purdueranger

iTrader: (11)

I have a standalone fuel cell for the wet kit and was wondering if changing from 110 leaded in that tank to 116 octane would be worth the jump in price. I run 93 in the main tank out back. You guys think that I would get a little more timing out of her?

One thing I am thinking about is that the bulk of the fuel is 93 so the added fuel for the bottle isn't that much in comparison. The kit is a 90mm plate from Nitrous Outlet in case you guys are wondering and its a 150 shot.

chetmo

iTrader: (10)

im curious to know as well, i have a standalone coming!

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

The benifit is a little larger safety window. However, on a small hit like that, and I am assuming this is a street/strip car and not an all out race car, needing 116 over 110 is questionable. This is the exact reason, (actually one of many reasons), I don't like the stand alone fuel tank in the engine bay method of supplimental fuel. Once we get over the 150hp range do we want to be guessing on what octane we are really running in our $20k motor, not a gamble I will play with.

That's why i came up with the "Parallel" fuel system for my car. No more watered down mix that may be 94 octane or 101 octane and a 300rwhp shot, can we say good bye safety margin, maybe or maybe not? The thing is why not use the existing fuel tank? seems a likely candidate to me. On the Vettes the plastic tank is like 1/2 inch thick at the rear, so we can simpily drill and tap for a pipe thread, and there is our aux fuel system pick-up. Then an in-line Bosch pump with a new 1/2 line to the motor, add a reg and use the old 3/8 line for a new return. there are kits (Jegs or Summit) to add this return in to your filler neck. Or add dual in tank pumps and be done with it.

So I guess my point is, if you/we must run a stand alone (my 1st nitrous car 25 years ago used a "Parallel" system, lol), for what ever reason, use the highest octane fuel you can find in the stand alone. This way the odds of having a good safety margin are the greatest. If you would like to see my system for what ever reason, you can PM me.
Robert

Cliff

iTrader: (19)

I personally like a stand alone system. That is, you don't have to worry if there is a drop in fuel line pressure or if your tank pump is working at 100% of fuel needs when spraying. To me it makes since to have the stand alone and put the higher octane fuel in. 116 on a 150 shot might not be needed but again it's all about how long you want your motor to last. The more built in safety measure, the better.

ZR1 DREAMING

iTrader: (27)

I agree. And I think if you're only spraying 150 jets, the 116 isn't neccessary.

chetmo

iTrader: (10)

not to try and hijack, but I will be going to a 200 through a plate, and I have a standalone. will 116 effect anything on the 02's since its just during spray.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

I don't understand this concept? Now you have just added another pump and now you have doubled your chance of one failing or dropping pressure. You guys do understand that the only reason that stand alones are around is it was easier in the begining to do this than figure out the cars fuel system. The vast majority of the power adder cars use the stock tank and cars are going well past the 1000rwhp mark and safely. It's just a matter of knowing your fuel system and setting it up correctly.

Plus the biggest downfall is having the watered down mix of running only a small portion of your fuel as race gas IE: stand alone. If running a stand alone and needing race gas I would also suggest adding some to your main tank for ultimate safety.

Now don't get me wrong, the stand alone can be a viable option. I just want everyone to know there are now options out there that work great and the fact that safety is better if we run full race gas if needed.
Robert