z289899

What all do I need to put a 150 shot on my car besides the kit? Am I going to need a new fuel system yet, or injectors? Plugs? Obviously a throttle switch and a window switch. Anything else?
Also what type/brand (dry) kit is the best in your opinions?

Thanks
Nick

silverTA

i used to spary 150 wet kit (NX)in my old 98 z for a year never had a proplem

silverTA

i used to spary 150 wet kit (NX)in my old 98 z for a year never had a proplem

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

On a 150, I would recommend an addition to your fuel system, its soo much safer and thats cheap insurance...Walbro 340m intank 255l pump...$120, a blown piston ring land, chunked valve etc....lots o cash!
I like NX, and now am switchign over to the NXL. I was running a 175 shot, wet, with the Walbro pump, and man does it pull!
Wet, no need for inj, but if you go Dry yes you will need larger than 28's!
Window switch if you want to cut the flow during shifts etc...kits come with the WOT switch, a blow down tube and pressure fitting to be NHRA legal, a heater if I may suggest one, very nice addition. TR6 plugs, gapped about .035-38. And a splash of race gas!

z289899

Well the reason I am asking about dry kits is that I heard they are a lot safer than a wet kit. I am nowhere near experienced with the funny stuff and don't want to blow my motor if something goes wrong.

z289899

Do you guys agree with that? I mean that a dry kit is a lot safer than a wet kit?

z289899

ttt anybody?

Assassin

iTrader: (3)

no dude, wet is allways the best, you can go 100 dry with the ls1's and its not safer just chaper, the ls1 can compensate the fuel due to the maf, but not too much, since your a beginner, maybe the 100 dry would be good, now that I've been playing with this stuff for many years, I would have went direct port the first time on my ls1 because easy and fast dont usually go in the same sentence, the 100 dry will give you your jolly's though, will get your car in the 12's maybe even 11's, all about havin fun!

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

I disagree with Dry is safer. With Dry you are relying on the MAF to read the dense chanrge and add fuel, your relying on your injectors to not be over 80% IDC, if they are then the fuel will become heated going in and will contribute to KR, or detontation! And theres always the "I dont like Dry!"
DP, or wet kit, run a 125hp shot wet and you be there.
Although your TR55 will handle Nitrous I would recommend the TR6s gapped at around .040 depending on shot. And a splash of race gas never hurt.

z289899

So the wet kit is actually safer, what about the direct port? The only thing is I am not too sure I want to be tapping into my intake with out having a spare one laying around or something. Iwould hate to screw something up like that. That is why I was sort of looking at a MAF plate system or something like that, but this is going to be after, LT's, H/C, etc. So I will do a lot of research before then and see what route I want to go.
Thanks
Nick