Could this be a direct result in my motor destorying itself
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Could this be a direct result in my motor destorying itself
Well here is the story a while back I rebuilt my LS1 new bearings, rings, cam, cam bearings, and seals and after my rebuild i needed a convertor put in my car, i took it to this guy who someone suggested----> Crazy D's aka Painkiller or dan as he goes by, to do the work, no big deal i get the car back a day or two later. Well the car was built to be a small shot (150) nitrous car not a huge deal right? Well I drove the car for some time without a kit on it, i raced it a few times but thats it, well come oct i put a wet kit on the car, the car made three good passes, everything worked fine. the last race i had the car hooked very hard when i went to spary it the engine made a bogging noise like it was getting flooded, i immeditaly shut the nitrous off and finish the run, when i came back around my car was knocking hard, i limped it home doing 35mph then i heard the awful noise of like tools hitting the ground. engine went i got a hole in the block. well just two days ago i finially got the motor pulled at my buddies shop turns out the knock senor was smashed between the engine block and transmission and the trans bell housing was missing two bolts and i had three holes in the block alone and one in the oil pan and my new dart heads are destroyed. So if the knock senor shorted when i lunched from being pinched could this been a direct result in my blown up motor because the timing advanced and i sparyed the car??? Pictures are below of the shitty work this guy did, and of the holes in my block.
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If the knock sensor went out it just wouldnt pull timing AFTER a problem had started, so, probably not. The knock was caused by a problem either with your motor, tune, or system. I dont see the timing being advanced because of a failed KM, although i'm definatly not an expert in tuning. Did you have a tune done, and did you pull any timing for that shot of n2o?
Last edited by evilbeef54; 01-23-2009 at 09:57 PM.
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First off, your 'tune' was the worst sounding tune I've ever heard. Your car tuned idles(I use that term lightly as you had to restart the car every 10 seconds to pull out of marios lot) worse than my car with the factory tune and a big cam.
If you were relying on the knock sensors to pull timing on spray, that was your problem..And that's probably most of the reason why it came apart.
Spraying it with the TCS on, and having the kit come on and off a few times during the pass in that video....Is the other reason it broke.
If you were relying on the knock sensors to pull timing on spray, that was your problem..And that's probably most of the reason why it came apart.
Spraying it with the TCS on, and having the kit come on and off a few times during the pass in that video....Is the other reason it broke.
#5
Well Kyle as you are learning the true shitty work was in the build or the tune. I guess that is what happenss when you take rods from how many different motors. Maybe next time you will bring your motor to a reputable builder and tuner. Next time you should maybe do your research before you go slandering someone. If I truly did pinch that harness(which I HIGHLY doubt) You would have thrown a code. But as I remember your car when it came into my shop didn't even ******* idle. I am sure that was great to drive around on a shitty tuned car. Then you get the thing tuned and beat the **** out of it spray the the thing and expect it to last forever. I guess you need a reality check. Mind you since this motor was so freshly rebuilt why was there more oil on that motor then the amount of oil an MG leaks after sitting for 2 hours. Oh yeah and beleiving the bullshit story of it didn't ground out right away is a crock of ****. When that bellhousing and block surface mated it was pinched and grounded out buddy. Therefore when your tuner tuned the car he would have found the code. Funny it took what 2 months of beating the tar out of it for your motor to go? Oh yeah AFTER you had it tuned? Like I said in my PM in Chitown I have no responsibility in this. If you wish I will fix your pinched wires.(that I probably didn't even do.) I'd also like to know how 2 bellhousing bolts mysteriously disappeared. I ran that **** up with an IR 231. I know they just didn't back out. And I KNOW for a fact that I put them in. If something would have went wrong in any way I would have caled you to discuss the problem.
See now maybe everyone has an understanding of why shops don't wanna mess with this stuff anymore. You get paid for a job and then what 6 months later now after I haven't seen the car or know where the car is or what other shops have worked on the car, now you want money back. You know as well as I do if you knew that what I did blew your motor you would be sueing. Period end of subject. But see you know that thing has been messed up from day one. If you want money out of me you are gonna have to prove that I blew your motor up. The only way that is gonna happen is if you take it to a reputable engine shop. Again like I said I know you wanna point fingers but in this instance it should not be pointed in MY direction. Also if I remmeber right originally it was a rod knock out at Doty. I told you don't drive the car. You decided to try and make a what 35 mile hike? With a rod knock. See you didn't have a window in the block initially. You had a rod knock. Sorry son but yet again this just proves even more that this is NOT my responsibility nor a reflection in any way of my shops work.
See now maybe everyone has an understanding of why shops don't wanna mess with this stuff anymore. You get paid for a job and then what 6 months later now after I haven't seen the car or know where the car is or what other shops have worked on the car, now you want money back. You know as well as I do if you knew that what I did blew your motor you would be sueing. Period end of subject. But see you know that thing has been messed up from day one. If you want money out of me you are gonna have to prove that I blew your motor up. The only way that is gonna happen is if you take it to a reputable engine shop. Again like I said I know you wanna point fingers but in this instance it should not be pointed in MY direction. Also if I remmeber right originally it was a rod knock out at Doty. I told you don't drive the car. You decided to try and make a what 35 mile hike? With a rod knock. See you didn't have a window in the block initially. You had a rod knock. Sorry son but yet again this just proves even more that this is NOT my responsibility nor a reflection in any way of my shops work.
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First off, your 'tune' was the worst sounding tune I've ever heard. Your car tuned idles(I use that term lightly as you had to restart the car every 10 seconds to pull out of marios lot) worse than my car with the factory tune and a big cam.
If you were relying on the knock sensors to pull timing on spray, that was your problem..And that's probably most of the reason why it came apart.
Spraying it with the TCS on, and having the kit come on and off a few times during the pass in that video....Is the other reason it broke.
If you were relying on the knock sensors to pull timing on spray, that was your problem..And that's probably most of the reason why it came apart.
Spraying it with the TCS on, and having the kit come on and off a few times during the pass in that video....Is the other reason it broke.
Okey first, the was wasnt tuned til after it got the convertor installed, second the car doesnt have tcs and third the kit was on a button not a WOT switch so as soon *** the car bogged i tuned the entire ntirous system off, and what happened was that when the car bogged it slowed down so once i got off it the computer read the speed was too slow and was able to shift down again. So sorry about your miss information, an no the tune has a -2 degree timing for the nitrous
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Just an FYI- having wires pinched between the bellhousing and engine is a common problem for almost every tech. If you decide you want to go built engine, just let me know. I'm in Springfield and have a nice 347 being built as we speak that I will not need. PM me if interested. I will also get you hooked up with a tuner so the chances of this happending are more far and few between.
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Well Kyle as you are learning the true shitty work was in the build or the tune. I guess that is what happenss when you take rods from how many different motors. Maybe next time you will bring your motor to a reputable builder and tuner. Next time you should maybe do your research before you go slandering someone. If I truly did pinch that harness(which I HIGHLY doubt) You would have thrown a code. But as I remember your car when it came into my shop didn't even ******* idle. I am sure that was great to drive around on a shitty tuned car. Then you get the thing tuned and beat the **** out of it spray the the thing and expect it to last forever. I guess you need a reality check. Mind you since this motor was so freshly rebuilt why was there more oil on that motor then the amount of oil an MG leaks after sitting for 2 hours. Oh yeah and beleiving the bullshit story of it didn't ground out right away is a crock of ****. When that bellhousing and block surface mated it was pinched and grounded out buddy. Therefore when your tuner tuned the car he would have found the code. Funny it took what 2 months of beating the tar out of it for your motor to go? Oh yeah AFTER you had it tuned? Like I said in my PM in Chitown I have no responsibility in this. If you wish I will fix your pinched wires.(that I probably didn't even do.) I'd also like to know how 2 bellhousing bolts mysteriously disappeared. I ran that **** up with an IR 231. I know they just didn't back out. And I KNOW for a fact that I put them in. If something would have went wrong in any way I would have caled you to discuss the problem.
See now maybe everyone has an understanding of why shops don't wanna mess with this stuff anymore. You get paid for a job and then what 6 months later now after I haven't seen the car or know where the car is or what other shops have worked on the car, now you want money back. You know as well as I do if you knew that what I did blew your motor you would be sueing. Period end of subject. But see you know that thing has been messed up from day one. If you want money out of me you are gonna have to prove that I blew your motor up. The only way that is gonna happen is if you take it to a reputable engine shop. Again like I said I know you wanna point fingers but in this instance it should not be pointed in MY direction. Also if I remmeber right originally it was a rod knock out at Doty. I told you don't drive the car. You decided to try and make a what 35 mile hike? With a rod knock. See you didn't have a window in the block initially. You had a rod knock. Sorry son but yet again this just proves even more that this is NOT my responsibility nor a reflection in any way of my shops work.
See now maybe everyone has an understanding of why shops don't wanna mess with this stuff anymore. You get paid for a job and then what 6 months later now after I haven't seen the car or know where the car is or what other shops have worked on the car, now you want money back. You know as well as I do if you knew that what I did blew your motor you would be sueing. Period end of subject. But see you know that thing has been messed up from day one. If you want money out of me you are gonna have to prove that I blew your motor up. The only way that is gonna happen is if you take it to a reputable engine shop. Again like I said I know you wanna point fingers but in this instance it should not be pointed in MY direction. Also if I remmeber right originally it was a rod knock out at Doty. I told you don't drive the car. You decided to try and make a what 35 mile hike? With a rod knock. See you didn't have a window in the block initially. You had a rod knock. Sorry son but yet again this just proves even more that this is NOT my responsibility nor a reflection in any way of my shops work.
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-2 degrees for how big of a shot? And why the HELL would you drive your car home when its knocking? I don't think knocking just magically goes away. And if your tuner didn't notice that the knock sensors were not working or setting codes, then he isn't much of a tuner. And please don't try to blame somebody else for your problems, then only gaurantee in this business, is it is gauranteed to BREAK. Did you rebuild it with stock internals?
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Not to be an ***, but why are you using an impact to drive a transmission in? Aluminum block + good impact = stripped holes in the block. Did you torque the bellhousing to 35lb ft?
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
A guide to properly torquing bolts
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
A guide to properly torquing bolts
#13
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Not to be an ***, but why are you using an impact to drive a transmission in? Aluminum block + good impact = stripped holes in the block. Did you torque the bellhousing to 35lb ft?
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
A guide to properly torquing bolts
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
A guide to properly torquing bolts
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Okey first, the was wasnt tuned til after it got the convertor installed, second the car doesnt have tcs and third the kit was on a button not a WOT switch so as soon *** the car bogged i tuned the entire ntirous system off, and what happened was that when the car bogged it slowed down so once i got off it the computer read the speed was too slow and was able to shift down again. So sorry about your miss information, an no the tune has a -2 degree timing for the nitrous
I was told it had TCS...I assumed it did because no one in their right mind would be getting on and off the throttle/kit like you did in that video.
Weird how you pedaled the car on nitrous with a shitty tune, and it took out a rod bearing....
Why did a heads/cam car with a 150 shot bog on the street?
#16
Get your facts straight i took the car to you because i wanted the convertor installed BEFORE the tune, and as far as putting different rods in it??? where the hell did you think of that sorry man the whole rotating assmebly came from the same motor, and btw i like how you tll mario that i has to takethe trans out to fix the Y-pipe, lol are you kidding me, dude your just running circles cause i found that you did a shitty *** backwards job on reinstalling my trans and last about the oil yes it had a leak lets not forget here the car wasnt even finished yet, i know it had a leak and mario as my witness along with a few other people at his shop watched me fix the leak. So think what you want but the issue at hand is that the trans was improperly installed, and i know me driving the car home was my fault thats why im not holding you responisble for the entire engine, just the trans mission job, because now i gotta buy a new harness, thats why im only asking for the money i payed you back, because the way i see it lets say the motor didnt go but i found that i was missing two bolts and had a pinched wire i would have to take the trans out and buy a new harness which is why im only asking for the money i payed you to do a job.
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I saw the car in late september or so after it was tuned. It ran like garbage. Your issue is probably in the tune.
I was told it had TCS...I assumed it did because no one in their right mind would be getting on and off the throttle/kit like you did in that video.
Weird how you pedaled the car on nitrous with a shitty tune, and it took out a rod bearing....
Why did a heads/cam car with a 150 shot bog on the street?
I was told it had TCS...I assumed it did because no one in their right mind would be getting on and off the throttle/kit like you did in that video.
Weird how you pedaled the car on nitrous with a shitty tune, and it took out a rod bearing....
Why did a heads/cam car with a 150 shot bog on the street?
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-2 degrees for how big of a shot? And why the HELL would you drive your car home when its knocking? I don't think knocking just magically goes away. And if your tuner didn't notice that the knock sensors were not working or setting codes, then he isn't much of a tuner. And please don't try to blame somebody else for your problems, then only gaurantee in this business, is it is gauranteed to BREAK. Did you rebuild it with stock internals?
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here there is no point of going back and forth,, crazy d,,. you are blaming it on the tune or build and thats bullshit,. you dont want me to start, you worked for me how long? 2 weeks, and then when you cross threaded the brakes line to the abs unit and told me other mechanic that it was ok i couldnt have such a **** up at my shop.. so dont even go there about a build.. You FUCKED up and didnt put the 2 bolts on because they were hard to get to and didnt look if there was any wires pinched either,, which any decent mechanic would look for to make sure ... you said the knock sensors will not make the car blow up, i will take that bet today,, my ss is still today and i will disconnect the knock sensors in from of you and we will spray it.. if the motor blows up you owe me a new motor , if it doesn't me and kyle will make a apology on here.. ARE YOU READY TO PUT YOUR MONEY WHERE YOUR MOUTH IS? TODAYYYYYY..BRING 10K CASH WITH YOU BECAUSE I WILL BET IT WILL BLOW UP..
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-2 degrees for how big of a shot? And why the hell would you drive your car home when its knocking? I don't think knocking just magically goes away. And if your tuner didn't notice that the knock sensors were not working or setting codes, then he isn't much of a tuner. And please don't try to blame somebody else for your problems, then only gaurantee in this business, is it is gauranteed to break. Did you rebuild it with stock internals?
whats the problem with having stock internals ? I have a single digit car with stock internals that made 50 plus passes. So who gives a **** what kind of internals they were. If everything is set right it will be fine,, as far as negative 2 degrees, thats plenty then enough if you set it up right.. I have negative 2 spraying 200 plus and its fine..
The main point is he fucked up the job,, didnt put 2 bolts on and pinched the wires, who gives a **** what kind of internals were in it, its still a fucked up job, plain and simple..