Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

I ran a Harrisspeedworks setup on my car for a year or so without issue. This year I've pulled the motor and have upgraded to forged pistons and rods on a stock crank, stock head gaskets. ARP bolts throughout. Suspension is all done, LCAs, TA, SFC, STB, etc. I've got a 9" out back with 3.89's and a trak-lock.

I've decided that I will hit 10's this year. Having said that, NA the motor should put down 440-450WHP. I'm not sure the 150 will get me solidly into the 10s. So I'm considering bumping up the nitrous for the track. Is a 300 single stage shot out of the question? I've never really liked progressive systems as they're very hard on the solenoids.

I figure I need to pull another 4-5* timing at the very least (for 300HP), but what else should I be looking for?

I'm fairly well versed in HPTuners, but its been a year or so since I touched it - so I'll have to knock off a bit of rust.

Thanks for any and all suggestions.

-Eagle

Mike@HSW

iTrader: (6)

which kit of ours do you have? i would just buy another setup and run a two stage. I wouldnt just slap a 300 shot on it. Go to 200 first and up from there. What has been done to your fuel system? a single walbro pump won't be able to keep up with that amount of horsepower.

Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

Sudden impact wet kit. I've got a Racetronix in-tank pump & hotwire kit, 42# injectors and stock rails... which is probably what my biggest problem would be. So go 2 stage and run the 2nd stage off a stand alone fuel sys?

Can the system I have now flow 200HP? Think its fine to hit that in one shot off the stock rails? I've got a wideband to keep an eye on things - but really need to get my fuel pressure readings into HPTuners too to tell me whats really going on.

Thanks for your help Mike!

-Eagle

Mike@HSW

iTrader: (6)

Sudden impact single nozzles usualy run up to a 150 shot. If you do get a standalone just run both stages off of it. You could use the microedge to control both shots and it also has the lean/rich cutoff switch as well.

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

Maybe you should focus more on the car instead of adding more nitrous. 440rwhp is enough to run tens. If you can't pull that off, I'm not sure that hitting a 300shot is gonna make things any better for you.

Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

John-

I hear your point, but not sure I agree. I dyno'd the car back when it made w/320WHP NA +150 shot and ended up in the 450WHP ballpark. I was on a stock 10 bolt and Nittos @ the time. I was leaving the line @ ~2300RPM with the spray kicking in @ 2400. I was pulling 1.78 60' times, and trapping @ 117.8 max. I didn't break into the 11's that day @ the track.

I'm not willing to do any significant weight reduction on the car... I like the car the way it is.

Now I've upgraded suspension w/adjustable LCAs, PHB and TA, rear axle (moser 31 spline 9 inch good to at least 1000hp), and a monster stage 3 clutch. I need to really put a full slick on it and see what it'll do... but I'm going to run the Nittos a bit more for the start of the season.

This season I'm hoping for 440WHP NA +150HP N2O. Anywhere between 550-600WHP would be excellent. From there, its up to me to drive into the 10s.

I guess we'll have to see how it goes. I have to master the 150 shot on the new motor and see what times I can get then I'll look to upgrade it.

-Eagle

IH8FORD

iTrader: (6)

I learn something new every day.

crmartin99

iTrader: (3)

somethings wrong, a bolton stalled auto with 150 should get you solidly in the tens.

Heck there's a few guys on here running bottom 11's on a 100 with just a converter and boltons (full weight too)

If your an m6 you probably just need to stick with 150 and get some seat time.

dudeman

iTrader: (43)

[QUOTE=Eagle02;11067598]John-

I hear your point, but not sure I agree. I dyno'd the car back when it made w/320WHP NA +150 shot and ended up in the 450WHP ballpark. I was on a stock 10 bolt and Nittos @ the time. I was leaving the line @ ~2300RPM with the spray kicking in @ 2400. I was pulling 1.78 60' times, and trapping @ 117.8 max. I didn't break into the 11's that day @ the track.

i dynoed 349 rwhp n/a and with a 125 shot i ran the numbers in my sig. i think you should easily run 10s with 440rwhp and a 150 shot.

IH8FORD

iTrader: (6)

^^ this guy ran an 11.73 NA with Bolt-ons stall and DR's. The car still has manifolds. I think it dynoed like 314RWHP. So you have enough power to run a 10.

Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

hrmm, sounds like sarcasm. Thx for helping.

-Eagle

Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

I could have hit damn near that time, but on both passes that I ran 1.7x 60' I missed 4th... and trapped 109ish. I was on manifolds then too - best time was 12.04. My car was bone stock (except SFCs and LCAs) on a 150 shot. Could I have hit 11.7s? Dunno, but 11.8-11.9 I'm sure I could have.

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

Well, in an automatic car 440rwhp would be tens. Now that you have a 9" do a slick and leave near the limiter. It will run tens on motor, you don't have to agree, but it is being done. You surely don't need to add more nitrous.

Quick Sh0t xMLx

+ one billion. It sounds like the OP needs seat time. With a 9" and your suspension setup there is no reason at all for you not to be able to run 10s on the motor itself. Adding some spray will throw you in the 9s if it hooks/you can drive.

Often most people can't admit it, but it's not the cars fault it's the driver. The driver mod is the only mod you can't buy(unless you get a stalled automatic then yes you can buy it).

Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

MMMK, BUT HOLY ****! Near the limiter? Really?!! I'm LMAO'ing right now... cuz that would be sick! Limiter isn't in stone yet, but I was thinking 6800ish

It's not that I don't agree - but I was stoopid happy to have a car that ran in the 12's last time I had it at the track. I really don't have a clue what I'm in for - but if its 5500RPM side steps... I better budget a couple pairs of pants on that first trip out!

-Eagle

IH8FORD

iTrader: (6)

I helped on my second post. Really get some slicks and some more seat time and you can get into the 10,s anyway. And then spray it and go faster

Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

No, I completely agree. Like I said in the post above this one... this is hands down the fastest car I've driven. On the spray before it was ridiculous.

Seriously I can't imagine leaving near the limiter, hooking AND riding it out down the track... let alone in the spray. I'm I right in thinking that a limiter launch is basically side stepping it and nail the skinny pedal?!?

Good lord, I have some research to do... here I go showing how nub I am to this level of driving - but how the hell does one learn to launch like that?

-Eagle

Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

It's cool man, I'm just looking for honest opinions. I have no idea what I'm in for on a 440WHP motor and 150 shot... I'm just glad I've put the money into making sure it's done right!

-Eagle

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

For the amount you are looking to spray hitting all 300 out of the box and getting the car to bite will be tricky. You beter have the suspension working to perfection. If running the right Solenoids like our Nitrous OUtlet solenoids using aprogressive is no problem. OUr solenoids are built for the abuse. So with that being said with the right products using a progressive is no problem.

Another option would be a dual stage set up. This would break up the shot letting you get out of the box and up on the tire before bringing in the next stage.

Steping from a 150 to a 300 shot you need to have the right products and info. 150 is a cake walk compared to 300.

There are only two options I would concider for the Horsepwer level. Directport or our dual stage plate system. With a direcport you have the best option of individual cylinder tuning and delivery. If you race aclass that does not allow a directport or simply do not want a directport the only thing I would trust is our plate system. Our plate system is proven to deliver at those HP levels.

If you need any guidence let me know. High Horse applications are where we shine the best!
Dave