BlutVonSchwachen

iTrader: (7)

Im in the middle of installing my first kit on my lt1, got a few questions:

1. I want to get my fuel feed by T'ing into the fuel line rather than using the test port. Which line do I cut and what size T do I need to get from the Auto store?

2. How are you guys routing your blow down tubes? Im installing my bottle in the t-top bin area, is the best route just to drill another water drain hole and aim straight down, trim off the excess tubing or what?

DC Motorsports

Why cut the fuel line when you can just come off the service port?

Thats pretty much correct.

01Z28M6

What I did on my 95 LT1 was to run a line from the service port to a four port fuel block mounted on the ds fender. That way there was nearly no weight hanging on the fuel rail and I had 3 new ports for a pressure switch, gauge and feed for the wet side of the nozzle.

If you're looking to TEE into the plastic feed line coming from the tank somewhere - don't do it. The line isn't designed to be cut or spliced. Basically once the plastic lines are cut they need to be replaced. The service port on the fuel rail is a little fragile but it is the best option. With a little engineering you will gain that service port back again with options.

As for the blow down; when going through the floor use a bulkhead adapter. My Zex blow down kit came with one. It makes for a tidy exit wound through the floor pan.

BlutVonSchwachen

iTrader: (7)

Tried looking for a multi-port block, but couldnt find anything at the local auto stores?

Couple more questions now that I am further into it:

Without the block, where is the best place to install the fuel safety pressure switch? Im assuming inbetween the fuel inlet source and the solenoid right?

I have the Nitrous Outlet LT1 plate kit, 58mm throttle body. When I try to put it all back together it seems my throttle body is hitting the thermostat housing, not allowing the left bolts to line up to the manifold. Not quite sure what to do about this... if that darn sensor wasnt there it'd be alright... any ideas?

How is everyone mounting up the nitrous and fuel solenoids? I have my main feed line coming up from the driver side under carriage, going up behind the engine to the passenger side and the fuel solenoid on the driver side. Cant seem to find a good mounting spot to mount everything up to.

When setting up the jetting, do I just place the jet in the fitting on the plate? Nitrous side only or fuel too?

Im starting to setup my switch panel, so far im up to 5 switches and two buttons. Ive seen a few people wiring Y connections, and was wondering if I could some what do the same such as y'ing all my grounds together to have just one master wire actually making a ground to the chassis, or would that be considered to much restriction?

01Z28M6

This might give you some ideas.

As for making a single common ground; the solenoids on my system are activated by completing the ground. I think when you begin wiring things up, and begin adding components a single common ground won't work. Nitrous installations are very fluid and there are many ways to skin the same cat.

As for the interference problem with the TB and the thermo housing; if you bought a plate that was supposed to work then I would think Nitrous Outlet will be able to get you straight with a single phone call.

BlutVonSchwachen

iTrader: (7)

Closed on weekends.

01Z28M6

BTW, with the LS1 engine bay the perfect mounting point for the solenoid(s) would be on the frame driver side. It is below the exhaust manifold direct heat and the only accessible open spot. I don't have a picture of it but can shoot one if you want it.

BlutVonSchwachen

iTrader: (7)

Trying to keep the solenoids up top, visible and all. Cars half show half go. Ill figure something out once I get ahold of Dave and find out whats going on with my TB.

The common ground thing I was talking about isnt for the solenoids, just for the in-cab switches. All the actualy components will have their own ground. I was thinking just hooking all the grounds together through the switches to reduce the amount of wiring mess that I will have to have going to the panel.

What about my pressure switch, can ya help me out there? Trying to get everything figured out and done so I can kill myself trying to install the mallory which im not at all looking forward to

01Z28M6

Yes, I think a single ground would be fine for the switches and lights but make it 14 awg if possible. If you end up with a lot of wires going to ground it may be a problem splicing them all together. Personally instead of running a single wire (I use the fuse block) for ground or power I'd just make it two while at it.

As for the FPSS location; you might want to make it the first connect after the initial TEE from the fuel source. Just a word on the fuel safety switch; mine caused a raft of problems and I bypassed it. With the new lean shut down switch from DynoTune there's not much need for a FPSS any more.

As for the Mallory (hyfire 685?); it isn't all that tough. It's such a cool and useful thing to have, well worth the effort.

prostreet67

Mine seem to go on fine but i bought the kit used so had to make my own solenoid bracket for now, if this helps
but i put my bottle on the tunnel tanks to nitrodave! oh and dave sweet switch panel its nice.