'm gonna ship back the bottle nut for you guys to take a look at. Thanks for the quick response!